Peanuts: Out of Their Shells, Around the World

I do not remember where the conversation took place, but it was probably at the kitchen table. What I do remember is the shock it generated. Jane and I were 9 years old, 10 at the most, and full of after-school peanut butter cookies and milk. She told me then, in a voice just above a whisper, that there was no such thing as peanut butter in England, where she had lived until the previous year.

I never doubted her for a moment. She was, after all, my best friend, she got all the answers right in social studies, and she never lied. Still, I had some questions. What did she put on toast in the morning? And what about peanut butter cookies? Peanut butter and banana sandwiches? Celery logs with peanut butter and raisin ants? Hadn’t she heard of those?

She shook her head gravely, and I stared in amazement. Not only did I feel sorry for poor Jane, but I was not at all sure about this country called England. A place where they did not have peanut butter! It was inconceivable.

When I was growing up in Canada, peanut butter was both a dietary staple and a comfort food: A spoonful from the jar when no one was looking always seemed to make everything better. In fact, if I had been asked when I was 9 years old to name three Canadian foods, peanut butter would probably have made the list before apples and maple syrup. But although peanut butter may be a North American institution, the peanut itself is native to neither the United States nor Canada.

Peanuts were first grown in South America more than 2,000 years ago. They were especially treasured by the Incas of Peru, who buried jars of peanuts alongside their dead. By the 16th Century, the Portuguese had discovered the nut and used it as rations on slave ships destined for Asia, the Pacific Islands, India and Africa. Tasty, nutritious and easy to grow, peanuts quickly became established wherever the climate allowed.

In the southern United States, peanuts, which also arrived on slave ships, were raised primarily for animal fodder. Fearing Burr, in the 1865 edition of “The Field and Garden Vegetables of America,” lists only three varieties: African, Wilmington (or Carolina) and the larger, but “less esteemed” Tennessee.

During the Civil War, however, underfed soldiers began eating them. Then botanist George Washington Carver gave the peanut a boost. Devoting much of his career to the humble “goober,” he developed more than 300 peanut-based products, including a milk substitute, a face powder, printer’s ink and soap.

But the most memorable peanut product of all eluded Carver. Instead, it was invented by a St. Louis physician.

The doctor, whose name has long been forgotten, needed a high-protein, low-starch food that his patients could digest easily. He took some peanuts, roasted them, blanched them and worked them through his kitchen grinder--and peanut butter was born. Promoted at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair, the new food was soon mass-produced.

Peanuts are legumes (meaning they’re actually related to peas), and like other legumes, they are a relatively inexpensive and versatile source of nutrition. One-half cup of raw peanuts contains nearly 19 grams of protein; among legumes, only soybeans have more. Peanuts, which contain no cholesterol, are rich in niacin and potassium.

And, alas, fat. A half-cup of raw peanuts (raw, they really do taste more like peas than nuts) contains 414 calories, with 78% of those calories on the average coming from fat. Roasting does not significantly alter the amount of fat in peanuts, and there is almost no difference in fat content between dry- and oil-roasted nuts.

All the news about fat in peanuts isn’t bad, however. They are low in saturated fat (five grams per half cup raw nuts) and high in monounsaturated fat (31 grams per half cup raw nuts), the type that researchers believe may help protect against heart disease.

All of the following recipes use unsalted, skinless or blanched, roasted peanuts. The lack of salt means they can just as easily be chopped up for garnish on something sweet or savory. I toss them into salads, granola and stir-fries, or grind them (briefly, so they don’t turn into peanut butter) to coat chocolate-covered bananas or to use in patties and loaves. And if personal preference demands it, unsalted, blanched roasted peanuts can be roasted a second time with a small amount of oil and lightly salted.

Roasted, shelled peanuts should always be refrigerated. They maintain their quality for about three months; if you buy in bulk, they can be frozen for up to six months. When buying unshelled peanuts, look for nuts that are free from splits, cracks, holes and mold. (One pound of peanuts in the shell yields 2 1/4 cups of nuts.) Store unshelled, roasted peanuts in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to one month, or in the refrigerator for up to six months. Raw, unshelled nuts keep slightly better than roasted ones; both can be frozen for up to 10 months.

