Nassau, Gateway to Paradise, Offers Color and Character

Just across the harbor from Paradise Island on New Providence Island is Nassau, the Bahamian capital, a funky, crowded market town that provides a reality check for vacationers who may’ve spent too many hours in the Paradise casino.

Winners will have a chance to spend plenty of dollars on Omegas and Rolexes in the Bay Street jewelry shops, on small flagons of Shalimar perfume or on Hummel figurines or Royal Doulton china. And duty-free liquor is probably Nassau’s most popular export after T-shirts.

Losers can bargain for hats, baskets and handbags at the famous straw market off Bay Street.

Downtown Nassau’s got color, character (and characters) and variety, and it’s a short taxi or ferry hop from Paradise.

New Providence Island’s English heritage dates from the days it became a British colony in 1666. Nassau has a parliament complete with bewigged members; the policemen are turned out in formal white jackets and pith helmets; the locals love cricket and rugby, and the gardens are lovingly tended in the English style. One of the island’s most popular pubs, the Pick-a-Dilly across from Parliament, is right out of Covent Garden, with Courage ale on tap.

The old town--population about 100,000--has a pink and white Government House worth seeing at Market and Duke Streets plus the National Historical Museum nearby (open Tuesday and Wednesday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.).

Nassau’s restaurants are tonier--but not more expensive--than their Paradise Island counterparts. Two to note are Graycliff, a former private home owned by a duke that features Bahamian seafood prepared with a continental touch (West Hill Street, 809-322-2796), and Buena Vista, which has Victorian tearoom atmosphere and an elaborate menu (Delancy Street, 809- 322-2811).

Folks on a budget can fill up on ribs at Tony Roma’s on the Nassau side of the bridge or snack at Coco’s Cafe on Marlborough Street, which has excellent fried grouper.

During the daytime small ferryboats shuttle from Paradise Island--from the bridge and from the end of Casuarina Drive--about every 20 minutes. The fare is $2 and includes terrific views of whatever cruise ships happen to be at Prince George Dock. In the evening, a taxi to town is about $7 one way, but tourists should be circumspect about wandering Nassau on foot after dark.