Glimpses From a Greek Isle

Legend has it that after the sun god Helios wed Rhodos, daughter of Poseidon, he was so overwhelmed by her beauty that he promised to create an island equally as lovely.

The island of Rhodes has managed to retain much of its legendary beauty, in spite of a few Miami Beach-style hotels and its reputation as the most cosmopolitan resort in Greece. Rhodes’ classic beauty rewards the sojourner afoot: mountaintop monasteries and traditional villages, a fantastic castle and a preserve for butterflies.

Begin with a walk in the town of Rhodes, situated on the northernmost tip of the island. The old town is a walled city dominated by the Castle of the Knights of St. John, who turned the city into a fortress during their occupation from AD 1309 to 1522. This outpost of Christendom included a 100-room castle and surrounding fortress: moats, drawbridges, huge watchtowers and massive walls. The citadel itself survived the long Turkish siege of 1522 (though the city surrendered), as well as three centuries of Turkish occupation, before getting blown apart in 1856 when a nearby ammunition depot exploded.

The Italians, who had coveted the isle since Caesar’s day, undertook a massive restoration effort beginning in the early 1900s. They had planned to use Rhodes as a seat of government, but didn’t finish their castle project and assorted public buildings until the beginning of World War II. Thus, the Italians never really enjoyed the fruits of their labor.

The restored castle is also an archeology museum. Highlights are the Hellenistic and Byzantine mosaics taken from the island of Kos and from elsewhere in the Mediterranean. The castle is open all day, Tuesday through Sunday.

For the best look at Gothic Rhodes, however, and a walk you’ll long remember, plan a journey around old Rhodes town atop the castle walls. The 2 1/2-mile circuit of the battlements offers grand views of Byzantine, Mediterranean and Moslem architecture, as well as the island’s green interior and the surrounding Aegean Sea.

Wall-walking is permitted only by guided tour. Walks begin in front of the Palace of the Knights on Mondays and Saturdays at 2:45 p.m. Be sure to arrive early because castle doors close five minutes after departure time and the twice-weekly tours are the only way you can walk the ramparts.

Once you’ve walked the city, you’ll want to hike the country. Just a few miles out of town to the east is Rodini Park, a woodsy area with gentle trails and a streamside restaurant conveniently situated for post-hike refreshment.

Fifteen miles out of town is the Valley of Petaloudes (butterflies), a nature preserve operated by the Greek government. It’s a fairyland: countless orange butterflies are attracted to the valley by the sweet resin of the storax tree, which is used to make frankincense.

In repose, the black-and-yellow-striped butterflies are well-camouflaged and look, from a distance, like dark leaves. When stirred, they fill the air with a golden glow.

Alas, too much stirring--in the form of clapping, snapping, shouting visitors--began to hurt the insect’s population. While European Community scientists study the problem, visitors are asked to walk quietly through the reserve.

A trail leads through the butterfly preserve, crisscrossing a stream over bamboo bridges. Heading out of fairyland and into the forest is a rocky path leading to Kalopetra (good rock) Monastery. You can meditate in the monastery’s small chapel as well as enjoy the panoramic view from the aerie heights.

Another pleasant woodsy walk begins at Epta Piges (seven springs). You can wander among pine and plane trees, then eat at the inexpensive restaurant sitting right next to a rushing stream.

A few miles from Seven Springs is the little coastal village of Kolimbia, which overlooks a romantic sandy beach. The huge boulders framing the picture postcard scene tumbled to water’s edge from nearby Mt. Zambiko. The hike to the top of the 1,070-foot, chapel-crowned mountain is a good one.

The trail head, half a mile up the road from the beach, is marked with crosses, suggesting that this is not merely a hike, but a pilgrimage to a holy place. According to island tradition, if an island woman has trouble having children, she treks to the church atop Zambiko, spends the night praying, then eats some candlewick. If she later bears a child, tradition dictates that baby boys be named Zambiko and baby girls Zambika. (Proof that this pilgrimage works seems to be the large number of Zambikos and Zambikas on Rhodes.) Anyway, it’s an hour’s climb to the summit, where you’re rewarded with spectacular island and Aegean views.

Perhaps the most ambitious Rhodes ramble begins at the village of Embona, nestled among olive groves and vineyards on the west side of the island. Villagers are known for their fine red and white wines, as well as for their dancing--they are said to be the best on Rhodes.

Towering over Embona is Mt. Atavyros. A shadeless, three-mile ascent takes you to the 3,985-foot summit for a grand panoramic view of Rhodes. Locals suggest starting up the trail in the dark and arriving at the top in time to watch the sun rise over the island known as “Bride of the Sun.”

Castle, Valley of the Butterflies, Mt. Zambiko Trails Where: Island of Rhodes, Greece. Distance: 1-6 miles round trip. Terrain: Rugged island interior is mountainous, green, dotted with traditional villages. Highlights: Wall-walking around a castle, a butterfly preserve, a mountain pilgrimage. Degree of difficulty: Easy to moderate. For more information: Contact the Greek National Tourist Organization, 611 West 6th St. Suite 2198, Los Angeles 90017, (213) 626-6696.