Texas Pride Blooms in San Antonio

Texans are hardly noted for their reserve when the subject of the state, its people and their accomplishments arises. But when the bravado begins about this lovely city and its virtues, listen well, since most of it is true.

Deep in the heart of most Texans, there’s a tender spot for two pieces of real estate: the town, ranch or hardscrabble stretch of prairie where they were raised . . . and San Antonio. At the core of this affection is the city’s rich heritage, a strong link binding all natives to Davy Crockett, Jim Bowie, Sam Houston, the Alamo, Spain, Mexico and a history more colorful and romantic than one finds anywhere else in the state. Besides that, the place is downright gorgeous.

Founded in 1731 as a mission-outpost of the Spaniards, it became a pawn between, first, Spain, and after Mexico’s independence, the Mexican army and American soldiers in Texas. Everything came to a head with a 13-day siege and fierce bombardment of San Antonio’s Alamo in the winter-spring of 1836, causing its fall to the 4,000-man army of Mexico’s General Santa Anna in early spring. Crockett, Bowie and 187 other soldiers died to the man.

On April 21, 46 days after the Alamo fell, Texans and American volunteers led by General Sam Houston routed Santa Anna’s army, giving birth to the Republic of Texas. It became a state in 1845.

Apart from its colorful history, the San Antonio River weaves through the city to create its renowned River Walk, lined with cypress, elms, oak, mulberries and lush flowering shrubs. Little wonder that even non-Texans, after a visit here, tend to get a bit misty-eyed with the first strains of “San Antonio Rose.”

Unlike many cities of the Southwest, San Antonio has cherished and preserved its Mexican heritage. Yet it is still a Tex-Mex town at the core, with half a dozen roadhouse honky-tonks where one may have a go at the Texas two-step with boot-scootin’ urban cowboys and their Jordache-clad partners.

How long/how much? San Antonio is almost a nonstop festival town, with something going on every month of the year, so give it a minimum of three days. We found lodging costs moderate and dining very reasonable by any standards.

Getting settled in: Hotel Menger, beside the Alamo, opened in 1859 and has been a part of the town’s history since 23 years after its neighbor fell. Recently remodeled, the Menger fairly shines in its “new” 19th-Century decor. Robert E. Lee rode his horse into the lobby, and General Grant hoisted a few in its storied bar, where Teddy Roosevelt also recruited his Rough Riders. Carrie Nation even took an ax to the place during her crusade against the demon rum.

There’s a central pool-patio and a mix of bedroom styles ranging from Victorian to early 20th Century. The restaurant serves fine food in a colonial setting.

Just around the corner, the Crockett Hotel is another landmark that has also just been spruced up. There’s an adobe-colored atrium, a rooftop Jacuzzi and sun deck with views of the Alamo and city, and another outside pool at ground level. Ernie’s Bar & Grill is a renowned local hangout.

La Quinta Inn, just across Market Square, is one of a nationwide motel chain headquartered locally. Each La Quinta is built in the Mission style, and this one is simple yet neat and very convenient. No food is served, but there’s free coffee anytime and plenty of restaurants across the street in the old market.

Regional food and drink: The first fajitas were served in a San Antonio restaurant, and few can pass on fajitas al carbon : strips of charcoal-grilled skirt steak served sizzling with separate dishes of guacamole, hot salsa, grilled onions and tortillas, the latter for making your own tacos. Almost any Mexican dish is available here, plus the good old Texas favorites of chili, chicken-fried steak and catfish. Lone Star is the local suds, and we welcomed it at a sidewalk cafe after a hard day of walking.

Good local dining: Tomatillos Cafe & Cantina (3210 Broadway) is a huge place with several rooms, always decorated madly for any festival of the year. The menu is an endless spread of Mexican dishes, and the tortillas are made fresh before your eyes in the large dining room. Tomatillos won the town’s Restaurant Owners’ Assn. prize for the best margaritas in the city, and the bartenders delight when asked the recipe.

