YEAR OF THE ROOSTER : The Chinese celebrate many festivals, but none is as important as the first day of the first month of the lunar calendar.

It could be said that the celebration of the Chinese New Year started with a bad vacation. A Chinese household deity came down to Earth for a visit and didn’t like what he saw: sin and corruption. Offended, he returned to heaven and demanded that the Jade Emperor destroy the planet.

When the other gods heard of his plea, they defended mankind, entreating the emperor to visit Earth and decide for himself. Forewarned of the visit, the people on Earth tidied up their affairs and set out lavish offerings for the supreme rulers. Impressed by the sumptuous display, the Jade Emperor called off the destruction of the world.

The Chinese celebrate many festivals throughout the year, but none is as important as the first day of the first month of the lunar calendar, otherwise known as the spring festival. This year it will be celebrated Saturday.

According to the lunar calendar, that date marks the beginning of the Year of the Rooster, and in Chinese homes it will be a time for feasting and celebration.

In the home, the Chinese New Year signifies reunion, as the entire family gathers to honor their ancestors and to eat and drink. In the workplace, the holiday marks the beginning of a new fiscal year and a time when all old debts are settled. It is especially significant spiritually, since the new year is when the opposing forces of the universe, otherwise known as yin and yang, reunite to renew their natural harmony.

A number of traditions are observed today as they have been for hundreds of years. A month prior to the holiday, houses are cleaned from top to bottom, business accounts are settled, and generous offerings are made to the gods of the household to atone for any bad behavior. The kitchen god, whose stately image often hangs in the kitchen, is given special attention--his lips are smeared with honey so that when he returns to heaven and makes his annual accounting of the household, only sweet remarks will come out of his mouth.

Gifts, usually edible delicacies, are exchanged among relatives, friends and business associates. Oranges, which signify happiness and prosperity for the coming year, are often presented, as well as apples, which represent the wish of peace and good will.

As during all holidays, food plays a prominent role in the New Year ritual. There are dumplings stuffed with meat, seafood and vegetarian fillings. Some are pan-fried to a crusty brown; they are said to resemble golden coins. Others are steamed, boiled and deep-fried. A lucky token or a coin is often stuffed inside, imparting a wish of good luck to the recipient. Groups of friends often gather to prepare tray loads of dumplings before the holiday. According to an age-old custom, only good things are discussed as they are stuffed, to ensure good luck for the coming year.

Other New Year delicacies include thin, deep-fried spring rolls, which symbolize bricks of gold; sticky rice cakes, whose Chinese name implies a wish of great achievement; meatballs, which signify unity, and noodles for longevity.

In many parts of China, a whole fish is served, since it symbolizes bounty. Where seafood is scarce, a whole fish sculpted out of wood is used as a table centerpiece, imparting a wish for prosperity.

Sleep is discouraged on New Year’s Eve and the entire family stays up to welcome in the holiday. At dawn, the door is opened and the master of the house recites a prayer for prosperity during the coming year. Some families then sit down to a banquet.

On New Year’s Day, relatives and friends gather to eat, gossip, gamble and set off fireworks to scare away the evil spirits. The food is often served at room temperature, since many families do not cook on New Year’s Day. According to Chinese ritual, steaming and boiling are allowed, but deep-frying is forbidden. Knives and all cutting instruments are put away, and brooms and dust pans are not used, since throwing out garbage is comparable to discarding gold.

The following recipes represent a sampling of traditional and contemporary New Year’s Day specialties. They may be served separately or together. May they bring prosperity and happiness for the coming year. Gung Hay Fat Choy!

SPRING ROLLS 1 pound boneless, center-cut pork loin 2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce Rice wine or sake 2 teaspoons sesame oil 3 cups plus 5 tablespoons safflower or corn oil Cornstarch 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 1/2 tablespoons minced ginger root 8 dried Chinese black mushrooms, softened in hot water, stems removed and caps finely shredded 2 1/2 cups finely shredded leeks 2 1/2 cups finely shredded Chinese or napa cabbage 3 cups bean sprouts, rinsed and drained 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 20 Shanghai spring roll wrappers 1 egg, lightly beaten 3 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon water Plum or duck sauce, optional Hot mustard, optional

Cut pork across grain into slices about 1/8-inch thick. Cut slices into fine julienne shreds.

In medium bowl combine 1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice wine, 1 teaspoon sesame oil and 1 teaspoon cornstarch. Add pork and toss lightly to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature 20 minutes.

Heat wok or skillet over high heat. Add 3 tablespoons safflower oil and heat until very hot. Add shredded pork and stir-fry over high heat, stirring constantly, until pieces change color and separate. Remove with handled strainer or slotted spoon and set aside.

Reheat wok. Add 2 tablespoons safflower oil and heat until very hot. Add garlic, ginger and mushrooms and stir-fry about 15 seconds until fragrant. Add leeks and stir-fry about 1 minute over high heat, then add cabbage. If mixture is very dry, add 1 tablespoon rice wine. Continue cooking another minute, then add bean sprouts and reserved pork.

