The Golden Globes : Yellow and candy-striped specialty versions have a faithful following, along with the year-round reds.

From above-ground, large ruby-veined green leaves provide an impressive cover for this plant’s most desirable part. A purposeful yank reveals a sweet roundish gem of a root. The deep purplish-red hue is unmistakable--it’s a beet.

The warming sun of spring and summer kicks Ventura County’s year-round beet harvest into high gear, and consumers can expect good prices and high quality at area grocers, farmers markets and roadside produce stands.

While the red beet is a common addition to salads and is used as a colorful garnish, there are a couple of other varieties you might not have come across as yet.

Have you tried the Chioggia, known as the candy-striped beet? How about the golden beet? These lesser-known varieties have been around for a long time and are popular with more than a few home gardeners, but you’re not likely to find them at most local markets.

The Underwood Ranches produce stand in Somis is one of the few places to procure these specialty versions in Ventura County.

The Chioggia is the fanciest of the bunch with a flesh that features red and white hues in concentric circles.

“The candy-stripe has a more subtle taste than other types,” said Minos Athanassiadis, part owner of Underwood Ranches. “Most beets taste pretty much the same, although some think the gold has a sweeter, more beety taste.”

The gold beet is recognizable by its outer dark yellow skin, which wraps around the bright yellow flesh inside.

Besides a wealth of color, these Technicolor beet types are smaller, which means a shorter cooking time and more tender flesh.

“These are about 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter,” Athanassiadis said. “A beet this size can be eaten with the skin, whereas something around three inches will have to be skinned.”

While anything but ubiquitous, these specialty beets have a faithful following, Athanassiadis said.

“They are extremely popular at our stand,” Athanassiadis said. “We probably sell just as many of the fancy types as we do the red.”

So why aren’t they grown in greater abundance?

“Because beets are a small market item. People generally buy canned rather than fresh,” he said. “Farmers will grow anything they get demand for, but it’s more a case of the retailer not willing to take a chance on them.”

Retailers in California may have not yet taken to the fancy beet, but they are popular in other parts of the country.

“You can find these types more regularly in Seattle and New York,” he said. “The candy-stripes--which come from Italy--are especially popular in New York.” Underwood Ranches also ships its beets weekly to Hong Kong.

When purchasing beets, Athanassiadis said, the greens or tops will provide the clues to freshness.

“Watch for nice fresh tops,” he said. “You don’t want the leaves or the root to have blemishes. Blemishes mean that it has been around a while. And yellowing on the leaves means the beet is old.”

He suggested that the beet tops can be steamed and used as a tasty side dish to complement the root portion. “The leaves from all the varieties can be eaten and are extremely nutritious. They’re great with a little olive oil and vinegar.”

Once beets have been purchased, Athanassiadis said, you don’t have to prepare them right away. “Beets were once known as a cellar crop,” he said. “They last forever. People would store them in the cellar so they could have fresh vegetables over the winter.”

If you don’t prepare them right away, you’ll want to slice off the tops before refrigerating the beets. “The tops will tend to draw nutrients from the root if you don’t,” Athanassiadis said.

For a simple preparation that is very good, Athanassiadis said, “the best way is to boil the beets until tender and slice and add lemon and olive oil.”

SERVING SUGGESTION / BEET SALAD WITH WALNUTS

4 medium beets

2 large onions, cut in 1/3-inch slices

3 sweet peppers, preferably 1 red and 2 green

1 to 1 1/2 pounds beet greens, coarsely chopped

6 tablespoons olive oil

1 large clove garlic, finely minced

2 tablespoons lemon juice, or to taste

About 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill

Salt

1/2 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped

Grill onions until well flecked with brown, then cut in 1/2-inch chunks. Grill sweet peppers. Peel and cut in 1/2-inch strips. Steam beets in boiling, salted water. Peel and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Steam beet greens until just tender. Drain.

Whisk olive oil with garlic, lemon juice and dill in bowl. Combine 2 tablespoons dressing with beets. Season to taste with salt. Mix remaining dressing with onions and peppers. Season to taste with salt.

Drain excess dressing from onions and peppers and pour over beet greens, mixing well. Cool to room temperature. Season to taste with salt.

Make bed of beet greens on serving platter. Arrange marinated beets and onion-pepper mixture decoratively on top. Sprinkle walnuts on top and serve at once. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: Marinated vegetables will keep refrigerated 2 or 3 days. Serve at room temperature for best flavor. Nuts will become soggy if left in dressing; add just before serving to assure maximum crunch. If beet greens have scanty or tired foliage, substitute Swiss chard.