Rack ‘Em Up : House of Billiards in Sherman Oaks is a throwback to the days when pool players didn’t have to worry about cigarette ashes on the floor. The cue sticks may not all run true, but the price is right.

The suburbs can seem, at times, entirely plastic and aluminum. If not quite immaculate, they can be distressingly tidy. In such environs, it’s tough to find an establishment with enough history--and physical decay--to qualify as a joint.

House of Billiards is one such place. Ironically, it sits on Ventura Boulevard in tony Sherman Oaks among such stamp-cut outlets as L’Express Restaurant and The Gap. Old-style signs on the brick facade depict men in tuxedos and promise: “Billiards in the Grand Manor.” Don’t be misled.

This is no haven for the recent billiards craze, the torn-jean-and-earring crowd that frequents the Hollywood Athletic Club to play for $14 an hour. It’s not a place to be seen because there are no windows that look onto the street. There are no windows at all. This is a smoky pool hall in the best tradition, the kind of place where you can ash your cigarette on the burgundy carpet without fear of recrimination. Decrepit, no. Atmospheric, yes.

“It smells like they spilled beer and never cleaned it up,” said one semi-regular in a reverential tone.

The crowd at House of Billiards comes in all possible shapes and demeanors. The front tables, the ones by the bar, are likely to be occupied by pool sharks--at least, they look like sharks in their slacks and plain shirts, their decidedly unfashionable Windbreakers. Heavy-metal kids play here, wearing long bleached hair and T-shirts with the sleeves cut off. There is also a younger crowd of high school kids on dates or messing around with buddies.

The tables are not always as green as spring, nor do all the cue sticks run true. But the space resonates with thunderclap breaks and the fragile click of touch shots. There is a mumbling of called shots and occasional curses. You can envision a young Paul Newman walking in the door.

Indeed, newspaper stories have suggested that gambling occurs on the premises, and for that reason the pool hall’s management politely declines to speak to the press. There may or may not be such activities at House of Billiards. Casual players aren’t confronted with such goings-on. The room is casual enough--and, yes, clean enough--to appeal to anyone.

So customers arrive in a steady stream. On a Friday or Saturday night, they wait for two hours to get a table. The queue can be almost as long on some weeknights. Players sit in the bar--or the cordoned area that passes for a bar--drinking beers and chatting until their turn arrives. House of Billiards sells a darn fine stick of beef jerky and the candy machine stocks 5th Avenue bars. There’s also a jukebox with Jim Morrison and Frank Sinatra. What more do you need?

Best of all, House of Billiards is relatively cheap. In the evenings, two people can play for $7.25 an hour. Daytime rates are even lower.

Here’s a hint for the impatient: If you can’t get there before the evening rush and can’t stand to wait, try L.A. Society Billiards on Ventura Boulevard near Corbin. This is a newer room, clean with bright green felt on the tables. It lacks the charm and, well, aroma of House of Billiards, but it also lacks the waiting.

Where and When Location: House of Billiards, 14662 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Hours: 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily. Price: $3.50 for two players before 6 p.m., $7.25 after 6 p.m. Call: (818) 501-9923.