Goodby, Columbus

If Columbus’ Italian friends had thrown him a farewell party on the eve of his voyage, what would they have served?

We can easily think of things they wouldn’t have served: cornmeal polenta, potato gnocchi, tomato sauce. There would have been no zucchini or pasta e fagioli or penne all’arrabbiata , either (squashes, beans and red pepper are New World crops too). And no desserts containing cioccolata, of course.

Hey! What’s left?

Some things would certainly look Italian to us. There would be pasta, though not in as many shapes as we have now: basically lasagne, vermicelli and a variable middle-width pasta (and possibly macaroni, though it was still a novelty). We could find veal scaloppine and simple roast meats, served with sauces largely made from ground spices. The cheesecakes would look familiar, but they might turn out to be spiced too.

The rest would seem very strange. There would be peculiar stews, such as chicken with almonds, sugar, dates, sour orange juice, mushrooms and five or six spices. Meatballs might be made from a mixture of bacon, grated pork liver and mixed cheeses, plus raisins, herbs and spices.

Many sauces would be distinctly thickened, usually with bread crumbs, because the medieval habit of eating with either a spoon or the fingers still affected cookery. There would be a surprising number of pies, a habit left over from the days when pies with very sturdy crusts (not necessarily to be eaten) were a way of preserving food. The date on which the bon-voyage feast was held would have a profound effect on what was served, because days of abstinence from meat and dairy products were numerous and strictly observed.

The most exotic features, from the standpoint of modern Italian cooking, would be the heavy use of spices, nuts and fruit with meat, and the strong taste for sweet-and-sour flavors. If we attended a farewell banquet for Columbus, the food would seem alien, full of wild aromas and flavors, but also hauntingly familiar--just as beneath the quarreling and pageantry of the 14th and 15th centuries we can detect the faint origins of our own world.

Of course, Columbus’ friends would probably be feasting him in Spain, but this would make little difference. The most surprising thing about Renaissance (and medieval) food was how little it differed from country to country. Where you lived had less to do with what you ate than what feudal estate you were born into. Peasants ate bread, porridge and cheese, the nobility ate haute cuisine and city people ate as much like the nobles as they could afford.

One reason for this uniformity was that states were still based on dynasties, not nationalities, so cooks had no patriotic objection to borrowing from other countries. Old Italian cookbooks list French dishes such as blancmanger (chicken cooked with almonds, rice and sugar), Spanish dishes such as mirrauste (half-roasted meat made into stew) and dishes described as German, Hungarian and English, just as casually as they list Tuscan, Sicilian or Venetian specialties. At the same period an English cookbook was giving recipes for losenys (lasagna).

Of course, one big reason for all the similarity was that haute cuisine largely stemmed from Italy in the first place. The earliest French cookbooks were written around 1309 in Italy, at the court of a French monarch who also ruled Naples at the time. They have been described as “a sort of treaty of union between the French and Italian craftsmen . . . revised and corrected to facilitate its use by the French.”

Since the Middle Ages, the Italians had been the trend-setters at the table: the first to use the fork, the first to insist on hand washing before the meal, the inventors of delicate manners. Not that Italian ways were adopted immediately. In his essay “On the Vanity of Words,” Montaigne made fun of the maitre d’hotel of an Italian cardinal for discoursing on “this science of stuffing one’s face, with gravity and magisterial seriousness, as though he were speaking to me of some capital theological point.”

Here are the things that seemed so ridiculous to Montaigne: distinguishing the degrees of hunger we feel at the different stages of a meal, studying how to pique the appetite, establishing the correct order of sauces in a meal, and such details as what should go into salads according to the season, which dishes should be served heated and which should be served cold and how to decorate and embellish food. In other words, a 16th-Century Frenchman was mocking exactly the sort of refined attention to the pleasures of the table for which the French were to be known 200 years later. There may be some sort of lesson here.

This early cuisine was closer to medieval Near Eastern cookery than to any modern style of cooking, particularly in the free use of spices and the preference for sweet-sour combinations. Incidentally, the reason for the spices and other strong flavors was not, as we often hear, that medieval cooks had to cover up the smell of rotting meat. Spices were used on vegetables as well as on meat, and one thing medieval and Renaissance cookbooks never say is to throw in spices if the meat is spoiled. (For that matter, it’s very much a matter of opinion whether spices really can cover up the smell of rotting meat.)

The real reasons for the use of spices were simple, almost childlike. Spices smelled delightful, and they seemed magical--all that flavor in a tiny bit of powder. And before trade with India became common, they were still rare and expensive, and therefore a way of showing off.

