A Curry Flashback

Some exotic-sounding recipes are totally American. Consider this shrimp curry, an American variation of Indian curry. One of its key ingredients is curry powder, but when you taste it what comes to mind are not thoughts of the Raj but American dinner parties, circa 1955. Just check out those pineapple chunks.

With more and more people going back to hosting small dinner parties--as opposed to doing their entertaining in restaurants--this curry would make a fun retro dish to serve to a few friends. For dessert, what about something nostalgic like chocolate mousse?

The curry is so quick to make that the basic sauce can be put together while the rice is cooking. You can even make the sauce a day ahead so that the flavors have a chance to mingle.

For a simple starter, you really need nothing more than pistachios or salted peanuts. If you want something a little more adventurous, try pappadams , spicy Indian wafers made of lentils and sold in every Indian grocery store. They are sold dried; all you need to do is deep-fry them, one at a time, in hot oil for a few seconds. When they turn golden and puff up, drain them on paper towels. You can fry them a few hours before serving; they’re a great alternative to traditional chips.

Although the baked hot chocolate mousse has a souffle-like character and must be baked at the last minute, most of the preparation can easily be done ahead of time. It’s like a hot flourless chocolate cake, served with a very small dollop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream tucked into the top.

You may start out serving this dinner for four, but it’s a menu that can easily be doubled or tripled.

The flavors in this curry come together in a most delicious way. You can also make the curry without shrimp, substitute water for the chicken broth and create a wonderful vegetarian entree. Or if you prefer chicken to seafood, simply substitute cubes of boneless chicken breast for the shrimp.

SWEET SHRIMP CURRY WITH FRESH PINEAPPLE GARNISH 1 tablespoon peanut oil 2 large garlic cloves, minced 2 small onions, chopped 1 to 2 tablespoons curry powder (depending on strength of powder) 1 large carrot, scrubbed, chopped 1 Golden Delicious apple, unpeeled, chopped 1/3 cup currants 1/3 cup tomato paste 2 cups chicken broth 1/4 cup dry white wine 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper 1 cup water, as needed 24 large peeled fresh shrimp, tail on Saffron Rice 1 ripe pineapple, cut into 1/3-inch dice (about 2 cups)

Heat oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add garlic, onions and 1 tablespoon curry powder. Cook until onions are tender, about 4 minutes, stirring often. Add carrot, apple, currants, tomato paste, broth, white wine, salt and pepper to taste. Stir to combine. Simmer, uncovered, until thickened, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add water as necessary. Adjust curry powder and other seasonings to taste. (Can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight.)

To finish, gently heat sauce over medium heat. Add shrimp. Adjust seasonings to taste. Cook only until shrimp turn opaque, about 5 minutes, stirring often. Do not overcook.

To serve, spoon hot Saffron Rice onto center of warm dinner plates. Divide shrimp curry between plates, mounding attractively on rice. Garnish with 3 tablespoons diced pineapple. Pass remaining pineapple in small serving dish. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

384 calories; 1,362 mg sodium; 64 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 58 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 1.24 grams fiber.

Saffron Rice 1 tablespoon peanut oil 2 cups water 1 cup rice 1 teaspoon salt Generous dash saffron threads 1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick

Bring peanut oil, water, rice, salt, saffron and cinnamon to boil in 2-quart pot. Stir well. Simmer, covered, until liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. It is not necessary to stir rice while it cooks. When cooked, set rice aside 10 minutes, covered.

Fluff with fork. Adjust seasonings to taste. Remove cinnamon stick.

The mousse can be made in advance and slipped into the oven in the middle of the meal. Serve it hot with a small dollop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream .

BAKED DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE Butter Sugar 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate 1/4 cup strong coffee 3 large eggs, separated, room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar Sweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream

Butter 4 (8-ounce) souffle dishes. Coat dishes with sugar, tapping out excess. Set aside with baking sheet.

Gently melt chocolate and 2 tablespoons butter in coffee in microwave oven or on top of double boiler. Transfer to mixing bowl. Stir well to combine. Mixture will be thick.

Whisk egg yolks and 2/3 cup sugar in 1-quart bowl until light-colored and fluffy. Whisk in vanilla. Add small amount of chocolate mixture (it doesn’t need to be completely cool) to egg yolks. Stir well. Add remaining chocolate. Stir well.

Beat egg whites with cream of tartar in small mixer bowl until foamy. As they thicken, add 1/3 cup sugar, small amount at time. Continue beating whites until they hold their shape but are still moist and shiny. Stir 1/3 of whites into chocolate mixture. Fold in remaining whites with flexible rubber spatula.

Divide mixture between prepared dishes. (Mixture can come up to top of dish.) Can be baked immediately, or held in refrigerator up to 4 hours. Let refrigerated mousse come to room temperature before baking. Place souffle dishes on baking sheet.

Bake on center rack of 400-degree oven until puffed, slightly cracked on surface but not too firm, about 12 minutes.

To serve, place desserts on serving dishes, spoon on small dollop of whipped cream (if mousse has puffed above rim of dish, make slight opening on surface for cream). Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 448 calories; 59 mg sodium; 175 mg cholesterol; 25 grams fat; 58 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.7 gram fiber.