Tomatillos’ menu runs the gamut from the combination Mexican dinners (around $4.50) to more imaginative pollo al mojo de ajo (chicken breast sauteed in garlic butter and spices), served with rice and beans for $5.95.

Little Red Barn (1902 S. Hackberry) is another far-from-intimate place with 11 rooms, all painted in fire-engine red, serving more than 1,000 steaks a day, including chicken-fried steak and 16 other cuts. The chicken-fried is $4.95, while a 20-ounce T-bone or porterhouse is $10.25, the most expensive. Everything served is painted on the walls of every room in letters one can read from afar without glasses. Nothing fancy at the Red Barn, but the steaks, French fries or baked potatoes and salad keep coming until one is ready to cry for help.

We made our second visit since 1983 to Mi Tierra (218 Produce Row in El Mercado) and were just as delighted as our first visit. This one is about as colorful as they come, with huge portraits of Zapata, Pancho Villa and assorted fierce-looking bandidos looking down from the walls. We had the best fajitas ever on our first trip (now $8.95), and this time settled for appetizers of queso flameado (melted Monterrey cheese with bits of Mexican chorizo , $4.75) and a marvelous caldo del mercado , a tortilla soup with shredded chicken, avocado and cilantro for $4.95. The soup alone is an entire meal, and manic mariachis keep the place lively.

Going first-class: La Mansion del Rio Hotel began life in 1852 as a religious school and is right on the River Walk, a near-perfect example of the convent-type architecture of the period. Elegance fairly drips from the beautifully appointed bedrooms, each with a central courtyard or River Walk view, to the marvelous Mexican and Spanish antiques in the lobby, lounges and restaurants.

No possible amenity is missing here, and there are two restaurants: El Capistrano for service poolside or beneath a skylight, and Las Canarias, an exquisite room serving the very best of Southwest and continental dishes. La Mansion has been designated a national historical treasure, probably because it reflects the town’s history, character and color in such a perfect manner.

On your own: Getting around the inner city is no problem since there is a group of old-fashioned streetcars that loop the main streets and sights for 10 cents a ride. One may also take a 40-minute open-boat ride that circles town for $2.25, including a guide-helmsman pointing out sights along the River Walk.

Nobody can visit San Antonio without a long stop at the Alamo and its fascinating museum. A visit to the 1731 Mission Concepcion is also a must, as is the 1720 Mission San Jose, the most beautiful and best fortified of all. A mariachi Mass is held each Sunday at this “Queen of the Texas Missions.”

El Mercado is surely the liveliest place in town, day or night, with shops, cafes and restaurants going full tilt to the music of street bands. La Villita (little town) is the original settlement of San Antonio, now equally alive with artists, craftsmen, shops and cafes.

Less weighty pursuits call for a visit to Sea World of Texas and its spectacular killer whale show. In mid-March, the Fiesta Texas theme park of music and entertainment will open permanently, and it’s a sure bet that it will function in truly gigantic Texas style.

If the urge to master that Texas two-step comes over you, head for the Farmer’s Daughter (542 North W.W. White Road), where the music is live, the crowd livelier and we had a great evening of fun. The Blue Bonnet Palace (in nearby Schertz) tosses in live bull riding, albeit small bulls, but our sporting blood turned livid at the thought.

GUIDEBOOK

San Antonio

Getting there: Fly Southwest Airlines, Delta or American from LAX to San Antonio. An advance-purchase, round-trip ticket will cost about $198.

Accommodations: Menger Hotel (204 Alamo Plaza; $94-$118 double); The Crockett (320 Bonham; $70-$120 double); La Quinta (Market Square; $73 double); La Mansion del Rio (112 College; $130-$240 double).

For more information: Call the San Antonio Visitors Bureau at (800) 447-3372, or write (Box 2277, San Antonio, Tex. 78298) for brochures on the town, hotels and prices, city attractions, upcoming events and almost anything of special interest that one asks for.