Combine 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice wine if desired, 1 teaspoon sesame oil, pepper and 1 teaspoon cornstarch in small bowl. Add to wok and stir-fry briefly until sauce has thickened, then spread mixture out on platter to cool. (You may refrigerate.) If mixture is very wet, drain in colander, pressing down on mixture with spatula.

Separate spring roll wrappers and cover with cloth to prevent them from drying out. Arrange wrapper like diamond on counter. If filling is very wet, squeeze out any excess liquid. Place about 2 tablespoons filling in straight line just below midway mark of wrapper. Mix egg, flour and water in small bowl into smooth paste. Brush some of flour mixture along opposite edge of wrapper. Starting at bottom edge, roll up and fold in both sides, then roll further to enclose filling and 2 side edges inside. Press pasted edge to seal. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.

Heat wok, deep-fryer or skillet. Add 3 cups safflower oil and heat to 375 degrees. Add 4 or 5 rolls and fry, turning occasionally, until deep golden brown. Remove with handled strainer or slotted spoon and drain in colander briefly, then on paper towels.

Deep-fry remaining rolls in same manner. To reheat, arrange on racks and heat until piping hot at 375 degrees. Serve with plum or duck sauce and hot mustard. Makes 20 rolls.

Each Spring Roll contains about: 156 calories; 233 mg sodium; 52 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.39 gram fiber.

SPICY CLAMS IN BLACK-BEAN SAUCE 48 littleneck or small cherrystone clams 2 tablespoons fermented or salted black beans, rinsed, drained and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons minced green onions, white part only 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 tablespoon minced ginger root 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes or dried chile flakes 1/2 cup chicken broth or water 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 1/2 tablespoons rice wine or sake 1 teaspoon sugar 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon water 1 tablespoon safflower or corn oil 2 tablespoons minced green onions

Lightly scrub outside of clams with brush and place in bowl with water to cover 1 hour. Drain thoroughly.

Combine black beans, green onions, garlic, ginger root and red pepper in small bowl. In another small bowl, combine broth, soy sauce, rice wine, sugar and pepper. Combine cornstarch and water in third small bowl.

Heat wok or casserole with lid over high heat. Add safflower oil and heat until hot. Add black-bean mixture and stir-fry about 10 seconds until fragrant. Add broth mixture and heat until boiling. Add clams. Cover and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until clams just open, 3 to 4 minutes. Discard unopened clams. Using slotted spoon, transfer clams to serving bowl.

Slowly add cornstarch mixture to sauce, stirring to prevent any lumps. Carefully pour sauce over clams. Sprinkle top with minced green onions and serve. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 90 calories; 469 mg sodium; 31 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

SPICY COLD-TOSSED BROCCOLI 1 (about 1 pound) bunch broccoli 1/4 teaspoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons Chinese clear rice vinegar 2 tablespoons sesame oil 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon minced ginger root 3/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes or dried chile flakes

With sharp knife, peel away tough, outer skin covering stem of broccoli. Cut away florets, cutting up larger pieces on diagonal. Cut stems into 1-inch sections. Combine soy sauce, sugar and vinegar in small bowl, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Set aside.

Heat 2 quarts water in large pan until boiling and add broccoli. Return to boil and cook until stems and florets are just tender, about 3 minutes. (Pierce pieces with sharp knife--it should go through stems easily.) Drain in colander and rinse under cold running water to cool. Drain thoroughly and place in mixing bowl.

Heat wok or skillet over high heat. Add sesame oil and heat until hot. Add garlic, ginger root and red pepper flakes and stir-fry about 10 seconds until fragrant. Add soy sauce mixture and cook about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Pour sauce over broccoli, tossing to coat. Let stand at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or cover with plastic wrap and chill several hours before serving. Serve at room temperature or cold. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 73 calories; 35 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.93 gram fiber.

POACHED PEARS IN CINNAMON-GINGER SAUCE 6 slightly underripe Bosc or Anjou pears, peeled, halved and cored 2 lemons, cut in half 6 cups water 1 1/2 cups sugar 2 cinnamon sticks 8 quarter-size ginger root slices, smashed with flat side of knife or cleaver 1 tablespoon minced candied ginger Vanilla or ginger ice cream, optional

Rub pear halves with cut lemon to prevent browning and set aside.

Combine water, sugar, cinnamon sticks and smashed ginger in large non-aluminum pan. Heat until boiling. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes.

Add pears and heat until liquid almost boils. Reduce heat until liquid is just under boil and poach pears until just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. (Knife will pierce center easily.) Remove pears with slotted spoon and let cool slightly. Arrange cooked pears on serving dish or in individual serving bowls.

Remove ginger and cinnamon from poaching liquid and reheat liquid until boiling. Cook until liquid is reduced to thick syrup, 25 minutes. Let cool slightly. Pour warm syrup over pears. Sprinkle top with candied ginger and serve. Serve with scoops of vanilla or ginger ice cream. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 301 calories; 2 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 78 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 2.45 grams fiber.