Possibly the main reason for using spices was that they were considered to have medicinal value. Many medieval books try to spell out which spices to use for which medical complaints. Sweet and sour flavors also were supposed to affect your health, and this is probably why so many dishes were sweet-sour. It made them “neutral,” and unlikely to knock your metabolism off balance.

In the Renaissance, though cooking gradually became more careful and refined, this heavily flavored cuisine remained basically unchanged. Between 1490 and 1651, observed the historian Jean-Francois Revel in “Culture and Cuisine,” the only new books on cooking concentrated on diet or manners, rather than recipes; “All of them presuppose as their point of departure a certain type of cuisine that is more or less generally accepted.”

In fact, one of the very oldest French cookbooks, “Grand Cuisinier de Toute Cuisine” by Pierre Pidoulx, was published in 1540 and became a best-seller--it stayed in print for 80 years. Here’s the thing: It had been written in 1350 , but apparently even 250 years later people didn’t find it old-fashioned.

The following collection of ancient Italian recipes, all of which might have showed up at a banquet table in Columbus’ time, comes from several books. The earliest is an anonymous 14th-Century work, “Libro per Cuoco,” and the latest is “Libro Novo nel Qual s’Insegna a Far d’Ogni Sorte di Vivande,” by Cristofaro Messisbugo, published in 1557.

There were other books written during these two centuries, the most famous being “Platinae De Honesta Voluptate” (“Dishes of Lawful Pleasure”) by Bartolommeo Sacchi, who became known as Platina (“Dish”) as a result. It was printed in 1475--the first cookbook published in Europe--which gave it special prominence. It was also translated into French and German and studied all over Europe for the next 200 years.

The author, if we may call him that (as far as we can tell he lifted all the recipes from other books), was a librarian and scholar who had gotten in trouble with the ecclesiastical authorities in 1462 and spent four months in a papal prison. In 1467, when he wrote his cookbook, Platina was in more trouble for belonging to a literary group known as the Accademia Romana, which was charged with impiety. He tried dedicating the book to two cardinals in an attempt to get them on his side. In the end, he found his way back into the good graces of the church by writing a massive biography of the first 100 popes.

Most of his recipes came from a book called “Libro de Arte Coquinaria” by a friend of his, Maestro Martino, personal chef of the papal treasurer. As a self-respecting Renaissance humanist, Platina wrote the book in classical Latin and consciously modeled it on the ancient Roman cookbook of Apicius, using Roman terminology whenever possible, though not necessarily where appropriate (he called meat stock liquamen , which in Roman times was a fermented fish sauce). For blancmanger he went so far as to invent a pseudo-Greek name: leucophagum.

But a new spirit was brewing underneath all this archaism. Among the complex, heavily spiced dishes, Maestro Martino had already given a recipe for shrimp that would be considered minimalist even by Nouvelle Cuisine standards: Boil them with fennel leaves and serve with vinegar.

In the next century, Messisbugo would give a recipe for mushrooms that was totally medieval: Boil them with bread crumbs and garlic (“against poison”), then put them in a bowl with oil, pounded parsley and mint, pepper, cinnamon, ginger, salt, saffron, juice of sour grapes and honey. But he also suggested alternatives that were thoroughly modern: fry the mushrooms with oil, salt and pepper, or with parsley, oil, citrus juice and pepper.

Add some zucchini on the side, and maybe some gnocchi--and tomato sauce, of course--and we’re home.

Basically this is plain old spinach ravioli, but with exotic flavorings. The pinches of spice at the end are important. From the 14th-Century “Libro per Cuoco.”

RAFIOLI COMMUN DE HERBE VANZATI (Mint and Spinach Ravioli)

1 (10-ounce) bag spinach leaves, chopped, about 6 cups loosely packed

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 egg, lightly beaten

1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

Ground cinnamon

Ground ginger

Ground cumin

Salt, pepper

Ravioli Dough

Boiling salted water

Parmesan cheese, grated

Saute spinach, mint and parsley in olive oil until spinach is wilted. Let cool. Stir in egg, mozzarella, 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon ginger, 1/8 teaspoon cumin and salt and pepper to taste.

Divide Ravioli Dough into 8 portions. Roll each piece through pasta machine on successively finer settings into thin sheets, about 4 inches wide and 16 to 18 inches long.