When it comes to peanut butter, the best is homemade. It is always fresh, and you control the ingredients. In our house, though, the convenience of store-bought sometimes wins out. When I buy peanut butter, I avoid at all costs the type I was raised on. You know the stuff supermarket shelves are well stocked with--each jar is topped up with sugar, salt and a stabilizing oil. It never needs refrigeration and seems to be able to live for years in the cupboard.

Pure peanut butter needs to be refrigerated. I read the labels and buy only ground peanuts with nothing added. It is a little trickier to know what you are getting if you buy peanut butter in bulk, but a taste will tell you a lot. The butter should not be sweet or salty; instead, it should have a true peanut flavor. Oil floating on top of the container means stabilizers have not been used, usually a good sign.

The following recipes use a natural, relatively stiff peanut butter. Depending on the texture of your peanut butter, the final products may vary slightly. This is taken into account in the cookie recipe, for instance, where I give an approximation of the amount of flour needed to form a fairly stiff dough. The muffin batter, on the other hand, is meant to be a little thin, but if your peanut butter is thin, you may need to increase the amount of oats.

The first time I made a sauce with peanut butter, I was shocked to see what looked like a curdled mess. It takes a few minutes of stirring to incorporate peanut butter into sauces and stews. And be careful: Peanut butter sticks to the bottom of the pan almost as readily as it sticks to the roof of your mouth. If you are making a dip or a warm (rather than hot) sauce with peanut butter, keep in mind that it will thicken as it cools.

My perspective on food has changed since I learned about Jane’s deprived childhood in England, but kids today still think of peanut butter as one of the four essential food groups. Recently, when I was entertaining a houseful of relatives, my 4-year-old daughter reached past all the fancy food in the refrigerator for the peanut butter jar. A visitor encouraged her to try something more interesting, but I overruled the suggestion and helped my daughter spread peanut butter on her toast. Some things--thank goodness--never change.

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My daughter likes to add a little honey. I usually use one tablespoon of wheat germ.

PEANUT BUTTER 1 pound unsalted and blanched roasted peanuts (3 1/2 cups) 1 to 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1/2 teaspoon salt, optional

Place peanuts and 1 tablespoon oil in blender or food processor. Process on low speed in blender or pulse in food processor until nuts are coarsely ground. Increase blender speed to high or process continuously until smooth, scraping down sides twice.

Add more oil for creamier peanut butter. Season to taste with salt. Store homemade peanut butter in covered container in refrigerator up to 10 days. Makes 2 cups.

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This dish, which is both sweet and tart, was inspired by a Vietnamese restaurant. Refreshing in summer, it is also a welcome addition to the winter table, when salad greens are harder to come by.

VIETNAMESE NOODLE SALAD 1/2 pound rice noodles 1 1/2 cups peeled and diced cucumber 1/2 pound small shrimp, cooked 2 green onions, diagonally sliced 1/4 cup peanut or vegetable oil 1/4 cup white vinegar 4 teaspoons sugar Dash chile oil 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or 1 tablespoon dried 1/2 cup unsalted and blanched roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Soak rice noodles in warm water 15 minutes. Drain. Then cook noodles in boiling water until tender but still firm, 1 minute. Drain and rinse thoroughly with cold water. Place in serving bowl along with cucumber, shrimp and green onions.

Stir together oil, vinegar, sugar and chile oil to taste in small saucepan. Cook and stir over low heat until sugar has dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour over noodle mixture. Add mint and toss. Sprinkle peanuts over top. Serve immediately or refrigerate up to 2 hours. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

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If you cannot find lemon grass, substitute lemon peel; the results will still be delicious. Dried lemon grass should be soaked in water 30 minutes and drained before using.

SPICY ASIAN CHICKEN 3 tablespoons peanut oil 1 cup unsalted and blanched roasted or raw peanuts, plus 1 tablespoon chopped for garnish 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 dried red chile pepper, minced, or 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, trimmed and cut into strips 3/4 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves 4 green onions, cut into 1-inch lengths 2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh or dried lemon grass or grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon sugar 1/4 cup water 1 tablespoon cornstarch Cooked noodles or rice

Heat oil in wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 cup peanuts and stir-fry until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add garlic and chile pepper and stir-fry 1 minute.

Add chicken, basil and green onions and stir-fry until chicken is no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Add fish sauce, lemon juice, lemon grass, sugar and 2 tablespoons water and bring to boil.

