Going From Baden to Wurst
Three types of culture--art, foodstuffs and brew--all with German roots, and yeast being the key culture in the last-named--can be enjoyed within minutes of one another along the Chapman Avenue axis of Fullerton. And where better to begin a cultural tour than the Muckenthaler Cultural Center?
11 to 12:30: Perched on a hilltop with an ivy-strewn stone gazebo at its foot, the historic Muckenthaler mansion seemingly rises out of nowhere at the corner of Malvern Avenue and Buena Vista Drive. A walkway from the parking lot wends at right angles through 8.5 acres of manicured grounds dotted with palm trees, flowering cherry trees, cork oak, eucalyptus and shaded picnic tables. It continues past an amphitheater overlooking the city (the summer site of Theatre on the Green) and past tiled flower boxes overflowing with bougainvillea to the front door.
Inside, the Italian Renaissance structure now houses art exhibitions, such as the upcoming show of 50 model ships--among them the African Queen--opening Dec. 7.
The Muckenthaler family, originally Muggenthaler, hailed from the Baden-Wurttenberg region of Germany. Martin Muckenthaler left home in 1854, settled in Kansas and begat Albert, who moved to Anaheim in 1909 and begat Walter, who moved in the 1920s to Fullerton, where he and his wife, Adella Kraemer, great-granddaughter of early land grant holder Bernardo Yorba, built their home and lived for 40 years--and begat Harold, who, with his mother, donated the home and grounds to the city of Fullerton on the condition that it be used as a cultural center.
Immediately to the right of the entrance is an octagonal solarium. To the left is the living room that now houses one of the galleries. Beyond the living room is a formal dining room and a den-library featuring a tile fireplace with a scene of circling Conestoga wagons. The upstairs portion of the house, formerly bedrooms and a bathroom, is used for administrative offices, but the staff doesn’t seem to mind looky-loos. Speaking of loos, all the bathrooms, which feature white tile and beveled mirrors, are worth a visit.
Also worth a visit is the gift shop, which offers for sale works by a different local artist each month. The shop also sells cards, consignment jewelry and a variety of collectibles including odd teapots. A Christmas boutique and, in the basement, floral demonstrations open Dec. 4 for the holiday season.
12:45 to 1: One of the best wurst spots in Orange County is Demes Gourmet, a 30-year Fullerton fixture. Its counters brim with gelbswurst, bratwurst, bloodwurst, bierwurst , jagdwurst and more. You’ll also find pheasant, duck and goose; such glories of German cuisine as cabbage and beet concoctions; spatzle mixes; gurkens (pickles); butter cookies, and Austrian and German wines to wash it all down.
Make your shopping list before visiting the Hofbrau; pick it all up on your way out.
1 to 2: The Fullerton Hofbrau next door attracts the local college and professional crowd and beer aficionados from Los Angeles to San Diego. Many come to sample the five brews that Andreas Starkmann creates each week. For first-time visitors, a sampler of all five for $2 is a must. The selection recently included weizen (a seasonal beer made from wheat), raspberry weizen (“for the ladies,” Starkmann said), King’s lager, Earl’s ale and the dark and potent Duke’s bock.
The bar and restaurant, now open three years, are dominated on one side of the room by serving vats and on the other by a mural depicting a peasant scene. If Starkmann--who hails from Munich in Bavaria, naturally--is not otherwise engaged, he’ll cheerfully take you through the beer-making process from brew kettle to vats.
Chef Horst Voelsing’s signature dishes include an appetizer of three types of sausage--bratwurst, knackwurst and Polish sausage--served with a honeyed beer mustard ($3.95). Among lunch specialties are three schnitzel (breaded and sauteed cutlet) dishes ($9.75 to $11.95) and a Farmer’s Plate comprising a smoked pork chop, bratwurst, leberkase (meat loaf cured and fried), sauerkraut and braised red cabbage ($9.95). Spatzle accompanies most dishes. If it doesn’t come with yours, you can get a generous side portion of spatzle or red cabbage for 75 cents.
Not incidentally, Starkmann’s beers are available to go not only by the keg but also by the more manageable 2.5-liter bottle and 8.5-liter “party pig,” which fits very conveniently into a refrigerator.