Spread 1 pasta sheet on floured work surface. Place filling by teaspoons at 8 regular intervals about 2 inches apart, 1 inch from right-hand long edge of sheet. Lightly moisten pasta around fillings. Fold left half of pasta over filling, carefully squeezing out all air pockets. Seal between fillings by pressing firmly with sides of hands. Cut into 8 (2-inch) squares with filling in center of each. Transfer to floured cloth. Repeat with remaining sheets of dough.

Cook ravioli in boiling salted water until they float to surface, about 5 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon and drain in colander. Serve sprinkled with cinnamon, ginger and cumin and grated Parmesan cheese to taste. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

224 calories; 137 mg sodium; 110 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 0.5 gram fiber.

Ravioli Dough

2 cups unbleached flour

3 extra large eggs

1 tablespoon olive oil

Place flour in food processor bowl fitted with metal blade. Beat eggs and olive oil in small bowl until blended, then add to food processor with motor running. Process until dough forms ball and is very smooth.

Turn dough out onto lightly floured work surface. Knead well, adding small amounts of flour as needed to keep from sticking to hands and surface, until dough is smooth and very elastic. Let dough stand 20 to 30 minutes before rolling out.

From Platina, “De Honesta Voluptate,” 1466. This is one of the dishes that Platina lifted unchanged (apart from translating it into Latin) from Maestro Martino, who called it plain old torta Bolognese.

TORTA BONONIENSIS (Chard Pie)

6 tablespoons butter

1 1/2 cups flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 to 5 tablespoons ice water

Chard Filling

1 egg

1 teaspoon water

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

Cut butter into flour and salt until particles are size of small peas. Sprinkle with ice water and quickly stir with fork until dough is evenly moistened and will form into ball.

On lightly floured board, roll out about 3/4 of dough to fit bottom and sides of 9-inch tart pan. Trim edges. Roll out remaining dough and cut into about 1/2-inch-wide lattice strips. Fill tart with Chard Filling. Arrange lattice strips crisscross on top. Blend egg with 1 teaspoon water and saffron threads and brush on pastry.

Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 35 minutes or until filling is puffed and crust is browned. Remove tart from pan to baking sheet during last 5 minutes. Brush sides with remaining saffron-egg mixture and finish baking. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

371 calories; 491 mg sodium; 230 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 27 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 0.4 gram fiber.

Chard Filling

1 bunch Swiss chard, tough stems removed, chopped, about 5 cups

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon saffron threads, loosely packed

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 tablespoons minced fresh marjoram leaves

Salt, pepper

3 eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

1/2 cup mozzarella cheese, shredded

Saute chard in butter until tender. Crush saffron and stir in. Stir in parsley and marjoram. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand until just warm. Mix with eggs, ricotta and mozzarella cheeses.

To the modern taste, the most appealing part of this recipe is probably the pan juices fragrant with garlic and fennel. Use the Salsa Camelino sparingly; it’s very sweet. Recipe from Messisbugo, 1557.

POLPETTE GRIGLIATE (Spiced Scaloppine)

12 thin slices veal for scaloppine

3 cloves garlic, crushed

1 1/2 teaspoons fennel seeds, ground

Salt, pepper

6 tablespoons white wine vinegar

6 tablespoons butter

Salsa Camelino

Pound veal to flatten. Rub garlic, fennel and salt and pepper to taste over all sides of meat. Place in shallow dish, sprinkle with vinegar and marinate 30 minutes.

Heat butter in skillet until sizzling. Add meat and saute quickly on both sides in several batches until lightly browned, about 1 minute per side.

Remove to platter. Spoon pan juices over meat. Spoon some Salsa Camelino on top, if desired, and serve remaining on side. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

362 calories; 327 mg sodium; 124 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 22 grams protein; 0.42 gram fiber.

Salsa Camelino

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup Marsala wine

2 to 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs

1 tablespoon honey

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Dash ground ginger

Dash ground cloves

Chop raisins coarsely. Add to small saucepan with wine and vinegar. Heat to boiling. Stir in bread crumbs, honey, cinnamon, pepper, ginger and cloves. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes. Makes about 1/2 cup.

Another scaloppine recipe from Messisbugo, again sweetened with raisins and fragrant with fennel and garlic, but this time with a rich cheese filling.

POLPETTE GRIGLIATE (Grilled Saltimbocca)

8 thin slices veal for scaloppine

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Salt, pepper

Cheese Filling

Marinate veal with vinegar and salt and pepper to taste 1 hour. Pat dry with paper towels. Spoon about 2 tablespoons Cheese Filling on each slice and roll up. Grill quickly over high heat, turning to cook evenly, until meat is browned and Cheese Filling is melted. Makes 8 appetizer servings.

