STYLE : LOOKS : Raising Eyebrows
Just as the death of the shoulder pad marked the end of a fashion era, the demise of the big brow completes a chapter in the history of beauty. But is the new delicate arch a mere fashion whim? Or, like the theory that short skirts signal economic prosperity, does it mean something?
There’s no shortage to the speculation. According to Chinese phrenologists, fame, ambition and achievement are foretold by an arched brow. The high brow can also symbolize a reach for the cerebral side of life, a shift toward the seat of intellect and away from the sensual, devouring mouth of the ‘80s. It’s even possible that in these tough economic times, women may simply be looking for a way to literally (and inexpensively) give themselves a lift.
Whatever the case, eyebrows are--and always have been--a mark of glamour. The haunting allure of the great beauties of the past--Marlene Dietrich, Coco Chanel and Lisa Fonssagrives among them--was underscored by their idiosyncratic eyebrows. Picking up where they left off are pop stars Madonna and Jody Watley and, of course, supermodels such as Naomi Campbell and Yasmeen Ghauri, shown here.
“The new popularity of arched brows is here because the big models--Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington--had their brows tweezed,” says makeup artist Jocelyn Zayco, who has raised brows for numerous models and actresses as well as clients at C.E.N.T.R.E. salon in Woodland Hills. Zayco aims for “a graceful, rounded arch” as opposed to the heavily plucked, pencil-thin line of the ‘30s.
There’s a reason for this caution: Eyebrows don’t always grow back. “When young girls with Brooke Shields eyebrows come in and want them really plucked, I decline,” says Sharon Ladman-Bitterman of Club Prive Salon in Beverly Hills. “You can always lift a heavy brow by light shaping at the bottom, and then bleaching if necessary--not by overplucking.” Ladman-Bitterman finds that tinting brows, then shaping them with waxing and light tweezing, gives the most naturally glamorous look.
Day-to-day grooming is a breeze with a few simple tools. Makeup artists favor filling in brows with powdered color--easier to control than pencil--applied with a fine, angled brush. (Cutting an eyeliner brush at an angle produces an ideal tool.) And dried-out mascara wands (Chanel is a favorite) are excellent for brushing the newly defined brow. A finishing touch of eyebrow sealer or clear mascara keeps brows in place and elegantly arched for hours.
A monochromatic makeup palette is still popular, and with less color on the lid, the artistic shaping of the features takes on renewed importance. The arched brow gives needed definition to the face. Above all, a carefully detailed brow is a simple way to feel finished. “It’s a psychological thing,” Zayco says. “When you’ve got beautiful brows--and a touch of color on the lips--you don’t need a lot of other makeup. You’re done. “
