Translations: Cooking by the Books

Shop for cookbooks in Tijuana and you’ll come away with some fascinating volumes and terrific recipes. The catch is, you have to read enough Spanish to translate them.

That’s no problem for Spanish-speaking Latinos or for those who’ve taken a language course. But if you can’t even say “ gracias ,” there is one book that will introduce you to some unusual and authentic dishes. “Buen Provecho,” a bilingual Mexican cookbook that turned up during a canvass of several bookstores in Tijuana, was compiled by the Junior League of Mexico City. It contains recipes, glossaries that explain Mexican ingredients and other useful material both in Spanish and in English.

Unfortunately, we only found the book in a single shop--Libreria de Cristal in Plaza Rio Tijuana. That’s the fun--and frustration--of cookbook shopping below the border. Stock varies from shop to shop, and the prized volume you find in one store may be the only copy in town. (“Bueno Provecho” is also available by mail. Write to the Junior League of Mexico City, Cookbook Committee, P.O. Box 10-840, Mexico 10, D. F., Mexico for instructions on ordering a copy.)

It was gratifying to see that some old classics are still around. We found a few modern, spiral-bound editions of works by the late Josefina Velazquez de Leon, who founded a cooking school (the Academia Velazquez de Leon in Mexico City), codified recipes from all over the country and produced dozens of books, including the bilingual “Mexican Cookbook Devoted to American Homes,” which is an invaluable guide for newcomers to Mexican cookery.

Contemporary exponents of serious Mexican cuisine include the artist Martha Chapa, whose handsomely illustrated “La Cocina Mexicana y su Arte” (Mexican Cooking and Art) is at Sanborn’s in downtown Tijuana.

A small softcover book, “El Sabor del Sueno” (“The Flavor of Dreams”) contains Chapa’s essays on dreams along with imaginative recipes including mushroom quiche with epazote , goat cheese tacos garnished with shrimp, and pears poached with piloncillo (brown sugar) and tequila.

Another good find was “La Tradicional Cocina Mexicana y sus Mejores Recetas” (“Traditional Mexican Cooking and Its Best Recipes”) by Adela Fernandez, daughter of the noted film director, Emilio Fernandez. Introductory chapters describe the ornate cooking and elite gatherings at the Fernandez home, outline the history of Mexican cuisine and provide tips on what to serve for major holidays. The place of origin accompanies each dish.

(Interestingly, two recipes in the book are similar, at least in name, to dishes served at Fogo’s, a new, upscale restaurant in Tijuana. They are filete enchocolatado (beef with chocolate sauce), which Fernandez attributes to Oaxaca, and sopa “no te rajes Adelita ,” a cheese soup from Chihuahua.)

Arturo Lomeli’s “El Arte de Cocinar con Chile” (“The Art of Cooking With Chiles”) tells almost everything you’d want to know about this quintessential Mexican condiment. The 200 recipes range from authentic mole Poblano (Puebla-style mole ) as prepared at four convents in Puebla to innovative creations like spaghetti with ancho chile sauce.

Heriberto Garcia Rivas’ “Cocina Prehispanica Mexicana” (“Pre-Hispanic Mexican Cuisine”) does not contain recipes, but it does give a lot of information about how dishes are made. Rivas tells us that most of Mexico’s pre-Hispanic foods are still in use today, prepared as they were in the past. We also learn that the word barbecue ( barbacoa ) originated with the Mayans and means to cook by indirect heat rather than to grill American-style directly over the coals.

Jose N. Iturriaga de la Fuente’s “De Tacos, Tamales y Tortas” (“About Tacos, Tamales and Tortas”) does not contain recipes either, but it will make you hungry with its appetizing color photographs of such snacks as huaraches, gorditas and flautas as well as those named in the title. You’ll be amazed at the way tamales vary from place to place, and you’ll learn about such things as tacos sudados, precooked tacos that vendors deliver from cloth-lined baskets.

For solid, down-to-earth cooking, look for the series “. . . Y La Comida Se Hizo” from Editorial Trillas. Topics for individual volumes include easy dishes, quick cooking, economical dishes, party cooking, healthful recipes, well-balanced foods, cooking for two, cheese dishes and candies and desserts. Each dish is photographed in color, and large type makes the recipes easy to read. Furthermore, the books have interesting introductions illustrated in color. The party book, “Para Celebrar” (Volume 4 in the series), discusses recent trends in Mexican cooking with the aid of paintings of Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, Frida Kahlo and others. This series is widely distributed, and you’ll find a volume or two at most shops.

A Few Good Bookstores:

* Libreria de Cristal, Plaza Rio Tijuana. 84-01-51.

* Sanborn’s, Avenida Revolucion, downtown Tijuana. Phone: 85-26-66.

* El Dia, 1908 6th St., downtown Tijuana. Phone: 85-18-45.

* El Dia, 61-A Avenida, Sanchez Taboada, Rio shopping district. 84-09-08.

* Large supermarket/department stores that also stock cookbooks include Commercial Mexicana in Plaza Rio Tijuana and Ley on Boulevard Agua Caliente heading toward La Mesa.

