The 22-Ingredient Ravioli

Paul Mantee’s ravioli recipe came down to him as oral tradition from his father, who wasn’t happy giving it out to others.

“When I told my Dad that I was going to write down the recipe, he told me: ‘Always leave one ingredient out, so it’s good, but not as good as we do it.’ So I told him: ‘Dad, I’m leaving out the calves’ brains.’ No one uses brains anyway.”

The recipe, contained piecemeal in Mantee’s novel, “In Search of the Perfect Ravioli” (Ballantine: 1991), is presented here word for word as it is in the book. “1. 1 1/2 pounds boneless veal. “2. 3/4 pound ground pork. “3. 1 pound hamburger or stewing beef. “4. 8 or 10 slices of Italian salami. “5. Four or five slices of prosciutto. By all means, imported. “6. Two Italian sausages or Calabrese (mild). Don’t use the hot variety. “7. The skinless meat, white or dark or both, of half of three-pound fryer. “8. Two whole beef or calves’ brains. (Boil these in salted water for 15 minutes.) “9. Any leftover meats from your Frigidaire, like some boiled beef, chicken, or maybe a piece of hamburger you didn’t finish. (Fat chance.) “10. Two large or three medium-sized dry onions. “11. Four large cloves of garlic. “12. Several sprigs of fresh parsley. “13. Two stalks of celery, with tops. “14. One bunch of Swiss chard--stems and all--not the red chard. Must be green. “15. A pinch of nutmeg. “16. Rosemary--mixed Italian herbs--I feel rosemary should dominate. “17. A little oregano. “18. Grated Parmesan cheese--four cups. “19. French bread--five slices. “20. Imported pignoli --six packets. “21. A dozen eggs--maybe more--depends on the wetness of the mixture. “22. Salt and pepper. “Boil brains (or skip if desired). Saute 1 through 9 in olive oil. When brown, add 10 through 13, chopped. Add Swiss chard 14) after washing and cutting into four-inch squares. Add 15 through 17 and salt and pepper (22). When chard has blended into mixture and softened, take whole mixture off fire, let cool and pass through a fine meat grinder. On top of this mixture break a dozen eggs. Add four cups Parmesan cheese. Add six packets imported pignoli . “Soak the five slices of French bread in water till soft. Then squeeze dry and crumble it up into the mixture. Then with your big mitts, mix, and I mean mix . . . Mix the whole thing until it becomes one unidentifiable mess. If the consistency of the mixture is too dry, add more eggs. If it’s too wet, add more cheese. “Pick up four-foot sheets of dough from a ravioli factory. . . . Or better yet, use wonton skins.” Mantee suggests using a large ravioli rolling pin with inch-square compartments. He has one hanging in his small kitchen. It came from his family’s restaurant. But he admits that finding such a relic isn’t easy, and that won-ton skins work just as well for the “paste.” “No one’s gonna do this recipe,” he says. “It’s too complicated.”