The Renaissance of Romance : Visions of Velvet and Brocade and Layers of Lace Create the Tapestries of an Old-Fashioned Holiday

‘Tis the season to get decked out in styles that hark back to an old-fashioned holiday.

Ruffled blouses, brocade vests, plush velvet jackets and other dandy styles all recall an earlier age of romance. These so-called Renaissance or Edwardian looks are characterized by the piling on of velvets, lace, brocade and tapestries--rich materials that have long been associated with holiday galas.

For evening soirees, a long tapestry jacket can complement soft palazzos. Brocade vests in shades of antique gold and burgundy can be dressed up or down depending on the party--just add velvet pants or blue jeans. Crushed velvet in flowing skirts and stretchy tops can go right from day to night.

One can also add just a touch of Old World charm for evening with Edwardian accessories such as corded belts, velvet chokers and jet bead necklaces.

“The Edwardian look brings back that era of chivalry,” says Glenda Heitz, district manager of Cache.

Many have found the look’s soft blouses and long vests go well with the modern tailored pieces they already own.

“People are mixing (Edwardian styles) with everything--riding pants, thigh-high boots, blue jeans,” Heitz says. Among the pieces at Cache in Brea Mall and South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa: a long tapestry vest in cranberry and gold tones with antique brass buttons ($145), wide-legged pants made of burgundy crushed velvet ($100) and a black blazer with front panels covered in black lace over a floral brocade in muted shades of burgundy, green and blue ($195).

“Some women can wear more of it and some can wear only a little,” Heitz says. “It depends on the size and shape of the person. A lot of these heavier fabrics add to the person. They put on weight.”

Indeed, it’s easy to become a fashion victim with these vintage looks, because the fabrics are so heavy.

“Don’t overdo it,” says Flora Hills, owner of the Floral Hills boutique in Corona del Mar. “A suggestion is plenty. You don’t want to wear all tapestry or all velvet. You don’t want to wear too much of one thing. It’s knowing when to stop.”

Those who dress head-to-toe in lace and frills risk looking like an Edwardian fop, she says. It’s better to mix the elaborate pieces with simpler ones. Flora Hills’ velvet vests hand-painted with Renaissance scrolls and swirls ($250 to $290) are best paired with something understated, such as a flowing black skirt.

Other Edwardian styles that aren’t overly froufrou include Flora Hills’ simple hand-knit sweaters with cameo buttons and ruffled collars and cuffs ($200 to $500) and a long, high-waisted dress with a velvet top and chiffon skirt ($289). For just a suggestion of romance, add Renaissance accessories such as earrings and chokers made from cameos and old Belgian glass.

As long as one keeps the look in check, there’s no end to the ways that Edwardian styles can be adapted to the holidays.

“All of the velvet and tapestry jackets can go right into evening with the full palazzo pants,” says Colleen Espinosa, clothing buyer for Mykonos in Newport Beach. “A tapestry vest will work great with a full, soft chiffon pant that’s sheer enough so the leg shows through. The best looks are soft.”

Mykonos’ collection of wool jackets embellished with gold braiding and tassels on the pockets, lapels and sleeves ($150 to $400) go well with sheer chiffon or velvet bottoms.

Renaissance styles come in deep, rich hues that make them a natural for the holidays.

“Black, burgundy and gold are the colors,” says Wakim Kivorkian, clothing buyer and manager for the Michael Nusskern boutique in Fullerton.

In addition, the chiffon and lace blouses and stretchy crushed velvets are in keeping with the new softness of evening wear.

“As fashion goes, everything is softer. That hard Lycra look is out,” Kivorkian says.

He prefers subtle Renaissance looks such as Anna Sui’s simple black velvet riding jacket with gold buttons ($350) or her black bow of satin and lace covered with jet beads ($180).

“You can take that kind of bow and make any outfit Edwardian,” he says. “When you use pieces of the look, it becomes more wearable.”

One can also dress up an outfit by adding Anna Sui’s lace cuffs, which attach to the wrists so they spill out from underneath a jacket ($120).

“They make that boring jacket Edwardian,” Kivorkian says.

He, too, recommends going easy on the dandy styles.

“The look tends to be ‘costumey,’ so it has to be subdued,” he says. “Otherwise you could end up looking like you’re at a Renaissance fair.”