Dissolve cornstarch in remaining 2 tablespoons water in small bowl. Add to wok and cook and toss until sauce has thickened. Transfer to serving platter and garnish with remaining 1 tablespoon chopped peanuts. Serve with hot cooked noodles or rice. Makes 4 servings.

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Serve this spicy Indonesian peanut sauce with steamed vegetables, such as potatoes, green beans, carrots and broccoli, hard-cooked eggs and bean sprouts on a bed of rice.

INDONESIAN PEANUT SAUCE 3 cups peanut butter 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon honey 1 teaspoon cider vinegar 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon minced ginger root 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1/2 cup water

Combine peanut butter, lime juice, soy sauce, honey, vinegar, garlic, ginger root, red pepper flakes to taste and water in saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly. Remove from heat.

Sauce thickens while cooling. Serve warm or at room temperature. Sauce can be stored, covered, in refrigerator up to 1 week. Makes 1 1/4 cups.

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In many parts of Africa, stews of meat, fish or vegetables are enriched with peanut butter. For an authentic touch, serve over hot cooked millet.

GROUND NUT STEW 1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 1 tablespoon peanut oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon minced ginger root 2 teaspoons ground coriander 3 tomatoes, chopped 1 large zucchini, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 cups tomato juice 1/2 cup peanut butter Salt Freshly ground pepper

Steam or boil sweet potato and carrots until tender-crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Set aside, reserving 1/2 cup cooking liquid.

Heat oil in large pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and ginger root and saute 5 minutes. Add coriander and saute 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, reserved vegetable liquid and zucchini. Cook, uncovered, over low heat until zucchini is just tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in sweet potato, carrots, tomato juice and peanut butter. Simmer until heated through, 5 to 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 4 servings.

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These cake-like muffins with a true peanut taste are good at any meal. They’re also good as a snack in between meals.

PEANUT BUTTER-OATMEAL MUFFINS 1/2 cup homemade or pure peanut butter 3/4 cup brown sugar, packed 1/4 cup butter, softened 1 large egg, lightly beaten 3/4 cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 cup whole-wheat flour 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup rolled oats (not instant) 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt Dash ground nutmeg

Grease and flour 12 muffin cups or line with paper baking liners.

Beat together peanut butter, brown sugar, butter and egg in mixing bowl until pale in color. Gradually beat in milk and vanilla.

Stir together flours, oats, baking powder, salt and nutmeg in separate bowl. Add to peanut butter mixture and stir until just combined. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups.

Bake muffins at 350 degrees until tops are firm to touch, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on rack before removing muffins from tins. Makes 12 muffins.

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Honey gives these cookies their special flavor. Some cooks use the bottom of a glass to press the cookies, but peanut butter cookies just aren’t the same unless you use fork tines to flatten them. Honest!

PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES 1 cup homemade or pure peanut butter 1/2 cup butter, softened 1/2 cup honey 1/2 cup brown sugar, packed 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole-wheat flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 3/4 cup unsalted and blanched roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Beat together peanut butter, butter and honey in mixing bowl. Gradually beat in brown sugar, egg and vanilla.

Stir together flours, baking soda and salt in separate bowl. Add to peanut butter mixture and stir until combined.

With lightly floured hands, roll dough into 1-inch balls. Place balls at least 2 inches apart on greased baking sheets. Press cookies flat with back of fork. Sprinkle peanuts on top. Bake 1 sheet at time on center oven rack at 350 degrees until tops are golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer cookies to racks and let cool. Makes about 5 dozen cookies.

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This dessert is utterly addictive, yet easy to make. Children will love the colorful stripes.

TIGER BUTTER 1/2 pound white chocolate, chopped 1/2 cup homemade or pure smooth peanut butter 1/2 pound semisweet chocolate, chopped

Melt white chocolate in double boiler set over hot but not boiling water. Scrape into bowl and stir in peanut butter.

Clean and thoroughly dry top of double boiler, then melt semisweet chocolate over hot water.

Line bottom of 9-inch round or 10-inch square cake pan with wax paper. Pour white chocolate/peanut butter mixture into pan and spread evenly. Pour semisweet chocolate over top and spread evenly. Draw table knife through chocolate to create marbled effect. Place pan in freezer until solid, 30 minutes. Cut candy into wedges or squares. Makes 16 candies.