Lazy Fish

A favorite formula among French chefs for obtaining moist, succulent fish happens to be an easy, low-fat cooking method. It requires only five ingredients besides the fish: fish stock, wine, shallots, salt and pepper. The fish and seasonings are placed in a baking dish, covered and baked in a hot oven. You don’t even have to turn the fish over during cooking.

(You can buy frozen fish stock at fish markets and fine supermarkets; if you don’t have fish stock, use canned vegetable broth.)

Chefs call this technique “braising,” but it could more precisely be described as moist baking. The dry, uniform heat of the oven cooks the fish evenly, yet less fat is needed than for roasting or dry baking. A small amount of liquid prevents the fish from drying out. Much less liquid is used than in poaching, so the fish keeps its natural taste and the liquid itself acquires a good, concentrated flavor.

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The usual flavoring for the cooking liquid is minced shallot, but you can substitute garlic or green onions. Or place a few sprigs of fresh thyme or tarragon in the baking dish. And quick-cooking vegetables--such as mushrooms, tomatoes and thin strips of leek--enhance the taste of the sauce.

To turn the cooking liquid into a sauce, boil the liquid to reduce it and enrich it with cream or butter, or add it to a separately prepared sauce. For quick meals skip the reducing step and simply add a few tablespoons of the liquid to a quick vinaigrette or tomato sauce. An even faster idea is to use the liquid as is, served on a bed of rice, couscous or orzo with the fish.

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Freeze any fish cooking liquid left from this recipe, and use whenever you need fish stock. Parchment paper is best for covering the fish during baking--it permits some steam to escape so the liquid begins to reduce but keeps some steam in so the fish will not be dry.

BASIC MOIST-BAKED FISH

1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds fish of choice, steaks or fillets, about 1 inch thick

1 tablespoon minced shallot

Oil or butter

2 tablespoons dry white wine

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 to 2/3 cup Fish Stock, fresh or thawed frozen or canned vegetable broth

If using fillets, remove bones with tweezers or paring knife.

Sprinkle shallot in oiled 10-cup oval gratin or heavy shallow baking dish. Arrange fish pieces in dish in 1 layer. Pour wine over top. Lightly season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring 1/2 cup stock to simmer in small saucepan and pour over fish. If liquid doesn’t cover base of baking dish, add more stock. Set oiled parchment paper or foil cut to size of dish directly on fish. Bake at 425 degrees about 10 minutes. When tested with fork at thickest point, fish should be opaque and just flake.

Remove fish to platter, reserving cooking liquid. Cover fish with oiled paper and keep warm. If desired, strain cooking liquid before using as sauce or adding to sauce. Makes 4 servings.

Note : To make quick sauce, bring cooking liquid to boil in small saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons butter. Whisk over low heat just until blended. Remove from heat. Add 2 teaspoons chopped fresh herbs.

Fish Stock

1 1/2 pounds fish bones, tails and heads of non-oily fish or 1 pound fish pieces for chowder

1 tablespoon oil or butter

1 onion, sliced

5 cups water

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

Rinse fish bones under cold running water 5 minutes. Then drain.

Heat oil in heavy, large saucepan over low heat. Add onion. Cook, stirring often, until tender, about 10 minutes. Add fish bones, water just to cover, thyme and bay leaf. Bring to boil, skimming surface occasionally. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes.

Strain stock. If not using within 1 day, freeze. Makes about 1 quart.