Not-So-Instant Gratification

Despite the excellent bakeries we now have, bread continues to be one of the most satisfying things to make at home. What else equals the thrill of removing a crusty loaf from the oven with that heavenly aroma permeating the house, then letting it cool slightly and savoring it with a slather of butter?

For years, I made a straightforward loaf with flour and a proofed yeast mixture, meaning that the yeast was first activated in warm water before it was mixed into the flour. It was a 1-2-3 procedure. More recently, however, I have had impressive success with loaves using a sourdough starter.

The extra step of making a starter requires a little planning, but it’s simple enough. You make a batter of flour, potato water (water that potatoes have been cooked in) and yeast and set it aside in a warm place for about two days, until the yeast ferments and the mixture is bubbly. At this point, some of the starter can be used as the base and partial leavening in bread dough. The remaining batter should be refrigerated.

You can keep this starter going in the refrigerator for years, as long as you feed it regularly. Whenever you remove some starter for baking, replace that amount with fresh batter. At least every two weeks, whether you’ve been baking or not, you should stir in one cup bread flour and one cup water (discard some starter first, if you’re running out of room). Before using or replenishing the starter, bring it to room temperature. Should the starter discolor over time--turn orange or pink--discard it.

This sourdough starter enhances the quality of bread in terms of texture, crust and flavor. Consider the recipes that follow. The sourdough baguettes have great spring to their texture and substance in their taste, while the sourdough focaccia is chewy and robust, laden with garlic, shallots and rosemary. One of the distinct advantages of a flat bread is time--no need to let it rise on the pan, as loaves typically do. This not only saves an hour but allows for at least fairly instant gratification.

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This is a simple formula for a starter. You can use tap water but water that’s been used for cooking potatoes is preferable. Just be sure to let the water cool down to warm--about 105 to 115 degrees.

SOURDOUGH STARTER

2 cups bread flour

2 cups warm potato cooking liquid

1 package dry yeast

Combine bread flour, potato liquid and dry yeast in glass or pottery bowl. Cover with cheesecloth (to allow air to contact mixture). Let stand at room temperature 2 days, stirring at least once per day. It should become bubbly with clear, yellowish liquid on top that becomes incorporated when stirred in.

(Each time you use starter, replenish with equal amounts of bread flour and water. Starter should be at room temperature before using. When not in use, keep refrigerated in airtight container. Should starter turn pink or orange, discard it. As starter ages, it will develop stronger sourdough flavor.)

For 3-cup flour recipes, use 1/2 cup starter with 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water mixed with 1 package of dry yeast for mild sourdough flavor. For fuller flavor, use 1 cup starter and scant 1 cup warm water mixed with 1 package of dry yeast. Makes 2 cups.

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Mixing dry yeast into the starter as well as adding it to the bread dough as a boost to the starter makes sourdough bread baking predictable and satisfying. For a great crust, shape the loaves, drape them with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight. Let come to room temperature (they will not double) and place in cold oven. Then turn on oven to 375 degrees and bake until bottom of loaf sounds hollow when rapped, about 35 to 40 minutes.

SOURDOUGH BAGUETTES

1 package active dry yeast

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

1/2 cup Sourdough Starter

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 cups bread flour

1 teaspoon salt

Oil

Cornmeal

In bowl stir yeast into warm water.

Put starter, flours and salt into processor fitted with metal blade. Turn on processor. Through feed tube, slowly add yeast mixture, then 1 tablespoon oil. Process dough until supple, elastic and sticking slightly to sides of work bowl, about 1 minute. Add more water or flour by teaspoon, if dough is too dry and hard or too soupy. Dough should be slightly sticky. Alternately, use mixer fitted with dough hook until dough is kneaded, about 6 to 8 minutes.

Transfer dough to large plastic food bag, squeeze out air and seal tightly at top of bag to allow enough room for dough to expand. Set bag in bowl and let dough rise in warm spot until doubled, about 1 hour.

