Mashed Potatoes Grow Up

As a child, I adored smooth, creamy mashed potatoes. I still do. But through the years I’ve found that with the right ingredients--maybe a little garlic and rosemary, and some good Parmesan cheese--mashed potatoes can be a completely sophisticated pleasure for grown-ups.

One of my favorite dishes is Gratin of Garlic-Rosemary Mashed Potatoes. I make it by boiling red potatoes with whole garlic cloves. When tender, the potatoes and garlic are mixed until smooth, seasoned and combined with a small amount of butter and a little chicken stock. Then the mixture is spread in a baking dish and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese.

GRATIN OF GARLIC-ROSEMARY MASHED POTATOES

7 quarts water

5 pounds red potatoes, peeled and diced 1 inch

1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, plus more if needed

12 large cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

2 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crushed, or 2 1/4 tablespoons very finely chopped fresh rosemary

Salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup chicken stock, warmed

1 cup grated imported Parmesan cheese

Bring water to boil in large, heavy pan. Add potatoes, 1 tablespoon salt and garlic cloves. Cook until potatoes and garlic are very tender, about 30 minutes. Drain well in large colander.

Place mixture in bowl of electric mixer. Add butter, rosemary, salt to taste and pepper. Beat on medium-high speed until mixture is smooth. Reduce speed to slow and gradually pour in warm stock. Adjust salt to taste. (Potatoes also can be prepared by hand with potato masher. Mash potatoes, garlic, butter and seasonings until mixture is smooth. Stir in stock.)

Spray large 2- to 3-quart oven-to-table dish with non-stick vegetable spray. Using spatula, spread 1/2 of potatoes in dish. Sprinkle with 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese. Spread remaining potatoes evenly over top and smooth with spatula. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup cheese. (Potatoes can be prepared day ahead up to this point. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Bring potatoes to room temperature 30 minutes before baking.)

Bake potatoes, uncovered, on center shelf at 375 degrees until cheese has melted and potatoes are hot, about 20 minutes or longer. Serve hot. Makes 8 servings.