Embraisable Ewe
We Americans usually think of lamb in terms of roasts and broiled chops, but in many countries lamb is braised.
Braising is an economical way to enjoy lamb because you can use the shoulder, a reasonably priced cut. To braise it quickly and have each morsel absorb as much flavor from the sauce as possible, you should cut the lamb into bite-size cubes. When you add onions, garlic, tomatoes, herbs and sometimes wine, you end up with a wonderful sauce. Technically, we call this type of preparation a stew. But perhaps we shouldn’t. Family and friends are likely to be more enthusiastic if you say, “I’m cooking an aromatic Moroccan tajine with garlic and cilantro” or “I’m preparing a French lamb navarin with spring vegetables” than “I’m making a lamb stew.”
To make these rich lamb dishes lighter, I like to include a generous amount of vegetables, preferably those that are traditionally matched with lamb in Mediterranean home cooking. In this sunny region, where lamb has long been the meat of choice, it is often paired with eggplant, zucchini, okra, peppers, peas, cauliflower, Jerusalem artichokes or tomatoes.
Lamb dishes are seasoned with spicy combinations of hot peppers and cumin, robust flavorings such as garlic and rosemary, or mellow mixtures of onions, saffron and sometimes cinnamon and honey.
Lamb is a favorite in Europe also. Lamb navarin , for example--lamb braised with a variety of such vegetables as carrots, turnips, baby onions and potatoes--is a classic in the French home kitchen. In both Europe and the Mediterranean, lamb and beans are a popular pair, whether it’s the delicate, pale-green French flageolets, the larger white beans or the fava and garbanzo beans (chick-peas) so relished in the Eastern Mediterranean. The beans either simmer with the lamb or are served on the side.
Lamb is a more tender meat than beef, thus it cooks more quickly. Although braising does take time, once you’ve put the ingredients in the pot, all you need to do is stir it once in a while. A time-saving tip from the Moroccan kitchen is to follow the typical procedure for a lamb tajine , where the lamb is simmered with the other ingredients without being browned first. This technique is not only easier, it also eliminates the need to add fat for browning.
A fashionable choice for festive springtime dinners and a time-honored main course on both Easter and Passover menus, lamb is most convenient for entertaining when cooked in a savory sauce. It reheats beautifully; in fact, the flavor gets even better when the lamb is cooked ahead and refrigerated for a day or two. When cooked this way, the meat always comes out moist and luxurious-tasting.
TUSCAN-STYLE LAMB WITH PEAS
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed of excess fat, cut into 1-inch pieces and patted dry
2 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, minced, or 1 teaspoon crumbled dried
2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 2 (28-ounce) cans plum tomatoes, drained
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/3 cup water
3 pounds fresh peas, shelled, or 3 cups frozen peas, thawed
Heat oil in wide, heavy casserole over medium-high heat. Add lamb in batches and brown on all sides. Transfer with slotted spoon to plate. Pour out all but 1 tablespoon oil. Add garlic and rosemary and saute over medium-low heat, stirring, 1/2 minute. Stir in tomatoes.
Return lamb to casserole with any juices on plate. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add water and bring to boil, stirring. Cover and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally (and crushing canned tomatoes), 1 to 1 1/4 hours or until meat is very tender when pierced with sharp knife. Add peas to casserole. Cover and simmer 3 to 5 minutes or until peas are tender. Taste and adjust seasonings. Makes 4 servings.
MOROCCAN-STYLE LAMB TAJINE WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, excess fat trimmed, meat cut into 1-inch pieces and patted dry
1 medium onion, cut into thin slices
3 large cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons minced ginger root or 3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes, drained and chopped
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crushed, optional
1 1/2 cups water
2 pounds Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes), scrubbed
1/2 cup pitted black olives, drained
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Combine lamb, onion, garlic, ginger and 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro in heavy casserole. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat, stirring, 3 minutes. Add tomatoes. Bring to boil, stirring. Add saffron and water. Bring to boil. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, 1 to 1 1/4 hours, or until lamb is just tender when pierced with knife. Skim fat from sauce.
Peel Jerusalem artichokes and place them in bowl of water. Cut large ones into 1-inch chunks. Leave small ones whole. Return them to water.
When lamb is tender, rinse and drain Jerusalem artichokes and add to casserole. Cover and simmer 20 minutes, or until artichokes are just tender but not falling apart. Remove lamb and vegetables with slotted spoon. Boil sauce, stirring, until reduced to 1 1/3 cups. Return lamb and vegetables to sauce. Add olives and heat gently 2 minutes. Stir in parsley and remaining 2 tablespoons cilantro. Adjust seasonings to taste. Makes 4 servings.