The Winning Hand
Forgo the long, spiky fingernails that won’t go with your career tweeds. Dismiss the stubby, chewed-to-the-nub nails that make people wonder how much caffeine you consume. When you give yourself a manicure, you are behind the emery board, and you can create your own happy medium. Well-groomed nails are positive statement that both sexes can make without a lot of artificial ingredients such as acrylic, plastic and glue. Heeding a few basic steps can have your fingernails in show-off shape in a snap.
Tools of the Trade
Most everything you need to give yourself a manicure can be bought in a grocery store or drugstore. But don’t be afraid to spend extra in a department store for quality nail polish.
*Nail polish remover:
Brittle nails? Use nonacetone liquid remover. Strong nails? Use remover with acetone. *Nail clippers:
Choose sturdy metal clippers. *Emery board:
Do not use metal nail file. Choose rigid emery board with fine-grit filing surface. *Cuticle remover:
Use creamy remover with moisturiezers. *Cuticle nippers:
Metal nippers are better than scissors. *Orangewood sticks:
Use to push back cuticles. *Buffer:
Choose one with chamois surface.
The Nine-Step Manicure
A personal manicure can be as soul-pampering and professional-looking as any salon treatment if you give yourself the time and get into the proper frame of mind. To save time on the cuticle care step, do it after a bath or washing dishes, when your hands are already soft. A good manicure should last one to two weeks, depending on wear and tear. Men can follow the same steps and leave off where the polishing begins, or apply a clear, matte coat. Manicurist Santiago, of Nails by Santiago in San Diego, advises women that “the day you get a manicure is not the day to cook a big feast.” 1. From Scratch
Clean and dry nails. Remove old polish. 2. Shaping Nails.
*Clipping: Clip if necessary; otherwise file. Clip in little bites; do not clip off nail tip in one fell swoop.
*Filing: Hold emery board at slight angle underneath so nails are beveled. File from each side toward center. Do not saw back and forth or file into corners. Strive for oval or square-shaped tips. Make sure all edges are smooth. 3. Cuticle Care
Apply cuticle remover to each cuticle and under free edge of the nail. Use orangewood stick to gently push cuticles back. Never cut the cuticle; use nippers just to trim hangnails and dead or ragged skin around the cuticle. 4. Nail Buffing (optional)
Buffing smoothes ridges and imperfections by actually removing a layer or two of nail. Women who want length should avoid buffing because it weakens the nail. Men, who don’t have to worry about length, can buff for extra shine. Buff in one direction, about 30 strokes per nail. 5. Nail Repair
Use quick-bonding nail glue to repair.6. Base Coat
Always apply clear base coat to help polish adhere. It goes on shiny and slightly sticky but dulls as it dries.
7. Applying Nail Color
Two thin coats are better than one thick coat. For a truly professional look, polish free edge lengthwise and underneath. Then apply polish to entire nail. Allow maximum drying time between coats. If polish gets on skin, wash off with soap and water after nails are completely dry or wipe with orangewood stick wrapped in a bit of cotton ball dipped in polish remover.
8. Top Coat
Apply one layer on top of nail color. This seals and adds shine to manicure. Then apply top coat every other day to keep manicure fresh.
9. Drying
Apply one light coat of drying agent. Go easy with your hands for several hours after manicure.
Tips to Protect Your Tips Wear rubber gloves for heavy housework. Don’t slit open envelopes, pry off container tops or remove staples with nails. Always shampoo hair with balls of fingers instead of nail tips. Use pencils to dial phones. Do everything you can (typing, picking up objects) with the balls of your fingers. Don’t have naked nails. Always keep them covered with at least a clear coat of polish.
Anatomy of the Nail Free edge: The nail tip. Cuticle: This should be loose and pliable. Matrix: The living part of the nail determines health, quality and strength of nail. Nail bed: The area that nourishes nail growth.
Polishing It Up Base coat: Choose a clear base coat with formaldehyde. Specialized base coats are available that can help correct nail imperfections and weaknesses. Nail polish: Use professional polishes that glide on easily and precisely. They can be found at beauty supply shops, salons and high-end department stores. Top Coat: Choose clear, shiny lacquer. Drying agents: Choose oil-based drying product without alcohol. They can be found in beauty supply shop. Sources: Sally Hansen Division of Del Laboratories., Nails by Santiago.
