Fashion Renewal, Italian Style
THE MOVIE: “Enchanted April.”
THE SCENE: Four women seek a respite from their variously unfulfilled London lives and decide to vacation together in a castle in Italy for one glorious spring month. In doing so, their lives are enhanced in myriad ways. Lottie Wilkins (Josie Lawrence) plots the scheme with a neighbor, Rose Arbuthnot (Miranda Richardson), and two others--Lady Caroline Dester (Polly Walker) and Mrs. Fisher (Joan Plowright)--agree to share the rent.
THE COSTUME DESIGNER: Sheena Napier, formerly a designer for the BBC.
THE LOOK: Depressed, initially. How do you dress depressed in the early 1920s? Button your big-collared wool coat to the top and wear the drabbest shades of brown, black and muddy blue. Deep-brimmed hats with floral trims--virtually identical to the ones popular today--can’t even perk these women up. The exception is Lady Caroline, whose unique problem is that she looks chic in spite of herself in numbers like a fur cocoon coats and a feathered dressing gown.
With the temperate Mediterranean climate comes a fashion renewal. Call it post-Edwardian resort-wear. Dresses are ankle-length and easy, unconstructed sheaths, some with a mere suggestion of a waistline. The palette itself is a spiritual vacation--earthy terra cottas, apricots, yellows and whites. Even the widowed Mrs. Fisher lightens up with a warm red paisley shawl. Note that the long amber beads, fringed shawls and baggy dresses worn by Lottie and Rose are more early Bohemian than high society. Only wealthy Caroline would sunbathe in designer-label goods, including an actual Grecian-style white Vionnet dress.
QUOTED: “To be quite honest, half of them were wearing thermals and hot water bottles. It was freezing,” said Napier of the springtime-in-Portofino location.
TRY THIS AT HOME: Less-than-Greek figures aren’t celebrated in movies too often, but Lottie’s scene frolicking in a knee-length bathing suit makes lumps and bumps look perfectly acceptable.
THE RESEARCH: Napier perused books, newspaper clippings, photographs and clothing in sources such as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Bath Museum of Costumes.
THE SOURCES: Many costumes, including the Vionnets worn by Caroline, were rented from London and Paris costume houses. Napier designed all of Lottie’s and Rose’s clothes, always incorporating original lace and trims, and copies of old silks. Even the hats are retrimmed antiques.
