GARDEN FRESH : The Wine-Dipped Leaves of Summer

It’s as though Bacchus, the Roman god of wine and revelry, had taken up gardening. He picked his lettuces and dipped them in wine--from young rose to vintage Burgundy. Thus red-leaf lettuces were born.

Like yellow in tomatoes, blue in potatoes, purple in peppers and black in beans, red sets a lettuce apart. But when lettuce is red, it’s not one color but many. Every hue of green is splattered, marbled or tipped with every hue of red. You can forget what you were saying when your eye lights on Merveille des Quatre Saisons, its crinkled leaves luscious burgundy, hot pink, lime and cream.

The first thing I do with each new red lettuce is to serve it on its own, simply dressed with mild olive oil, fresh lemon juice, salt and pepper. That’s the best way to judge its flavor.

Then I look for ways to enhance its beauty. Although the flavor of red lettuces may be mild, you can slip them into a dish meant for cress--lots of freshly ground pepper gives the oomph. Buttermilk soup with finely chopped crunchy red lettuce is an example. Sometimes I treat them as a pot herb--thin red ribbons with those of sorrel and chopped parsley stirred into broth.

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I mix bunches of ribbons with fettuccine at the table--lots of garlic and cheese--tossed so fast the leaves barely wilt. In a stir-fry with other greens, I add half the red lettuce leaves in large pieces at the end, and then--for special color and crunch--toss in raw leaves just before serving.

And that’s not to forget the composed salad--it’s fun putting tasty reds together--perhaps on a bed of torn red lettuce leaves, crescents of ruby grapefruit, clusters of red grapes, rings of red onions, leaves of opal basil, and crimson nasturtiums glistening with oil and red wine vinegar.

Cooked until tender-crisp, red lettuces turn mysterious hues. Bunches of red romaine tied with string and briefly poached in broth, then baked in a shallow dish topped with cheese, are superb. Red crisphead lettuces are terrific roughly chopped and cooked uncovered in a heavy skillet with a drizzle of olive oil. Use medium heat and stir almost constantly to keep from scorching--about five minutes in all. (The best way for a special red lettuce is to simmer ribbons in a little cream then top with fine shreds of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and a dash of freshly grated nutmeg.)

The one or two offerings of red-leaf lettuces at the supermarket give no hint of the wealth of cultivars we can grow.

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In practical terms, there are four sorts of lettuces, great reds in every one.

* Looseleaf has no curled heart; the leaves gather in a loose rosette. This is the easiest type of lettuce to grow.

* Butterhead lettuces do form a head, but a loose and floppy one--the leaves are velvety and the interior is blanched creamy white. Bibb and Boston lettuces, for instance, are butterheads.

* Romaine (or Cos) lettuce heads grow straight up, the leaves long and narrow and stiff. Romaines are the best value among lettuces, being the most nourishing and giving the greatest yield for space.

* Crispheads are what we think of as Iceberg lettuces. They’re the slowest to mature and most difficult to grow well. Actually, Icebergs are descended from Batavians, a European style of crisphead with looser heads and crunchier leaves.

In the border, I love Iceland poppies among red lettuces--the poppies hover over them like brilliant butterflies. Red lettuces resemble exotic roses and even crisp-heads have an aureole of floppy leaves. The produce man strips off these large leaves, but you and I can arrange them on a platter as a leafy doily for the fish, or chop them up and add their flavor to a soup.

Lettuce wants rich, loose, well-draining soil, and full sun where it’s cool, part shade where it’s hot. Summer-grown lettuces need a deep mulch--straw or leaves--and the soil should be constantly moist but not soggy.

In the high desert, sow from early autumn through winter. In the hottest parts of the interior, you’re safest with autumn-sown lettuces. Outdoor sowing time then is through summer. Everywhere else in Southern California, traditional sowing time is early autumn through spring. But there are ways to coax lettuce from summer.

For hot summer starts, choose heat-resistant cultivars. Loose-leaf lettuces are the least likely to go to seed. Lollo Rossa has deeply furled leaves, ice green with reddish tips. Red Salad Bowl has leaves like those of oaks in autumn. Mascara also has dark red oak leaves that hold their color in the heat.

