The State of the Onions

Cooks who value well-flavored foods and robust home-style cooking simply can’t get along without onions. As a result, the onion is often taken for granted.

It pays to use it properly, though. For instance, an onion salad usually requires a sweet onion for the best taste, but any onion will do if soaked in ice water, then blotted with paper towels. When onion (or garlic) is slow-cooked--baked or cooked in broth or oil, it doesn’t matter--even the strongest variety loses most of its pungency and becomes sweet.

Fortunately, at this time of year new-harvest onions are available, and you have much less risk of getting a rank old onion that’s been held in storage for months. Purchase onions that are firm and perfectly dry with no soft spots or green sprouting tops. Don’t be tempted to buy more than you can use during a two-week period--the refrigerator drawer is not the equal of the old-time root cellars that held vegetables through the winter months with little deterioration. (It does help to remove the onions from their plastic storage bags before refrigerating them.)

The recipes that follow each use the onion in different ways. Stuffed Onions With Garlicky Spinach features small onions with a robust filling. In Spiced Rice With Onions, Raisins and Red Pepper, an onion is quickly simmered in spiced broth so that it keeps its texture. Sweet and Sour Red Onion Marmalade With Sage cooks ever so slowly, transforming the onions into a wonderful condiment.

Most great-tasting vegetables are best cooked at the last minute, but this one is an exception; the onions can be precooked as much as two days in advance. However, it’s best to prepare the spinach filling the day of serving because the flavors of all the ingredients, the spinach included, intensify on standing. Ring any platter with these onions, which go well with beef, lamb, pork, poultry or fish.

STUFFED ONIONS WITH GARLICKY SPINACH

2 quarts salted water

4 small (4-ounce) onions, peeled, tops left on

1 pound young spinach, stems removed

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

4 medium cloves garlic, minced

3 anchovy fillets, washed, blotted dry, finely chopped

Salt, pepper

1 to 1 1/2 cups chicken broth or stock

Bring salted water to boil in large pot. Cut off upper quarter of each onion and reserve to make lids. Using melon baller, scoop out flesh from onion bottoms, leaving shell about 1/3-inch thick. Simmer lids and bottoms, covered, until just tender but still intact, about 4 minutes. Remove from pot with slotted spoon. Reserve cooking water. Drain onions on paper towels, setting bottoms upside down.

Bring water back to boil. Add spinach leaves, using wooden spoon to push into water. Cook minute, then drain spinach. Do not press out liquid.

Heat oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic and stir-fry, taking care not to burn, until fragrant and golden, about 10 seconds. Add spinach and anchovies. Increase heat to high. Using tongs or fork, toss to distribute garlic and anchovies. Cook until heated thoroughly, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Stuff onion bottoms with spinach mixture and cover with lids. Using fork, arrange spinach to be visible around edge of lid. Arrange onions in single layer in shallow skillet that fits onions closely. Add broth to come halfway up sides of onions. Bring to boil. Reduce to simmer, cover and cook until heated through, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove onions with slotted spoon and serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

This rice dish tastes rich although it’s extremely low in fat. It can be served hot, cold as a salad or at room temperature on a buffet table and goes well with simply prepared meats, poultry or fish. It can be made up to two days in advance.

SPICED RICE WITH ONIONS, RAISINS AND RED PEPPER

1 1/4 cups long-grain rice

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon honey

1 medium Spanish onion, diced 1/2-inch

1 1/4 to 1 3/4 cups chicken broth

2 to 3 tablespoons curry powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 sweet red pepper, diced 1/4-inch

Salt

Cook rice according to package instructions but without salt or fat.

Heat olive oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add honey and diced onion. Stir-fry until heated through, about 2 minutes. Add 1 1/4 cups broth, curry powder, cinnamon, cumin and raisins. Simmer uncovered until onion is just tender, about 5 minutes.

Stir in rice. Heat through, adding more broth as necessary to keep mixture moist. Stir in red pepper. Heat 1 minute. Adjust seasonings to taste.

To serve hot, reheat gently in skillet or in microwave oven if needed, adding more broth or water to moisten rice as necessary. Makes 6 servings.

This piquant mix of sweet - and - sour red onions is extremely versatile, appealingly delicious and low in fat. The acid and sage in the marmalade make it especially complimentary to fish and game. Adding some of the oil after the onions are cooked gives the marmalade an unexpected richness. Serve it warm as a thin garnish on grilled or roasted meats, poultry, game or fish, sprinkled with chives if desired, or as a cold condiment with cold cuts or spread on sandwiches.

SWEET-AND-SOUR RED ONION MARMALADE WITH SAGE

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

4 medium red onions, cut julienne

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

5 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup water

1/2 teaspoon rubbed dried sage or 2 teaspoons fresh sage, minced

1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives, optional

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over high heat. When hot, add onions, salt and pepper. Cook over high heat until lightly browned, about 8 minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking or burning.

Add sugar, red and balsamic vinegars and water. Simmer gently, uncovered, over low heat until mixture is thick and liquid has evaporated, about 25 to 30 minutes. Stir in remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil and sage. Adjust seasonings to taste. Sprinkle with chives before serving. Makes 2 3/4 cups.