Life on the Wing : A day at Whiteman Airport can include a ride in an open-air biplane, and a meal at the Crosswind Cafe.

PACOIMA — Whiteman Airport is easy to miss in this neighborhood of working-class homes and auto repair shops. There is only one runway and, until a few years ago, the airport didn’t have a control tower.

Mostly recreational pilots fly out of here, guys who go for afternoon trips in their tiny Beechcraft and Pipers. They can drive their cars across the taxiway and park next to the hangars. It is not unusual to see someone’s dog sleeping in the shade of a plane’s wing. An airport official once described this airfield as “the peaceful little country airport in the middle of the city.”

So Whiteman can provide an odd and interesting day for those inclined to spend a little time on its premises.

10:30 a.m.: The Los Angeles County Fire Department keeps helicopters on a pad next to Whiteman. Every morning between 10:30 and 11, several of these craft lift off to fly to fire camps in Malibu, Whittier and the mountains north of Pacoima.

The Bell choppers make for an impressive sight. They are large, able to carry as many as a dozen firefighters and hundreds of gallons of water.

And the Fire Department will give tours of the aircraft to organized groups. For information, call (818) 890-5755.

11 a.m.: Bring an early picnic lunch and sit at tables, under shade trees, near the runway. On an average day, all sorts of planes whir in and out, everything from small private craft to lunky World War II relics in various states of restoration.

A group of local pilots have been known to set their beach chairs on the edge of the Tarmac and, holding cards numbered 1 to 10, rate each take-off and landing.

Of course, a not-so-appetizing scent of aviation fuel may waft on the breeze. Consider it, as they say in the restaurant business, “ambience.”

Noon: Now comes the highlight of the day. Over in hangar F5, Bertie Duffy keeps a 1941 Boeing Stearman biplane. It is a big proud beast, painted red and white, its engine cylinders and chrome propeller gleaming.

But the best part about this plane--for those who pay take a whirl in it--is the open cockpit.

Flying in a private aircraft can be a cramped, bouncing, stuffy experience. But in a Stearman, there is a sense of openness with only a pair of goggles and one of those funny-looking Red Baron helmets between you and the wild blue yonder. The plane gently ping-pongs through turbulence as wind whips on either side. Duffy lets her passengers sit in the front seat, so the view is unlimited.

She started flying biplanes more than a decade ago while dating a pilot. The two married and eventually divorced.

“But I’m still flying,” Duffy says. “Fifteen years, and I still get a thrill.”

Her tour begins with a quick view of the San Fernando Valley. From 2,500 feet, it looks like you expected it would: brown and flat. From above, the city seems smaller and more manageable.

For $90, you get a half-hour ride that follows a northerly route over the San Gabriel Mountains and the Santa Clarita Valley. The $150 hourlong trip heads west. Encino passes beneath like a turquoise checkerboard of swimming pools. The Santa Monica Mountains are green, and cotton swabs of clouds mark the ocean beyond. On clear days, the Palos Verdes Peninsula and Santa Catalina Island push their noses above a blanket of smog.

Speaking of smog, it lives its grimy life beneath the temperature inversion, a layer of warm air that traps pollution against the earth. According to a spokesman from the South Coast Air Quality Management District, temperature inversion exists anywhere between 1,000 and 5,000 feet. If the inversion is low, Duffy can fly above it. Otherwise, you’re pretty much breathing street-level air.

The same goes for temperature. It cools slightly with each hundred or so feet of altitude, but can vary widely. On a hot day, you can wear shirt sleeves and be comfortable in the Stearman. Otherwise, bring a jacket.

As for the landing, Duffy brings her biplane in as soft as a whisper.

For information and reservations, call (818) 890-5410 or (818) 769-2894.

1 p.m.: Now that you’re experienced, stop by the Crosswind Cafe, beside the airport’s office.

Photos of pilots and their planes adorn the walls in this small, dark lounge. A bent and scarred propeller is suspended from the ceiling. Pilots hang out here, bellying up to the bar or relaxing in red vinyl booths. A glass of draft beer costs $1.75 but the ambient chatter is free.

On a recent afternoon, two aviators discussed flying back from Mexico and crossing the border.

“The Border Patrol can be tough. The guy says he’s going to fine me $5,000,” an indignant pilot recalls. “I said, ‘This is the United States of America.’ ”

Later, the talk turned to girlfriend trouble.

“I can sleep in my hangar,” one of the pilots mused.

Ah, the life of a flier.

Where and When Location: Whiteman Airport, 12653 Osborne St., Pacoima. Suggested Dishes: Draft beer, $1.75, at the Crosswind Cafe. Hours: The airport is open 24 hours a day. The cafe is open 9:30 a.m. to midnight. Parking is free. Call: (818) 896-5271.