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SPOTLIGHT : CATCH YOUR ZZZs BY THE SEAS : Camp Out on the Beach, Why Dontcha?

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<i> Rick VanderKnyff is a free-lance writer who regularly contributes to The Times Orange County Edition. </i>

They come in waves, in their Winnebagos and campers and fifth-wheel trailers, and the biggest wave is set to crash on local beach campgrounds this weekend.

Labor Day marks high tide for the summer camping season, when the out-of-towners jockey for precious camping sites and their chance to spend a few days and nights on the beaches we locals take for granted.

So what if the campgrounds are often closer to the freeway than to the water, if there are no trees and no privacy? So what if, in describing the experience, the word parking comes closer to the truth than camping ?

The point is not getting close to unadulterated nature, but getting close to the waves. This is no wilderness experience, it’s the weekend warrior’s condensed version of the Endless Summer: Play at the beach all day, roast hot dogs over a fire at sunset, maybe go for a late-night swim, and wake up the next morning and do it all over again.

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Orange County’s beach campgrounds are immensely popular--in a typical year, about half a million people stay at San Onofre, San Clemente and Doheny state beaches alone. In summer, weekend sites at the choice campgrounds can disappear the day they become available for reservations, and even weeknights can be fully booked weeks in advance.

But after this weekend, the tide of tourists begins to recede, and the scramble for sites becomes a bit less hectic. From here until next summer, locals have a chance to learn what tourists have known all along: Camping along the coast does have its charms.

The local waters can stay warm enough for at least a quick dip as late as November. After that, they won’t begin to heat up again until March, but sweater weather’s no reason to stay away. A walk along a deserted beach on a blustery day--or night--can be an almost transcendental experience.

Also, for locals, weeknight beach camping means not having to take time off from work. On more than one occasion, I’ve driven straight from a day at the office to one of the beaches with nothing more than a sleeping bag, a takeout dinner and a change of clothes. The next morning, I shower at the campsite and head to work as usual.

The payoff is quality quiet time--South County beaches are virtually deserted on fall and winter nights--and a welcome break in the workday routine.

In all, there are eight camping areas within a mile or so of the coast, including the two campgrounds at San Onofre State Beach (just south of the county line). The camping opportunities range widely from straight overnight parking for self-contained RVs at Bolsa Chica State Beach and Huntington City Beach to secluded walk-in sites at Crystal Cove State Park and at San Onofre.

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Here is a site-by-site list of the areas, cruising north to south along the county coast.

A quick note on reservations: Most of the state-run areas listed below are on the Mistix phone reservation system. Reservations at these state parks can be made between eight weeks and 24 hours before the date of arrival. The non-refundable reservation fee is $3.95 per campsite (in addition to the campground fees listed).

* Bolsa Chica State Beach

The camping area here is literally a parking lot. Until recently it was open only for “en route” camping (overnight parking) but now it’s available for longer stays. There are no tent sites; the camping area is strictly for “self-contained” camping vehicles (those with cooking, sleeping and toilet facilities).

For folks who own such vehicles, this is a chance to park at one of the county’s best swimming and surfing beaches. Weekend reservations are especially advisable if you have a motor home or trailer more than 26 feet long. It’s usually possible to get a weeknight site without a reservation.

What: Asphalt camping for 63 self-contained vehicles. No electrical or water hookups or sewage disposal. Restrooms, fire rings, outside showers available.

Where: 17851 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach.

Whereabouts: From Warner Avenue, turn left on Pacific Coast Highway and head south one mile to the entrance of Bolsa Chica State Beach.

Wherewithal: $14 a night.

Where to call: For reservations, call Mistix, (800) 444-7275; for information, call (714) 846-3460.

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* Huntington City Beach

From June 1 to Sept. 14, the beach’s Sunset Vista parking lot is open to “en route” camping only. People with self-contained camping vehicles can check in between 6 and 11 p.m. and must be out by 8 the next morning. Camping is for one night only--the whole point is to give RV travelers a place to park for the night and then move on. Sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis, with no reservations accepted.

Beginning Sept. 15 and continuing through May 31, the facility is open to long term camping (up to 15 nights within a month). Reservations can be made in person at the camping facility booth at the entrance to the lot, or by mail.

What: Overnight parking for 50 self-contained RVs from June 1 to Sept. 14; longer-term camping for about 100 RVs from Sept. 15 to May 31. Sewage disposal, restrooms, fire rings, outside showers available. No electrical or water hookups.

Where: 103 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach.

Whereabouts: From Beach Boulevard, turn right on Pacific Coast Highway. Turn left into the municipal parking facility at 1st Street.

Wherewithal: $15 a night.

Where to call: (714) 969-5621.

* Newport Dunes Aquatic Park

This is a privately run resort on Newport Bay that offers more than 400 sites with full RV hookups and services available. In addition to a private swimming beach, the park offers campers such extras as tennis courts, a swimming pool, a grocery store, laundry facilities and water sports rentals. The price tag for all the luxuries, however, is relatively steep.

What: 408 camping sites with full RV hookups and a variety of recreational facilities.

Where: 1131 Backbay Drive, Newport Beach.

Whereabouts: From Jamboree Road, turn onto Backbay Drive and left into the resort.

Wherewithal: $25 to $50 per night, depending on the size and location of the site.

Where to call: (714) 729-3863.

* Crystal Cove State Park

OK, so this isn’t technically beach camping, but we’ll tell you about it anyway. Crystal Cove State Park does stretch down to the beach, but the camping areas are tucked away in the oak-lined canyons on the inland side of the park. Open now for about three years, these sites fall into the well-kept-secret category.

