GENERATIONS

When Mary Min landed in San Francisco in 1948, she was anything but an average immigrant. Her husband, minister of transportation in South Korea’s first government as free-nation after World War II, had been appointed Korea’s first consul general in Los Angeles. And yet in many was, Mary Min had a harder time than the poorest Korean immigrant arriving in this country today. She had five children, she spoke no English, and she had suffered greatly during a long, stormy voyage by sea. Today’s immigrants can turn to a large Korean population for supplies and support, but Min had to struggle in an incomprehensible environment, without Korean markets, shops and restaurants. Her husband, Heui Sik (Edward) Min, having been educated in the United States, spoke fluent English but while he was at work she was helpless to get about the city or shop for necessities.

She was pretty helpless in the house as well. Min had been accustomed to household help; when she came to this country she had to learn not only the duties of a consular wife but also how to care for a house, and how to cook.

For the first month, the Mins stayed in San Francisco. When they came to Los Angeles they stayed in the Clark Hotel while they looked for a house. And then Mary Min set about teaching herself how to cook.

Somehow, despite the lack of proper ingredients, she managed to provide her family with traditional Korean meals. “Luckily,” says her daughter Susan Min Park, “we had rice most of the time. But in the beginning, we couldn’t get short-grain rice, which Koreans prefer.”

Min, whose Korean name is Pu Ki, is still shy about speaking English, so her daughter translates for her. She describes how challenging Mary Min’s life became when her husband accepted positions that took him to Washington, Japan and Korea. She remained behind with the family so the children could complete their education.

In Mary Min’s modest living room there is a handsome inlaid frame holding old photos of the couple. The shot of Mary, in Western attire with a fur around her shoulders and a brimmed hat pulled fashionably low, is arresting. More photos in family albums show a young woman of unusual beauty.

It is still apparent today. And although she now appears thin and fragile, 85-year-old Mary Min still cooks with the vigor of her younger days. Looking smart in a slim white pantsuit, she spent one recent afternoon slicing, chopping, simmering and stirring in the kitchen of her small West Covina home.

The outcome was a fine Korean meal, a parade of dishes that included wrinkly soft cucumber slices mixed with ground pork; chicken colored a warm brown with soy sauce and shiitake mushroom liquid; chap chae , which is the Korean equivalent of chow mein; marinated bean sprouts; and a pale summer version of the cabbage pickle kimchi.

“It’s amazing she’s still cooking,” says Susan. Not only that, but Min prefers to cook for large groups, a necessity because she now has 10 grandchildren. One of them, Michelle Min-Green, transcribed and tested the following recipes.

Mandoo are dumplings similar to won tons. They can be fried or dropped into soups and also frozen for future use.

MANDOO

1 (14-ounce) carton firm tofu

Oil

1/2 pound ground beef or pork

1 large onion, finely chopped

3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

6 to 7 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked until softened, drained and sliced

1/4 pound bean sprouts

2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped green onion

2 teaspoons minced ginger root

1 egg

1 teaspoon water

1 package square won ton skins

Drain tofu, then wrap in towel and wring to extract all liquid. Roughly chop tofu or crumble into large bowl.

Heat 1 teaspoon oil in skillet. Add and cook beef, stirring to crumble. Drain and add beef to tofu. Heat another 1 teaspoon oil in same skillet. Add and saute onion and garlic until tender. Stir in shiitake mushrooms and bean sprouts during last few seconds. Add vegetables to tofu mixture along with soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds, sugar, pepper, green onion and ginger. Mix well.

Beat egg with water in small dish. Spread out several won ton wrappers, up to 4 dozen. Brush with egg wash. Spoon 1/2 to 1 teaspoon tofu filling into centers. Fold bottom of wrapper over filling to meet top. Press to seal tightly. Place dab of egg wash at 2 upper corners. Fold corners over and press to seal, completing dumpling.

(If dumplings will not be cooked at once, lightly sprinkle with cornstarch and cover with lightly dampened cloth to prevent them from drying out.) Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large skillet over medium heat. Fry 1 layer won tons in hot oil until golden brown on both sides. Repeat with remaining won tons, adding more oil as needed. Makes about 4 dozen.

Each mandoo contains about:

51 calories; 85 mg sodium; 7 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.22 gram fiber.

Note: Instead of frying, mandoo can be cooked in boiling soup. Cover and cook about 3 minutes. They are done when they float and are no longer doughy in texture.

Literally translated, “Bulgogi” means “fire meat” because it is barbecued traditionally . The meat may also be cooked under a broiler, however, or even on broil mode in a toaster oven. Make a double quantity of the marinade, then use the remainder for Chap Chae.

