Home Improvement : Tile-Setting Now a Do-It-Yourself Project
If the tile counter of your bathroom vanity reminds you of ancient Greece or Rome rather than a bathroom of the ‘90s, it may be time to replace it. There are a variety of tile sizes, colors, patterns and trim pieces to choose from. Grout color and thickness are other variables.
In the past, installing ceramic tile most often was left to a tile mason. The advent of prefabricated mortar board and a profusion of “how-to” information have made tile installation by the homeowner more popular.
Start by removing the existing faucet, sink and tile top. Turn off the angle-stop valves under the sink and, using a pair of channel-lock pliers, disconnect the water supplies and P-trap. The tile and existing wood substrate can be removed with a hammer and a small pry bar. Wear protective eye goggles to avoid injury.
Once the demolition phase is completed, you’re ready to begin your new installation by first measuring, cutting and installing the new plywood rough top. Three-quarter-inch exterior grade plywood will be fine. Cut the plywood even with the finished face of the cabinet. Use 1-5/8-inch bugle-head drywall screws to attach the plywood to the vanity. Pre-drill the faceframe prior to installing the screws to avoid splitting. Next, using a template, mark the location where the sink will be installed and cut out the corresponding hole with a jigsaw. Apply a layer of 15-pound building paper over the plywood top, securing it with a few staples.
The next step for a professional would be to float out a bed of mortar. For the do-it-yourselfer, the prefabricated cement backer board makes the job easier. Measure the backer board to fit precisely over the plywood rough top below. The backer board, which is a half-inch thick, can be cut with a sharp razor knife or by using a circular saw with a masonry blade. If you opt to use the saw, be sure to wear a breather mask since you will encounter an enormous cloud of dust.
Prior to installing the backer board, lay it on top of the plywood rough top and scribe from below the hole cut in the plywood for the sink. Again, use a jigsaw to cut out a hole in the backer board for the sink. Secure the mortar board to the plywood substrate using one-inch galvanized roofing nails or one-inch bugle-head drywall screws. Use the special mesh tape and joint compound sold with the backer board to finish the joints. The nail or screw heads should also be dabbed with a bit of the joint compound. Allow the compound to dry overnight.
Start the tiling process by laying out the trim pieces. An outside corner is an easy place to start. Irregular trim pieces should be marked and cut with a tile cutter, which can be rented for about $10 a day. Next, lay the field tile out with the appropriate-size rubber spacers and mark and cut each piece as necessary. The rubber spacers help to keep the joints aligned and uniform in width. The most challenging pieces to fit will be those that surround the opening for the sink. In addition to the tile cutter you may find that using a pair of tile nippers will make custom cuts far easier.
Once all of the pieces have been pre-cut to fit, remove them and, using a 1/8-inch notched trowel, apply the thinset mortar adhesive to the backer board. With a margin trowel or butter trowel spread a small amount of mortar on the back side of each piece. Place the tile, starting with the trim pieces followed by the field tile, being sure to use spacers between each piece. The tile splash can be applied directly to the wall by using a small amount of mortar with each piece.
Allow the tile to set about 24 hours and then apply the grout. If the joints are less than 1/8 inch, use unsanded grout. If 1/8 inch or larger, use sanded. Mix the grout according to the directions and apply it with a rubber grout float working in a diagonal direction. Excess grout should be removed with a damp sponge. Apply an acrylic or silicone-based tile and grout sealer to the entire tile and grout surface after the grout has cured for a couple of weeks.
Finish the job by installing a new self-rimming sink and decorative faucet. Reconnect the water supply lines, install a new P-trap and open the shut-off valves.
Refacing Plastic Laminate Cabinets
Q: Yuk! We just moved into a house with bright yellow and green plastic laminate cabinets and walls. We can’t afford to replace all of these at the present time. Is there anything that we can use to paint over the plastic laminate? Please help us tone down our kitchen.
A: Although there are now some paint manufacturers who claim that they have paints that can be used successfully over plastic laminates, our experience suggests otherwise.
Due to the dense composition and non-porous finish of plastic laminate, paint will not properly adhere and will usually end up chipping and peeling. This is especially true of horizontal surfaces such as kitchen countertops that get a lot of use.
Your best bet is to replace the countertop with a new one or install ceramic tile over the existing top. You can reface the laminate cabinets with a new laminate or wood veneer and install new doors. That should help make your kitchen more mellow than yellow.
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