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There are three camping areas, each with four or five tent sites. Each is about three miles from the parking area at El Moro Canyon, so you’ll have to get there by means that don’t involve the internal combustion engine. Deer Canyon is open to equestrians; Lower Moro Ridge and Upper Moro Ridge are open to hikers and bicyclists.

Because of fire danger, open fires and even camping stoves are prohibited in the park. No water is available. The payoff is solitude, gorgeous scenery (with views of the Pacific below) and the closest thing to a wilderness camping experience that Orange County offers.

Reservations rarely are needed here. The fee can be paid at the ranger station upon entry.

What: 15 remote camping sites, with pit toilets.

Where: 8471 Coast Highway, Laguna Beach.

Whereabouts: Take Coast Highway south from Newport Beach and turn left into the El Moro Canyon parking area at Crystal Cove State Park.

Wherewithal: $9 a night.

Where to call: (714) 494-3539.

* Doheny State Beach

This may be the county’s premier beach camping spot. Unlike the bluff-top campgrounds at San Clemente and San Onofre state beaches, the sites here are on the same level as the beach, with a few choice spots right on the edge of the sand. There also are a number of sites that border the mouth of San Juan Creek, with unobstructed views of the abundant bird life there.

The campground’s 121 spaces are packed tightly and offer little in the way of privacy, but that’s the price for being right on the beach. The park offers both tent and RV sites. Nature programs are offered in the summer months.

During the official peak season at Doheny, which extends through Sept. 30, campsites are assigned on a lottery basis as you enter the park (when you make a Mistix reservation, you can specify the type of site you want but not the exact site number). Weekends at Doheny are likely to be booked solid in advance through November, so get reservations.

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What: 121 campsites for tents and RVs. Restrooms, showers, barbecue rings, RV sewage and water dump stations, small camp store available. No electrical or water hookups.

Where: 25300 Dana Point Harbor Drive, Dana Point.

Whereabouts: From Interstate 5, take the Camino las Ramblas exit to Coast Highway south. Turn left on Dana Point Harbor Drive and left again on Street of the Park Lantern.

Wherewithal: $21 for beachfront sites, $16 for others.

Where to call: For reservations, call Mistix, (800) 444-7275; for information, call (714) 496-6172.

* San Clemente State Beach

This bluff-top campground overlooks a narrow but scenic and relatively remote stretch of beach, accessible by two short but steep trails. There is a group camping area, something not offered at Doheny.

Of 160 individual sites, 72 offer electrical and water hookups for RVs, and there is a sewage dump station. 88 tent sites are nearby. Like Doheny, this is an extremely popular campground, so it’s best to get reservations for weekends, even in the off-season.

What: 72 RV and 88 tent camping sites. Electrical and water hookups for RVs, sewage dump station, restrooms and showers, barbecue rings available.

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Where: 225 Avenida Calafia, San Clemente.

Whereabouts: From Interstate 5, take the Cristianitos Road exit west to Avenida del Presidente north. Turn left on Avenida Calafia and left again into the park.

Wherewithal: $20 for RV sites, $16 for tent sites.

Where to call: For reservations, call Mistix, (800) 444-7275; for information, call (714) 492-3156.

* San Onofre State Beach

This park offers more than 200 bluff-top sites, strung out along more than three miles of abandoned highway. The advantage of the arrangement is that the campsites are not as tightly packed as at Doheny and San Clemente; the downside is the noise coming from nearby Interstate 5, which the park road parallels.

Note for choosing a site: All are within roughly equal distance of the beach (paths are set at regular intervals) but some spaces do not have a view of the water because of road-cuts. Ask for a site with a view.

This park rarely fills up except on some summer weekends, so it can be a solid alternative to the parks at Doheny and San Clemente. Also, in addition to the regular sites, walk-in sites are set below the bluff-tops in a natural amphitheater (these may be the nicest beach camping sites in the area). There are also “en route” overnight parking spots.

What: 221 car camping sites, 26 walk-in sites, 20 overnight parking sites. Restrooms, showers, fire rings.

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Where: Basilone Road, San Diego County.

Whereabouts: From Interstate 5, take the Basilone exit and head south, past the power plant.

Wherewithal: $16 (walk-in sites, available only on a first-come, first-served basis, are $3 a night).

Where to call: For reservations, call Mistix, (800) 444-7275; for information, (714) 492-4872.

* San Onofre State Beach (San Mateo Campground)

This one isn’t on the beach either. It’s set on the edge of Camp Pendleton at the foot of a long, broad and relatively undeveloped canyon. A one-mile trail leads to the ocean, a short bike ride or a longish walk.

The campground is only about 2 years old. The 160 campsites here are set a comfortable distance apart and, when the trees mature, should offer ample privacy.

What: 160 tent and RV sites. Showers, restrooms, fire rings, RV dump station.

Where: Cristianitos Road, San Diego County.

Whereabouts: From Interstate 5, take Cristianitos Road east for one mile and turn right into the park.

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Wherewithal: $16.

Where to call: For reservations, call Mistix, (800) 444-7275; for information, (714) 492-4872.

ON THE BEACH

Orange County has six coastal camping spots, plus two just over the border in San Diego County, ranging from RV parking lots to remote walk-in sites. See story for details on the camping areas listed below. 1- Bolsa Chica State Beach 2- Huntington City Beach 3- Newport Dunes Aquatic Park 4- Crystal Cove State Beach 5- Doheny State Beach 6- San Clemente State Beach 7- San Onofre State Beach 8- San Onofre State Beach (San Mateo Campground) Source: California State Parks & Recreation Department

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