BULGOGI

Bulgogi Marinade

1 pound round steak or Korean-style beef ribs

Score whole steak deeply on diagonal on each side, cut in half, then in 1-inch-wide strips. Add steak to Bulgogi Marinade, coat thoroughly and marinate 4 hours or overnight.

When ready to cook, remove from marinade and grill about 20 minutes, checking frequently for doneness. Occasionally spoon marinade over meat while cooking. Serve hot with steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

264 calories; 3,069 mg sodium; 50 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 25 grams protein; 0.24 grams fiber.

Bulgogi Marinade

3/4 cup soy sauce

1/3 cup sugar

1/2 head garlic, finely chopped

4 or 5 green onions, finely chopped

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon minced ginger root

1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

Combine soy sauce, sugar, garlic, green onions, sesame oil, ginger root and sesame seeds. Makes about 1 1/4 cups.

Save the water from the mushrooms soaked for Chap Chae to use in this chicken dish.

CHICKEN IN SOY SAUCE

6 chicken thighs

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can clear chicken broth

1/4 cup liquid from soaking dried shiitake mushrooms

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon finely minced (almost pureed) green onion

Combine chicken thighs and broth in saucepan. Bring to boil and boil 10 minutes. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. Remove chicken thighs from broth and save broth for another use.

Place chicken in clean pan. Add mushroom soaking liquid, soy sauce, sugar, ginger and green onion. Cover pan and shake to mix. Simmer chicken 10 to 15 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 6 servings as part of Korean dinner.

Each serving contains about:

189 calories; 983 mg sodium; 57 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

The words Chap Chae mean thin - sliced, indicating the uniformly thin slicing of the ingredients. Sweet-potato starch noodles, which are essential to this dish, are readily available in Korean markets.

CHAP CHAE

1/2 pound ground beef or pork

1 1/4 cups Bulgogi Marinade

1 medium onion

1/2 pound carrots

6 to 7 large dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked until softened, drained and sliced

1/2 pound small pickling cucumbers, seeded

4 green onions

2 eggs

Oil

8 ounces Korean sweet-potato starch noodles

4 teaspoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon sugar

Marinate beef in Bulgogi Marinade 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Cut onion, carrots, mushrooms, cucumbers and green onions into thin julienne strips about 2 inches long.

Beat eggs in bowl and pour into small, lightly oiled skillet or omelet pan. Cook gently until firm. Loosen edges from pan. Carefully turn over and finish cooking. Remove from pan and cool. Cut into same-size strips as vegetables.

Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in skillet. Add and saute beef with marinade until just done. Drain well, reserving liquid. Cook noodles in boiling water until al dente and translucent, about 12 minutes. Drain.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet or wok. Add and saute onion and carrots until onion is tender. Add mushrooms and meat. Add noodles and toss with sesame oil and sugar. Add reserved liquid from beef. Lastly, add egg strips and cucumber and toss to mix. Arrange on serving platter and garnish with green onion strips. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Marinating with salt draws the liquid from the cucumbers, making them soft and tender.

CUCUMBERS WITH GROUND PORK

5 pickling cucumbers

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1/2 cup minced onion

1/4 pound ground pork

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons minced green onion

1/4 teaspoon sugar

Cut thin slice off ends of cucumbers, but do not peel. Cut cucumbers in thin slices. Place in layer on clean cloth. Sprinkle with salt. Cover with clean cloth and weight down with heavy cutting board or pot. Let stand overnight. Next day, rinse quickly and drain. Wrap in cloth and twist cloth to extract most of liquid.

Heat sesame oil in skillet. Add and saute onion until tender. Add pork, soy sauce, green onion and sugar and saute until pork is cooked. Add cucumbers to meat and stir to combine, but do not cook cucumbers. Turn into serving dish. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

99 calories; 714 mg sodium; 14 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.25 grams fiber.

This popular side dish is served in most Korean restaurants.

NAMUL

1 bunch spinach, cleaned

1/2 pound bean sprouts

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

Dash sesame seeds, toasted

Cut off coarse ends of spinach stems. Chop remaining spinach and stems coarsely. Blanch in boiling water 1 minute or until crisp-tender. Drain. Separately blanch bean sprouts 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, until tender-crisp. Drain.

Place spinach and bean sprouts in separate bowls. Add half of soy sauce and sesame oil to each and toss to mix. Adjust seasonings to taste if necessary. Place side by side in serving dish and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

246 calories; 305 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 3.53 grams fiber.