Barker Valley : Serious Effort Needed to Get There, But Sights Are Rewarding

Tucked into a dry and isolated corner of the Cleveland National Forest, the oak-rimmed oasis of Barker Valley is an incredible surprise. The perennial west fork of the San Luis Rey River gurgles through the narrow valley floor, sustaining a growth of willows and sycamores along its banks. Centuries-old live-oaks cast inviting pools of shade across grassy meadows now bleaching from green to gold under the relentless rays of the sun.

Getting there requires some serious driving and hiking--first on an 8-mile stretch of bone-shaking “truck trail” that will surely loosen a nut or two on your vehicle, then on a gently descending, sun-exposed, 3-mile hiking trail. Get an early start if you’re heading down for a picnic, so as to avoid some of the midday heat. Also, bring all the water you need--at least 2 quarts for a day’s visit this time of year--or take along the proper filtering device for purifying the stream water.

Barker Valley is a popular destination for backpacking. No campfires are allowed, however, and for an overnight stay you’ll need a remote camping permit from the forest service (call 788-0250).

To reach the trailhead, turn west from Highway 79 onto Palomar Divide Road (forest road 9S07), 6.5 miles northwest of Warner Springs. Continue on the winding, unpaved road 7.8 miles to the Barker Valley Spur trailhead on the left side. In its current, ungraded condition, Palomar Divide Road is no problem for high-clearance vehicles, but chancy for low-slung passenger cars.

Park off the roadway and head down the trail (an old roadbed), which gradually descents along a chaparral-covered slope. The uneven growth is a consequence of various fires--some prescribed (to rid the hills of half-dead, mature shrubbery), other unintentional. For a while you pass through a grown-in section, unburned for perhaps several decades, choked with an attractive and colorful mix of manzanita, chamise, mountain mahogany, silk-tassel bush, ceanothus, and ribbonwood. The latter, almost dominant shrub spreads feathery plumes of light green foliage across the slopes. Notice its perpetually peeling, ribbon-like bark.

Keep an eye out for hawks and ravens soaring overhead. During the winter, bald eagles are sometimes seen here, not far from where they roost on old snags near the shore of Lake Henshaw. Also keep a sharp eye on the ground for horned lizards. When not scurrying about, they’re practically invisible against the decomposed granite soil.

Hike for 1.7 miles on a gradual descent until the old roadbed switches back sharply. Continue around the U-curve, and within 0.1 mile veer to the right on a newly cut trail (complete last year) that lazily zigzags down to the valley floor, 3.1 miles from and 1,000 feet lower than your car.

By poking around the valley a bit, you may find evidence of former homesteads (various rusty pieces of metal and square nails), and evidence of early Indian use as well. Bedrock mortars (holes for grinding acorns) can be seen worn into some of the larger slab rocks. Keep in mind that all features are protected; there’s no collection allowed without a special permit from the forest service.

The abundant but circumspect wildlife includes deer, coyotes, bobcats, and a host of birds, reptiles and small mammals. As spring grades into summer, most of these creatures will be active in the coolness of twilight and night. Rattlesnakes are not unknown, so proceed slowly and cautiously through all areas off the trail that might harbor them.

A rugged set of falls and pools await adventurous hikers a mile downstream from the foot of the Barker Spur Trail. These occur just below an old stone weir and gauging station. By following rough paths traversing the steep, brushy, north canyon wall, it’s possible to reach hidden swimming holes worn in the water-polished rock. Wild trout can be found in the pools below the first falls, but a license is needed for fishing. Don’t attempt to explore this area unless you’re adept at scrambling over steep terrain and across potentially slippery, water-polished rock. An ill-timed slip in a couple of places could result in a deadly, 50-foot plunge.

When it’s time to return, go back the same way. The consistently gradual trail is not in itself challenging, but it may prove difficult after many hours of exposure to the warm sun.