A SPECIAL REPORT: CHEFS

PRIME CUT: Although it is making something of a comeback, chefs say, beef is still less-than-prime ticket in many of Orange County’s top restaurants. . . . Cost has gone up 8% in a year, and health-minded patrons still favor poultry and seafood, says Todd Clore, above, Hotel Laguna’s chef, who adds that lamb has become a popular good deal. “I like to use less-used cuts. . . . I’m featuring buffalo short ribs next week. Tastes like beef but less fat. Between dietary concerns and costs, you have to branch out.”