The following recipes come from the books mentioned above. Together, the dishes make an unusual Mexican dinner. Serve either the Chicken Breasts With Corn or the Beef in Chocolate Sauce as the main dish.

CREMA FRIA DE ALMENDRA AL CHIPOTLE

(Cold Almond Soup With Chipotle Chile from “El Sabor del Sueno”)

2 tablespoons almond oil

1 onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 1/2 cups blanched almonds

2 quarts defatted chicken broth

1 canned chipotle chile, seeded

1 cup whipping cream

Salt

White pepper

3/4 cup blanched almonds, toasted and chopped

Heat almond oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic and cook until lightly browned. Add blanched almonds and saute but do not allow to turn color. Place mixture in blender, add 1 quart chicken broth and chile and blend until smooth. Incorporate remaining broth and cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Chill thoroughly. At serving time, sprinkle with toasted almonds. Makes 10 servings.

Each serving contains about:

336 calories; 663 mg sodium; 33 mg cholesterol; 30 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.97 gram fiber.

FILETE ENCHOCOLATADO

(Beef in Chocolate Sauce from “La Tradicional Cocina Mexicana”)

1 (2-pound) piece beef tenderloin

Salt, pepper

3 tablespoons butter

1/2 onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 cup white wine

1 cup water

1 ounce unsweetened chocolate

1/2 pound queso fresco, crumbled

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Season beef to taste with salt and pepper. Fry in butter until browned. Add onion, garlic, wine and water. Cover and simmer over gentle heat about 15 minutes. Add chocolate and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes longer.

At serving time, slice meat, pour sauce over and sprinkle with cheese. Broil to melt cheese. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

416 calories; 375 mg sodium; 119 mg cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 34 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

PECHUGAS CON ELOTE

(Chicken Breasts With Corn from “. . . Y La Comida Se Hizo, Volume 4”)

6 boneless chicken breast halves

Oil

Salt, pepper

3 tablespoons margarine

1 tablespoon flour

1 cup milk

Kernels from 3 ears corn, cooked

2 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled and cut into strips

1/2 cup shredded Jack cheese

Wash chicken breasts and pat dry. Lightly brown in about 2 tablespoons oil. Discard skin. Place chicken in oven-proof dish and season to taste with salt and pepper. Melt margarine in saucepan and stir in flour. Slowly add milk and cook and stir until thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place chicken in single layer in oven-proof serving dish. Top with chile strips, corn kernels and white sauce. Then add cheese. Bake at 350 degrees about 25 minutes. Do not allow chicken to dry out. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

329 calories; 291 mg sodium; 96 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 39 grams protein; 0.59 gram fiber.

ESPAGUETTI CON CHILE ANCHO

(Spaghetti With Ancho Chiles from “El Arte de Cocinar Con Chile”)

5 dried ancho chiles, deveined, seeded, stemmed

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon corn oil

1 medium head garlic, peeled, finely chopped

10 sprigs parsley, finely chopped

3/4 pound spaghetti

6 tablespoons margarine or butter

Salt

Wash ancho chiles thoroughly. Remove veins, seeds and stems and cut into very thin slices with scissors. Heat 1/2 cup oil, add garlic and cook until golden but not browned. Add chiles and fry until tender. Lower heat, add parsley and stir.

Cook spaghetti in boiling salted water with 1 tablespoon oil until al dente. Drain. Immediately add chile mixture and margarine and combine. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

493 calories; 172 mg sodium; 31 mg cholesterol; 30 grams fat; 48 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.03 grams fiber.

RAJAS

(Chile Strips With Sour Cream and Cheese from “Buen Provecho”)

2 tablespoons oil

6 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, deveined and cut into strips

1 large onion, sliced

3 cloves garlic, chopped

3 tomatoes, roasted and coarsely chopped

3 to 4 sprigs epazote

Salt

1 cup sour cream

1 cup queso anejo (Mexican aged cheese)

Heat oil in large skillet. Add chile strips, onion and garlic and cook until onion is tender. Add tomatoes and epazote and season to taste with salt. Simmer just until tomatoes are tender.

At serving time, top with sour cream and cheese. If desired, broil until cheese is melted. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

153 calories; 131 mg sodium; 24 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.01 grams fiber.

PURISIMAS

(Ground Almond Candies from “. . . Y La Comida Se Hizo, Volume 7”)

3/4 cup almonds

1 egg yolk

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

Additional sugar

Pour boiling water over almonds and let stand 5 minutes. Drain and peel. Place in blender with egg yolk, almond extract and enough water to facilitate blending, about 5 tablespoons. Blend until very fine.

Combine 1 cup sugar, corn syrup and 1/4 cup water in saucepan, bring to boil and cook to form light syrup. Add almond mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture separates when spoon is drawn across bottom of pan, about 18 minutes. Cool to lukewarm, then form into balls about 1 1/4 inches in diameter. Roll balls in sugar and place in individual paper cups. Makes about 15.

Each serving contains about:

112 calories; 1 mg sodium; 18 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.17 gram fiber.