Formal Introductions : ‘Black tie’ now means bold colors and polka-dot or paisley vests. Suspenders can even make a fashion statement.
The world is no longer black and white for men who want to wear a tuxedo to a formal gala this holiday season.
Many men are adding colorful accessories to the classic black tuxedo--the uniform of formal parties. Brocade vests, colorful cummerbunds and printed bow ties have changed the meaning of the words “black tie.”
For a look at the new tuxedo treatments, check out Daniel Day-Lewis’ wardrobe in the movie “The Age of Innocence.” He’s shown at those proper dinner parties and opera balls sporting black tuxedos that look anything but dull, mostly thanks to rich ivory satin vests and bow ties.
Tuxedo accessories have become more interesting because men need something to alleviate the sameness of the ubiquitous black tux.
“Everything is black, black, black,” says Conrad Maag, owner of Penguin Pformal Wear in Corona del Mar. “It’s not like in the ‘70s when tuxedos came in different colors. That’s why accessories have become so bold and colorful.
“A lot of the inspiration comes from men’s suits. They’re getting bolder, and so are the ties. Ten years ago you had to talk a man into a paisley tie, and now men are wearing (loud) ties by Nicole Miller. That carries over into formal wear. Men are loosening up.”
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Some have found that the solution to the black-tie doldrums is vests. Mixing a printed vest with a tuxedo is a fast-growing trend.
Maag has an array of vests in all colors and patterns, including Art Deco geometrics, Versace-inspired florals, rainbow-hued metallics, polka dots and paisleys. One Renaissance-style vest looks like it came out of “The Age of Innocence” with its rich red-on-black silk floral brocade ($65).
Men have found advantages to wearing a vest instead of a plain black or white cummerbund.
“You can take a basic black tux and make it very bold. Most vests have bright colors or iridescent fabrics,” says Jeanne Gibson, owner of Gingiss Formalwear at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Westminster Mall and Mission Viejo Mall. “Plus, when the men take their coats off, it looks better with a vest.”
(Once it was considered in poor taste for a man to remove his jacket at formal occasions, hence the old saying, “A gentleman never removes his coat.” Attitudes have changed, Maag says, and now taking off one’s jacket is no longer seen as offensive--especially among younger men. Thus the stage is set for vests.)
Vests come in all kinds of lush fabrics, from tapestries to brocades shot through with gold thread.
Gingiss carries a three-button black brocade vest and matching bow tie with a woven gold chain link pattern ($79). For the more flamboyant, there’s a satin floral vest in shades of fuchsia, purple and black ($69). A subtler style features a white-on-white starburst pattern in Jacquard satin ($63).
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Most formal vests have built-in lapels and a low three-button front that’s open to the waist. Yet some designers are pushing more progressive vests with higher, four- or five-button fronts and, in some cases, no lapels. Because the higher vests are more fitted and have a full back, they look good with or without a jacket.
“Some vests have as many as six or seven buttons. They’re for the fashion-forward,” says Scott Strenk, manager of TJ’s Tux & Tails in Fullerton.
Three-button vests in bold prints are his best sellers. One of the hottest styles at TJ’s is a matching satin vest and tie in a stained glass print of purple, royal and raspberry on a black background ($65). Another vest set comes in a paisley brocade in black on black, white on white or red on black ($65).
“Guys are tired of plain old black,” Strenk says.
Bow ties match the vests and cummerbunds in colors that are vivid but “non-intimidating,” Maag says. Blues, purples, reds, burgundies and deep greens are strong--”not so much lime green,” he says.
Of course, when the invitation calls for white-tie attire, these colorful extras are strictly forbidden. White tie is the formalest of formal occasions, Maag says, and men are required to wear a black tuxedo with tails and a white tie, white vest and gloves.
On the other hand, black tie is just a euphemism for tuxedo, Maag says. Unless the social club specifically requests a black tie, one can wear one of the printed colored ties or cummerbunds. In addition, tie and cummerbund don’t always have to match--although they usually do. One can get away with wearing a colorful cummerbund with a black bow tie, Maag says. Occasionally a man will wear a splashy bow tie with a black cummerbund, but that’s rare--it looks like one simply didn’t have the foresight to find a matching cummerbund.
Some men let their suspenders make a fashion statement at formal affairs. They flaunt braces that are true conversation pieces, with playful novelty prints that often reflect hobbies or holiday themes.
Trafalgar makes limited-edition suspenders with woven motifs such as sporting dogs, skyscrapers, rodeos, marlins and jazz musicians, available for $120 at Downey & Co. at Crystal Court, Costa Mesa.
“They’re for the man who likes to dress,” says Sandra Downey, owner of Downey & Co.
While tuxedo accessories might be a bit wild, tuxedos themselves remain conservative. Most men want a classic tuxedo jacket with a notched or peak lapel or a rounded shawl collar.
“Notched lapel jackets are your bread and butter, but shawl collars have been coming out more and more. It’s a simple, clean look,” Maag says.
He stocks some tuxedos with deep purple or burgundy jackets for those few who really want to break away from the pack. Still, the return of aberrations such as the pastel tuxedos of the ‘70s does not look likely.
“I don’t think colored tuxedos will come back,” Maag says. “But then, people do the darndest things when it comes to fashion.”
