THE WINE LIST

Curiouser and curiouser, as Alice might have said. The wine list at Xiomara, at first glance, seems carefully thought out: dozens from the fine wine regions, lots of magnums, even some obscure but excellent wines, and glassware large enough to swirl without staining your tie.

But there are indications that this list is still under construction. Pricing follows no pattern, and some spellings suggest that the list was assembled absent a proofreader.

Bargain hunters will have a good time searching out Michel Tribaut sparkling wine, $18; 1989 Byron Reserve Chardonnay, $24; Sauvignon Blancs from Greenwood Ridge, $18, and Carmenet, $20; 1983 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, $24; 1989 Byron Pinot Noir, $22, and 1988 Trimbach Gewurztraminer, $22.

Other bargains include 1989 Benziger Tribute, a complex white wine blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, $18; it retails for $17. But 1985 Stony Hill Chardonnay at $140 is a rip-off.

In general, though, there are many good choices, especially for those seeking mature wines. Among these are 1981 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, $50; 1981 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, $95; 1985 Mommessian Gevrey-Chambertin, $38, and 1985 Mayacamas Chardonnay, $85 for a magnum.

For smaller sips, there are seven wines in half-bottles, and the extensive after-dinner list includes a glass of Germain-Robin brandy, $7, two Bonny Doon infusions at $6 each and eight Cognacs.