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Red Riding Hood is a heat-resistant red butterhead, even redder than Merveille des Quatre Saisons. Rosy, a crisphead with leaves tinted red to burgundy, grows well in less than ideal conditions. Sierra is a Batavia, bright-green tinged bronze-y red. It’s famous for keeping its head when everyone around it has bolted. Canasta is another Batavia, green leaves dappled red with a mellow flavor that is impressive spring through summer.

Lettuce seeds won’t germinate when the soil is warmer than 80 degrees, so sprinkle a pinch of seeds in a container of soilless mix and put it somewhere indoors at about 70 degrees, keeping it moist but not wet. Or you can sprinkle seeds in a moist spot outdoors under a thick broad plank. Look under it daily. Once the seeds sprout, remove the plank immediately. Give the seedlings diffused shade with a propped-up screen or brush of some sort, or move them next to pole beans, climbing cucumbers and staked tomatoes. Cage in chicken wire against nibbling critters and keep an eye out for slugs and snails.

If you sow a pinch of seeds every week or two, you won’t have to worry about lettuce turning bitter as it flowers and goes to seed. You’ll always have sweet leaves. (Lettuces that start to flower are edible, though. They’ll be bitter, but just pretend they’re chicory.) When seedlings are two inches high, transplant or thin them to stand about six inches apart. It’s important any time of year to pick lettuce young--whether leaf by leaf from the outside of the plant at the base or by taking the whole head. You can pick crispheads and Batavias leaf by leaf until they form a head.

In autumn, sow seeds of butterhead Brune d’Hiver, one of the most beautiful and flavorful of lettuces. In cold climates under a floating row cover, it will sail through winter, although plants won’t grow. Rouge d’Hiver is a loose romaine lettuce with gorgeous rosy leaves, tolerant of heat and cold--one to grow most of the year. In the mountains, in the January thaw, scratch seeds of butterhead May King into the cold frame, keep them covered, and harvest red-tinged leaves the end of spring.

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Then in early spring, sow the tender, slightly tangy Merveille, above (aka Four Seasons). For a nutted lettuce, grow butterhead Pirat, mottled bronze and green. For its endurance as the weather warms, plant crisphead Red Grenoble, with sparkling red leaves. Red Sails, a handsome loose leaf, will do well just about anywhere.

Many of these lettuces are crinkled and curled. They need careful rinsing, but not much before serving. Drop leaves into a big bowl of warmish water. Change waters until there is no sand at the bottom of the bowl. Spin the leaves dry in a salad spinner, then refrigerate in a bowl with a damp cloth over them. They will keep fresh several hours. Then prepare as desired.

Sources

Fresh: The best selection is probably at a farmers market.

Seeds: Mascara and Canasta from Territorial Seed Co., 20 Palmer Ave, Cottage Grove, Ore. 97424. All others and floating row covers from the Cook’s Garden, Box 535, Londonderry, Vt. 05148.

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Don’t think because berries make the dressing, that this is a woman’s luncheon sort of salad. Sweet basil, orange juice and freshly ground pepper give it snap. When the present flush of strawberries is past, crimson raspberries are even more delicious.

Tangy berries do well with rich flavors, so you might serve the salad beside broiled sea bass or halibut steaks garnished with lemon slices, and crispy baked shoestring potatoes. A light dry white wine, then pistachio ice cream for dessert. The lettuces and the dressing may be prepared several hours in advance.

RED-LEAF LETTUCES WITH SWEET BASIL-BERRY DRESSING 1/2 cup smooth puree of fresh strawberries (from about 2/3 cup, hulled) or fresh raspberries (from about 1 cup) 3 tablespoons to 1/4 cup fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons oil 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh sweet basil leaves or 1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried basil leaves Salt Freshly ground white pepper 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, optional 5 quarts loosely packed red-leaf lettuce torn into large-bite-size pieces

In small pitcher, blend berry puree, orange juice (1/4 cup for strawberries, 3 tablespoons for raspberries), oil and basil. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. If more tartness is desired, add lemon juice to taste. Heap lettuce in bowl, preferably glass or contrasting color. Cover dressing and lettuce. Chill.

Just before serving, stir dressing to blend. Then pour over lettuce. Toss with hands for gentlest, most thorough mixing. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about: 44 calories; 40 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.33 gram fiber.