Oil double baguette bread pan. Sprinkle bottom lightly with cornmeal. Punch dough down, place on generously floured work surface, and divide in half. Roll each piece into rectangle. Start on long side to roll up dough. Pinch seams to seal. Gently stretch to fit pan. Place seam side down in prepared pan. Sprinkle flour lightly over top. Drape loosely with plastic wrap, oiled on underside. Let dough rise in warm spot until doubled, about 1 hour. Slash loaves with sharp knife.

Bake loaves on bottom oven rack at 375 degrees until golden brown and sound hollow when tapped on bottom, about 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from pan. Let cool on wire rack. Makes 2 baguettes.

Each serving contains about:

107 calories; 148 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

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Consider this robust focaccia as a great accompaniment to soups, salads and hearty suppers or as a mouthwatering sandwich bread for cheeses, leftover meat or poultry or vegetarian fillings.

ROSEMARY, GARLIC AND SHALLOT FOCACCIA

Sourdough Baguette dough

Oil

Cornmeal

2 tablespoons warm olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

3 large shallots, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, minced

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Red pepper flakes

Once dough has doubled first time, it is ready to roll out. Alternately, it can be punched down and refrigerated overnight.

Oil 2 pizza pans, preferably black steel. Sprinkle lightly with cornmeal. Divide dough in half. Gently roll 1/2 into 10-inch diameter round. Transfer to pan. Repeat with remaining half. Pierce rounds with fork. Brush rounds with warm oil. Scatter garlic, shallots, rosemary, salt and red pepper flakes over each, dividing evenly and separating shallot slices into rings. Bake 1 at time on bottom oven rack at 425 degrees until lightly browned on edges, about 18 minutes. Cut into wedges. Serve warm. Makes 2 (10-inch) rounds.

Each serving contains about:

126 calories; 222 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.10 gram fiber.

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This is an irresistible raisin-laden bread, inspired by the raisin-pecan bread at the Corner Bakery in Chicago. The whole-wheat flour reinforces its peasant characteristics.

RAISIN-PECAN SOURDOUGH BAGUETTES

1 package active dry yeast

2 tablespoons sugar

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

1/2 cup Sourdough Starter at room temperature

2 cups bread flour

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

2 cups raisins

1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

Oil

1 egg

1/2 teaspoon salt

In bowl stir yeast and sugar into warm water.

Put starter, flours, salt and cinnamon into processor fitted with metal blade. Turn processor on. With processor running, pour yeast mixture through feed tube, then oil. Process dough until supple, elastic and sticking slightly to sides of work bowl, about 1 minute. Add more water or flour by teaspoon, if dough is too dry and hard or too soupy. Keep in mind that dough should be slightly sticky. Alternately, use mixer fitted with dough hook until dough is kneaded, about 6 to 8 minutes.

Transfer dough to large plastic food bag. Add raisins and pecans. Through bag, work raisins and pecans into dough until uniformly distributed. Squeeze out air and seal tightly at top of bag to allow enough room for dough to expand. Set bag in bowl. Let dough rise in warm spot until doubled, about 1 hour, 20 minutes.

Oil double baguette bread pan. Punch dough down, place on generously floured work surface. Divide in half. Roll each piece into rectangle. Start on long side to roll up dough. Pinch seams to seal. Gently stretch to fit pan and place seam side down in prepared pan. Drape loosely with plastic wrap, oiled side down. Let dough rise in warm spot until doubled, about 1 hour, 15 minutes. Alternately, dough can be refrigerated overnight, loosely draped with plastic wrap, oiled on underside. Let come to room temperature before placing in cold oven. Loaves will be more compact but with excellent texture.

Fifteen minutes before baking, put rack in bottom of oven and set at 375 degrees.

Mix egg and salt in small dish until frothy. Brush egg-glaze mixture lightly over doubled loaves.

Bake loaves on bottom oven rack at 375 degrees until dark-brown and sound hollow when tapped on bottom, about 35 to 40 minutes. Raisins on outside surface will char. Remove loaves from pan. Let cool on wire rack. Makes 2 baguettes.

Each serving contains about:

238 calories; 229 mg sodium; 13 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.59 gram fiber.