Holiday Cooking : Bulb of the Season

Creamed small onions is a familiar holiday standard--but it’s one that requires the tedious chore of peeling a multitude of baby onions.

Onion compote is a delicious alternate side dish that is easy to make with small onions. Just peel and slice the onions and cook them slowly in a covered pan with a little oil. Of course, for a compote you can use all sorts of onions--sharp or sweet, leeks or shallots, and yes, small onions.

Compote is a term used most often in dessert-making to describe fruit cooked to a thick, jam-like consistency. It also refers to slowly cooked vegetables. Like jam, vegetable compotes can be spread on bread. In this role they make a lower-fat substitute for butter.

The technique of making compote is similar to sauteing onions, but the pan is covered so the onions don’t scorch; thus you can cook with less oil. Using a heavy pan helps the onions cook evenly without burning and makes it possible to prepare compote with only occasional stirring.

It is amazing how this simple cooking procedure transforms the sharp, pungent onion into a delicate mixture that practically melts in your mouth. When made into compote, the onion’s natural sugar caramelizes so the vegetable acquires a subtle sweetness. Tender onion or leek compote is wonderful as it is, or accented with wine vinegar and a touch of sugar for a sweet-and-sour effect. For a traditional French flavor, butter should be used instead of all or part of the oil. Another good variation is Algerian onion compote flavored with hot peppers and tomatoes.

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I find it useful to prepare compote in large amounts so I have it on hand for several uses. I serve onion or leek compote as an accompaniment to poultry or meat; or I set a boneless piece of grilled or sauteed meat or fish on top, so the compote plays the part of a chunky sauce. I find both types of compote terrific in sandwiches--with sausages, cooked meats, feta or goat cheese, or just with sliced tomatoes.

As a flavoring, compote is the first step in making onion or leek soups and tarts. I like to mix leek or onion compote with cooked pasta or rice and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese for a new and tasty vegetarian main course. Onion compote, with or without tomatoes and cheese, also makes a great topping for pizza.

As long as you have onions and oil in the kitchen, you always have the makings of a savory vegetable accompaniment.

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This delicate onion compote is a tasty partner for chicken, turkey or steak, or can simply be spooned over bread.

FRENCH ONION COMPOTE

3 to 4 tablespoons butter, olive oil or vegetable oil

1 1/2 pounds white or brown onions, halved and thinly sliced

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

1 to 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar, optional

1/4 teaspoon sugar, optional

Melt butter in heavy casserole over low heat. Add onions, dash salt and pepper to taste. Cook, covered, stirring often, 30 minutes. Uncover and cook, stirring often, until onions are very tender and golden, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Do not burn. Stir in vinegar and sugar to taste and heat until absorbed. Taste and adjust seasonings. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Variation:

Leek Compote: Omit vinegar and sugar and substitute 2 pounds leeks for onions. Use white and light-green parts of leeks only. Rinse leeks well and cut into thin slices. Add 1/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock to pan with leeks. Cook about 20 minutes. If any liquid remains, uncover and simmer until it evaporates.

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Made of slow-cooked onions stewed with jalapeno chiles and tomatoes, and brightened with parsley, this compote works as a side dish with meat or poultry, mixed in with pasta or rice, wrapped in a hot tortilla, spooned inside pita bread or used as a pizza topping.

ALGERIAN ONION COMPOTE WITH TOMATOES

2 to 2 1/4 pounds onions

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 jalapeno chiles, seeded if desired to reduce hotness, minced

1 pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes, drained and chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons paprika

3 to 4 tablespoons chopped parsley

Cayenne pepper, optional

Halve onions and cut into thin lengthwise slices. Heat oil in heavy Dutch oven. Add onions and salt and pepper to taste. Saute over medium heat 10 minutes. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring often, until onions are tender and beginning to brown, 20 minutes.

Stir in jalapenos, tomatoes, paprika and salt and pepper to taste. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat until mixture is thick, about 15 minutes. Stir in parsley. Add cayenne pepper. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

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Smoked sausages and onion compote make a savory sandwich, especially when accompanied by sauerkraut and mustard and served in a chewy roll. Here the onions are cooked with sweet and hot paprika and turn a wonderful reddish color. I like to use a lower-fat turkey kielbasa but you can use any sausage you like.

TURKEY KIELBASA SANDWICH WITH ONION COMPOTE

3 tablespoons oil

2 large onions, halved and sliced

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

Dash hot paprika or cayenne pepper

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 pound turkey kielbasa sausage, cut into 4 pieces

4 long French rolls or frankfurter rolls

Prepared mustard

About 2/3 cup bottled sauerkraut, rinsed and drained, or 20 to 24 dill pickle slices.

Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onions, sweet and hot paprika and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook, stirring often, until onions are tender and well browned, 10 to 15 minutes.

Place sausage in separate skillet with 1/2 cup water. Cover and cook about 10 minutes or according to package instructions. Drain well.

Warm rolls in oven or toast lightly. Split in half. Spread with mustard to taste. Top with sauerkraut, sausage and sauteed onions. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.