SUMMER LIVING : Vacations in...

At first glance, the deserts of San Diego County can look like barren piles of rocks stretched over a sandy floor. But areas such as 600,000-acre Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, the nation’s largest state park, provide some of the best camping anywhere--particularly in the cooler months.

With its variations in elevation from about 6,000 feet to nearly sea level, Anza-Borrego offers animals in all size ranges, from bighorn sheep (borrego is Spanish for bighorn sheep) to tiny lizards. Rabbits, snakes, foxes, mule deer, mountain lions, foxes, raccoons and about 200 species of birds make the region their home.

Plant life, even in the desert, is abundant. Palm trees, including the only California native palms, Washingtonia filifera, and cacti dominate the landscape. But wildflowers have their day in spring. This year, the viewing was the best it has been in 20 years due to a plentiful rainfall and a buildup of plants made dormant by the recent drought.

Perhaps the best part of desert camping, however, is that so many people believe the desert is too hot and barren. These misperceptions keep visitor numbers down in most sections of the park. (About a million people visited the park last year, most for one day near the park headquarters.) Since camping is permitted virtually anywhere in the park, it is possible to tuck yourself in behind a hill and not see another person for as long as you visit.

HOW TO GET THERE

To reach Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, take California 78 through Julian or California 79 to county roads S2 and S22. Park headquarters are at the west end of Palm Canyon Drive in Borrego Springs. During the summer, which is the off-season in the desert, the center is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends and holidays. From October through May, the center is open weekdays as well. The center offers a slide show, interpretive guides on the Palm Canyon nature trail, literature on desert wildlife and a desert museum.

WHERE TO CAMP

The only places in the park where camping is forbidden are near wildlife water sources and in parts of Coyote Canyon during summer, a measure designed to protect bighorn sheep living in the area. In fact, the park is one of the few places in the United States that allows campers to make camp wherever they want.

There are several campsites that offer various levels of service.

The most developed campground in the park is in Borrego Palm Canyon, adjacent to the visitors center. This is the only site in the state park that offers RV hookups.

Horse Camp, north of Borrego Springs, caters to those on horseback and offers corrals for overnight boarding. Tamarisk Grove, south of town, is a tree-shaded setting with permanent campsites, tap water and flush toilets. Bow Willow, off S2 in the southern area of the park, offers tap water and permanent campsites.

In all, there are half a dozen primitive camping areas, but many people prefer to park their cars just off the road (the law requires that you park no more than a car length off the paved surface) and hike into the interior to set up camp.

The rules of the park generally require that primitive campers leave the area exactly as they found it. Fires are permitted if they are enclosed and if campers haul all of the ash away, a precaution taken to avoid sterilizing the soil with alkali.

People planning to overnight at their own sites should contact the visitors center (767-5311) for weather forecasts.

Reservations at developed campgrounds can be made through Mistix (1 800 444-7275), although they are seldom needed in summer. Fees are $14 a night for a full RV hookup until November, when it goes to $18; $10 for sites without hookups until November, when it goes to $14 a night. At Bow Willow, the fee is $9 in winter, free in summer. At Horse Camp, the fee is $16 year round.

There is an additional $5 charge for more than one vehicle and a $1 a day charge for dogs. Fees can be paid at the ranger check stations at the individual campgrounds. Camping in undeveloped parts of the park is free.

In addition to the state park facilities, there are two desert county parks, neither open in summer. The parks open Labor Day and close for the season on Memorial Day.

Agua Caliente, which has natural hot springs, offers full RV hookups and regular developed campsites. Vallecito Park offers developed campsites but no hookups. The campgrounds are located near each other on S2 south of Borrego Springs.

Reservations are not required, but can be made up to 12 weeks in advance (565-3600). The fee at Vallecito is $8 a night; at Agua Caliente it’s $14 a night for full RV hookup, $12 for partial, $10 for a site with no hookups.

DANGERS

Desert camping does present some unique dangers, but most are easily managed. In fact, the most common dangers to campers are self-created. Most injuries occur when a park visitor drinks too much alcohol and then operates a vehicle or tries to walk down the face of a cliff.

But there are some problems directly related to the environment. One is snakes. There are rattlesnakes in the desert, especially this year. They do not always announce their presence, so hikers must be on the lookout. Always have a snakebite kit handy. Do not use the “cut and suck” method. People have bled to death because they cut too deeply. Use an extractor-type kit.

The heat is the most obvious danger. In summer, when temperatures can soar to 110 degrees or more, campers should imitate the animals and remain relatively inactive during the midday hours, drink plenty of fluids and wear sun protection.

Springtime temperatures are more moderate, hovering in the mid- to high 80s. January and February temperatures are normally in the mid-70s. Nighttime can be quite cold in winter.

It is also vital that you know where you are. Learn how to use a map and compass.

GEAR

Camping in the desert requires simple but crucial equipment. According to Cheryl Thomas, an employee of Adventure 16 Outfitters and an avid desert camper, every desert visitor should carry a number of essentials. These include 2 gallons of water per person per day, waterproof matches or lighter, topographic map, compass, first aid kit including snakebite extraction equipment, whistle or signal mirror, 50 feet of nylon cord, pocket knife, emergency blanket or shelter, extra food and a light jacket for chilly nights. In addition, every desert hiker needs a wide-brimmed hat, long-sleeved shirts, long pants and sunscreen.

Thomas likes down-filled sleeping bags because they offer comfort at a wider range of temperatures.