Each serving contains about:

119 calories; 164 mg sodium; 102 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 0.2 gram fiber.

Cheese Filling

1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

1/2 cup seedless raisins, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed

2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

Salt, pepper

Mix mozzarella, raisins, parsley, garlic, fennel and egg yolks. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

It looks strange on paper, but this is a surprisingly tasty dish. Mentioned in a banquet menu recorded by Messisbugo.

POLLO FRICTO CON LIMONE (Chicken Fried With Diced Lemon)

1 chicken, cut up

Salt

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 1/2 lemons

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon peppercorns, freshly ground

Rub chicken with salt to taste and brown in olive oil. Drain off excess oil.

Squeeze juice of 3 lemons and cut remaining 1 1/2 lemons into 1/2-inch dice. Add lemon juice and diced lemons to pan, cover and simmer 15 minutes. Uncover and simmer 5 to 10 minutes longer, turning chicken to glaze all sides.

Combine sugar and ground peppercorns and pass with chicken for diners to season to taste. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

393 calories; 158 mg sodium; 90 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 22 grams protein; 0 fiber.

Not your ordinary stuffed cabbage--the only meat is in the sauce. From Messisbugo, 1557.

VERZE PIENE (Cabbage Stuffed With Walnuts)

2 cups ground walnuts

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 tablespoon minced fresh sage

1/4 teaspoon crushed saffron threads

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

3 eggs, lightly beaten

6 large cabbage leaves

5 cups chicken broth

1 cup diced cooked ham

1/4 cup minced parsley

Combine walnuts, Parmesan, garlic, ginger, sage, saffron, cloves, pepper and eggs. Blanch cabbage leaves until tender in boiling water. Drain leaves. Spoon about 1/4 cup filling into each leaf and roll up.

Combine chicken broth, ham and parsley in large pot. Bring to boil, reduce heat and add cabbage rolls. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Serve in shallow bowls with broth and ham. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

413 calories; 1,143 mg sodium; 127 mg cholesterol; 33 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 2 grams fiber.

Cheesecakes have been made in Italy since Roman times; this one seems almost modern. From Maestro Martino’s “Libro di Arte Coquinaria,” mid-15th Century.

TORTA DE CERASE (Cherry Cheesecake)

2 1/4 cups flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup butter, cut up

3 egg yolks, lightly beaten

1/4 cup Marsala wine

Cherry-Cheese Filling

Fresh Bing cherries for garnish, optional

Combine flour, sugar and salt. Cut in butter until particles are size of small peas. Combine egg yolks and Marsala. Stir in quickly with fork until dough is evenly moistened and will form into ball.

On lightly floured board, roll out dough to fit bottom and sides of 9-inch springform pan. Place in pan, bringing sides up to about 1 inch below top edge. Chill until dough is firm.

Spread Cherry Cheese Filling evenly into crust and smooth top. Bake at 350 degrees 50 to 60 minutes or until center is set. Remove and allow to cool. Remove from springform pan. Garnish with fresh cherries. Makes 20 servings.

Each serving contains about:

274 calories; 263 mg sodium; 112 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 25 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; trace fiber.

Cherry-Cheese Filling

5 cups ricotta cheese

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup sugar

3 eggs

2 tablespoons minced crystallized ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1 (1-pound) can dark sweet pitted cherries, drained and halved

Beat together ricotta, Parmesan cheese and sugar in large mixer bowl or food processor. Beat in eggs, 1 at time, until blended. Beat in ginger, cinnamon and white pepper. Fold in drained cherries.

The luxurious ancestor of the French pain perdu or pain doree; really quite golden in color when you add the saffron-colored syrup. From Maestro Martino, Mid-15th Century.

SUPPA DORATA (Saffron ‘French Toast’)

3 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon rose water

4 (1/2-inch thick) slices bread, crusts removed and quartered

1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons butter

Saffron Syrup

Combine eggs, sugar and rose water. Soak slices in mixture just until absorbed.

Heat butter in skillet. Fry toast until golden brown on both sides. Serve with Saffron Syrup. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

366 calories; 218 mg sodium; 172 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 66 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; trace fiber.

Saffron Syrup

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

Dash saffron threads

1/4 teaspoon rose water

Cook water, sugar and saffron to syrup stage, 230 to 234 degrees. Let cool and stir in rose water. Makes about 1 1/4 cups.