Dresden Recaptures Some of Its Former Beauty : Like a phoenix, this former East German city has slowly risen from the ashes of World War II.

Thanks in part to the 18th-Century Italian artist Antonio Canaletto’s masterful paintings of this sublime city, Dresden is once again taking its place as one of the most--if not the most--beautiful towns in all of Germany.

On the nights of Feb. 13-15, 1945, Britain’s Royal Air Force bombers came very close to obliterating Dresden’s Old Town, starting a firestorm that inflicted more damage here than on any other German city, and reducing eight centuries of glorious architecture to mere rubble. Forty-five years of Russian occupation and relative indifference did little to help restore this “Florence of the Elbe,” as it has been described, to the artistic heights it had known from the early 18th Century until World War II.

Many European cities noted for their beauty have an artistic focal point, some building, plaza, boulevard or other center of interest that captures the senses and imagination immediately. Dresden’s Old Town defies such focusing; there is another breathtaking vista at practically every turn of its cobbled streets.

Getting settled in: The Konigstein, a modern hotel in a newer section of the city, is utilitarian in every respect, with small bedrooms simply furnished and a restaurant serving very good buffet breakfasts. Two clones of the Konigstein are on either side (the Lilienstein and Bastei, same prices and amenities), and all share a location on the pedestrian-only Prager Strasse shopping avenue.

Hotel Schloss Eckberg is an 1859 neo-Gothic castle with turrets, towers and all the rest of it set in 37 acres of beautiful parkland just outside town. There are two restaurants and terrace dining, with a wonderful view of Dresden below. Public rooms are very baronial, while bedrooms are on the small side with period decor. There is also a separate and large annex in more contemporary style, for a total of 85 rooms.

Regional food and drink: A cursory look at Dresden or any other eastern German menu reveals few surprises or differences from menus in other parts of the country. Yet Dresden and all of Saxony are justly famous for their hearty kartoffelsuppen (potato soups) and the Dresdener sauerbraten (beef marinated in wine and herbs), served here with red cabbage, giant dumplings sprinkled with browned crumbs, and sauteed apples on the side. The wurst here is as good as one finds anywhere in Germany, and seasonal game and fresh fish are plentiful.

Good local dining: Throughout Germany, many a town Rathaus (city hall) has an excellent restaurant in the cellar where one enjoys regional food at friendly prices. The Dresden Ratskeller (Dr. Kuelz Ring 19) is a fine example. Its long rooms with vaulted ceilings are contemporary in style but the food very traditional. The Saxony potato soup with meat dumplings and mushrooms is $2.95, while the Dresdener sauerbraten, with red cabbage cooked with apples and served with Saxony dumplings, goes for $11. Krautwickel (meat-stuffed cabbage leaves), with potatoes and bacon gravy ($9.50), is a big favorite.

Going first-class: There’s a choice between two excellent hotels very close to the center of Old Town. Hotel Bellevue is the town’s Grand Dame, traditional in decor but with a fine indoor pool and every modern amenity. The Dresden Hilton is superb and also has an indoor pool, several restaurants, cafes and a cellar dining room.

On your own: The Zwinger, built in 1710 and considered Germany’s most perfect example of late-Baroque architecture, is a series of pavilions with art works, statuary, porcelain, antique arms and other treasures. Due to renovations, the Zwinger’s collection of Old Masters--including a room each of Rembrandt and Rubens--is in the nearby Albertinum Museum.

Try to obtain tickets for any performance at the Semper Opera House, where several of Richard Wagner’s operas were premiered, and nine of Richard Strauss’. The interior is just as magnificent as the exterior.

GUIDEBOOK

Delights of Dresden

Getting there: From Los Angeles, Lufthansa, most major U.S. airlines and several other foreign carriers fly to Frankfurt, then take Lufthansa on to Dresden. An advance-purchase, round-trip fare to Frankfurt on Lufthansa costs $498 for travel starting Dec. 25. Lufthansa and Delta offer LAX-to-Dresden service for $902. The Lufthansa fare from Frankfurt to Dresden is $179 round trip.

A few fast facts: Germany’s deutsch mark recently sold for 1.52 to the dollar, about 66 cents each.

Where to stay: Hotel Konigstein (Prager Strasse; $97-$127 double B&B;, the same rates for the Lilienstein and Bastei hotels, on either side of the Konigstein); Schloss Eckberg (Bautzner Strasse 134; $130-$169 double B&B;); Bellevue (Grosse Meissner Strasse 15; $259 double); Hilton (An der Frauenkirche 5; $217 double).

For more information: Call the German National Tourist Office at (310) 575-9799, or write (11766 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 750, Los Angeles 90025) for a brochure on Dresden and information on travel throughout Germany, including the former East Germany.