A Golden, Delicious Getaway

Julian, known by locals as “queen of the backcountry,” is an idyllic frontier town blessed with an abundance of apple orchards and lilacs, in northeast San Diego County. It was founded as a gold mining town during the early 1870s and is said to have actually once rivaled San Diego itself for the position of county seat. Today, it is a town of fewer than 3,000 and the only state-designated Historical District in San Diego County.

To get there, take California 78 from Carlsbad, which takes you through scenic farmland (from eastern Orange County, you can take Interstate 15 to California 78). Once you’ve arrived in the area, you’ll find diversions enough to last well beyond a three-hour tour: spectacular hikes in nearby William Heise Park, interesting local restaurants and a wealth of small craft shops. During the week is the best time to visit. On weekends, the town is crowded with tourists from the big city who know a good thing when they see one.

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10 to 10:30: No visit to Julian would be complete without a trip to the Julian Pie Co., run by the Smothers family. It’s one of many pie shops here in town on the quaint main street, and the pie they bake up is nearly perfect.

This is apple country, and the many varieties grown here--Jonathan, Winesap, Golden Delicious and others--have played a big part in this town’s economic and civil history. The Smothers family relies mostly on the homey pippin to fill its flaky, shortening rich crust, which is just like Grandma used to make. (And if you’re lucky, there will be sugared cookies made from the leftover crust, at 20 cents apiece.)

The shop is button-cute, with a slat-board patio in the front framed with lilacs and parasols, and a rear patio punctuated by swinging chairs.

The pies ($1.75 a slice, $7 and up for the whole thing) come in four varieties: apple, Dutch apple, natural (sugar-free) and berry apple. All are celestial.

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10:30 to 11: Looking down Main Street, you can spot the lovely Julian Hotel, a Victorian-style bed-and-breakfast inn built by a freed slave nearly 100 years ago. Normally, it is open only to guests, but on weekdays, when the hotel is not busy, someone will be glad to let you in and give you a tour.

This is an extremely well-kept place, and the many rooms, though small, all have four-poster beds, and each is uniquely decorated. The downstairs living room exudes Victorian charm: Bathrooms, generally shared by hotel guests, are called “necessary rooms,” and there is a peaceful front porch facing the street where you can sit and envision the 19th Century. It’s easily the best-known landmark in this town, and a must-see.

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11 to noon: The Julian Pioneer Museum is one more way to envision what life must have been like here during and after the Gold Rush days.

The museum houses turn-of-the-century clothing, household equipment, lace, weaving, pianos, taxidermy and many photos and historical records, all crammed into a converted brewery. It’s a small museum, only 2,120 square feet, but somehow, an hour does not feel like enough time in here. Native American artifacts from local tribes are of particular interest.

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Noon to 1: When was the last time you visited a gold mine? Six blocks off Julian’s main street are the Eagle and High Peak Gold Mines, where you can relive history as you tour what was once an actual underground operation dating from the last century.

All tours are conducted by guides and feature views of 1,000 feet of hard-rock tunnel, antique engines, a rock and mineral display as well as an explanation of the gold-extraction process from gold-bearing quartz veins.

On my visit, I met visitors from Germany, New Zealand and Japan, all of whom seemed to know more about geology and American frontier history than anyone in my group. But we knew how to shop for apple cider, fried chicken and homemade pie, and their smugness turned to envy when they saw us unpack our basket at the mine’s lovely little picnic area, after the tour was finished.

Julian 1. Julian Pie Co. 2225 Main St. (619) 765-2449 Open daily, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

2. Julian Hotel 2032 Main St. (619) 765-0201 Room rates, which include afternoon tea and full breakfast for two, are $64 to $145. Call for visiting hours.

3. Julian Pioneer Museum 2811 Washington St. (619) 765-0227 Open daily, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Suggested donation, $1.

4. Eagle and High Peak Gold Mines North end of C Street (619) 765-0036 Open daily, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission, $5.

Parking: There is free, on-street parking throughout town.