Griddle Me This Grouper

The Gulf Coast of Florida has a distinctive way of serving fish. Fresh local catch--grouper, flounder, pompano, snapper or yellowtail, to name just a sampling--is either fried or “grilled” (actually, griddled). And the fish is always the star; the side dishes tend to be simple things like French fries (or spicy Cajun fries), baked potatoes and ranch salads.

The best starters at a Florida-style fish feed are cold stone crab claws and/or steamed or beer-simmered Gulf shrimp, those incredibly sweet morsels that arrive at the table still dressed in their distinctively thin shells. Peeling the shells is a hands-on pleasure, and the meat requires only a dab of horseradish-sharp cocktail sauce for a perfect treat. To end the meal, Key lime pie is the tradition.

Back from a trip to Florida, I decided to adapt a few Gulf Coast restaurant dishes for home cooking. The ranch salad isn’t exactly what we think of as fine dining, but it’s difficult to snub its crunch and flavor. Because the salad is robust, it’s best served (with warm, crusty rolls and butter) before the fish.

The delicate fish fillets are quick-seared on the stove top and baked briefly until sizzling in a hot oven. This two-step cooking procedure brings out the freshness of the fish without overcooking. And fillets that otherwise would fall apart when completely cooked in the skillet stay whole when cooked this way. Served with lemon wedges and the mustard mayonnaise that typically accompanies cold stone crab claws, this is simple fish at its best. Serve baked potatoes or French fries with it.

Key lime pie has a lot of nostalgia going for it, but often it’s a culinary disappointment because of its cloying sweetness and gummy texture. This version is delicious--tart, creamy and light.

Cold beer is the best drink to go along with the meal, but the dessert requires a cup of steaming, full-bodied coffee.

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Freshness is key in this simple preparation. The fillets are dipped in a seasoned flour, with any excess shaken loose so they are not heavily coated. They are seared on the stove top, then finished in a 500-degree oven until cooked through and sizzling. Serve with lemon wedges and mustard mayonnaise.

SIZZLING FISH FILLETS WITH MUSTARD MAYONNAISE

1/4 cup flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

12 fresh fish fillets, about 2 1/2 ounces each, such as sea bass, sole, tilapia or flounder, rinsed, patted dry

1 1/2 tablespoons butter

1 1/2 tablespoons oil

Lemon wedges

Mustard Mayonnaise, optional

Sift flour, salt and pepper into shallow dish or onto wax paper. Coat fish fillets with flour mixture, shaking off excess.

Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When very hot, brown fillets in batches. Place fillets, rounded-side-down, in sizzling pan and cook until well browned, about 2 minutes. Turn and brown other side, about 1 minute. Use metal spatula to transfer, rounded-side-up, to baking sheet lined with foil.

Bake fillets on baking sheet on middle oven rack at 500 degrees until cooked through and sizzling, about 3 minutes for thin fillets, little more for thicker fillets. Do not overcook fish. Serve hot with lemon wedges and dollop of Mustard Mayonnaise. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

183 calories; 402 mg sodium; 98 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

Mustard Mayonnaise

1/2 cup light mayonnaise

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Combine mayonnaise, mustard and sugar in small bowl. Chill. Can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Serve chilled. Makes 1/2 cup.

Each tablespoon contains about:

53 calories; 125 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; trace protein; trace fiber.

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The Seawitch fish restaurant in Naples, Fla., serves a salad similar to this. There, the salad is put into a large bowl, tossed in the ranch dressing and set in the center of the table, family-style. The dressing is also delicious as a dip for crudites. The salad ingredients can vary except for the iceberg lettuce that, in combination with the dressing, gives the salad its character.

SEAWITCH RANCH SALAD

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

1/2 large head iceberg lettuce, cored, cut into small cubes

6 radishes, thinly sliced

10 cherry tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup shredded carrot

1 cup Ranch Dressing

1/2 cup shredded feta cheese

Place onion, lettuce, radishes, tomatoes and carrot in large salad bowl. Place in refrigerator and chill. Can be done several hours ahead.

To serve, toss salad with 1 cup Ranch Dressing. Add more dressing, if desired. Sprinkle with feta cheese. Set bowl in center of table with 6 chilled salad bowls for family-style service. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

110 calories; 329 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.77 gram fiber.

Ranch Dressing

1/2 cup parsley leaves, stems removed

1 medium clove garlic

2 medium green onions, white parts only, halved

1/2 cup low-fat buttermilk

1/2 cup light mayonnaise

1/2 cup light sour cream

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 teaspoons sugar

Put parsley, garlic and green onions in food processor fitted with metal blade or blender. Use on/off motion to mince contents. Add buttermilk, mayonnaise, sour cream, cider vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper and sugar. Mix well. Adjust seasonings to taste. Can be made 2 days ahead, covered tightly and refrigerated. Makes 1 1/3 cups. *

Key lime pie is typically sweet and dense. Here I have made the filling creamy and light by using two whole eggs and some yogurt in place of the usual five egg yolks. A little cornstarch binds the filling so that it doesn’t flow when cut, but it is still appealingly soft. Key limes are smaller, rounder and more tart than the Persian limes that are found in our supermarkets. Both varieties work in this recipe.

KEY LIME PIE

1 (14-ounce) can condensed milk

2 eggs, separated

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (1/2 cup if using Key Lime juice)

1/4 cup plain low-fat yogurt

Dash cream of tartar

3 tablespoons sugar

Graham Cracker Crust

1 cup whipping cream

Whisk condensed milk, egg yolks, cornstarch and lime juice in 1-quart bowl until smooth. Whisk in yogurt.

Put egg whites, cream of tartar and 1 tablespoon sugar in mixer bowl. Whip egg whites until thick and shiny. Whisk 1/4 of whipped egg whites into lime mixture. Fold in remaining egg whites. Pour mixture into cooled Graham Cracker Crust. Place pie on baking sheet.

Bake on center oven rack at 350 degrees until set, about 12 minutes, no more than 15 minutes. Let cool completely on wire rack. Surface cracks may appear as pie cools.

Whip whipping cream in mixer with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until thick. Spread whipped cream over surface of cooled pie. Can be served immediately or refrigerated several hours. Cut in wedges to serve. Makes 1 (9-inch) pie, 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

490 calories; 254 mg sodium; 134 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 57 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.22 gram fiber.

Graham Cracker Crust

11 whole graham crackers (not halves), broken into pieces

1/4 cup light-brown sugar, packed

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Put graham crackers, brown sugar and allspice into processor fitted with metal blade or blender. Process until texture is uniformly fine. Add melted butter, using processor on/off motion to mix.

Transfer crumbs to 9-inch shallow oven-proof glass pie pan. Spread evenly. Press firmly on bottom and up sides.

Bake on center oven rack at 375 degrees 8 minutes. Crust will be lightly browned. Refrigerate 20 minutes before filling. Makes 1 (9-inch) crust.

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