Dressing Up the Picnic Table

Like barbecues, picnics give the impression of having come together all by themselves. Of course, we know they really don’t, but the illusion is important. So consider the three recipes that follow--basic picnic foods that can be varied with seasonal vegetable salads and fresh fruits as the summer drifts on.

Firm, pale-green picholine olives are great for nibbling unadorned but even better when marinated with orange zest and herbs. Pates are carefully made meat loaves, weighted down as they cool to make a very compact texture that slices neatly and easily. Take along crusty bread and a choice of mustards and crisp tart pickles ( cornichons ) to go with this ground turkey pate.

Chocolate cake is everybody’s favorite; the problem is getting the cake to survive, so that it doesn’t become too soft and gooey in the warm weather. The thin, moist truffle cake fills the bill; it has a deep chocolate flavor, so it needs no frosting, just a dusting of powdered sugar on top.

*

Depending on how many are in your party, cheeses and more cold meats can be added to the picnic basket. These recipes can be prepared several days ahead (the cake freezes very well) to make the last-minute preparations and purchases easier to handle.

*

If picholine olives are difficult to find in your area, substitute other green or mild black olives with pits. The stripper gadget is a companion to the zester; it removes the zest in ridged strips. Otherwise, use a sharp swivel-bladed vegetable peeler.

ORANGE HERBED PICHOLINE OLIVES 2 cups picholine olives 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon thyme 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon orange juice Zest 1 large navel orange, removed with stripper

Combine olives, oregano, thyme, olive oil, orange juice and orange zest. Mix well. Refrigerate, well covered, at least 3 days or as long as 2 weeks. Serve at room temperature. Makes 2 cups.

Each 1-tablespoon serving contains about: 23 calories; 47 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; 2 grams fat; trace carbohydrates; trace protein; 0.09 gram fiber.

*

In this pate, ground turkey has been substituted for the customary veal. The pate should be made about three days in advance, so the flavors have a chance to blend.

COUNTRY PATE 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, minced 4 large cloves garlic, minced 5 slices bacon (apple-wood smoked, preferred) 2 tablespoons soft bread crumbs 3 tablespoons minced parsley 3 tablespoons snipped chives 3/4 pound ground lean pork 1 pound ground turkey 1/4 cup Cognac 1 large egg 2 large egg whites 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon Dijon mustard Cornichons Thinly sliced rustic baguette bread

Heat oil in medium non-stick skillet. When hot, add onion and garlic. Cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer to 4-cup bowl.

Mince 2 slices bacon in processor with metal blade or by hand. Add to onion mixture along with bread crumbs, parsley, chives, pork, turkey, Cognac, egg, egg whites, salt, thyme, oregano, allspice, nutmeg and cinnamon. Mix with wooden spoon until well combined. In skillet saute small bit of mixture to taste for seasonings.

Spoon pate mixture into greased 3-cup terrine mold or baking dish lined with parchment paper. Bang pan down several times to eliminate air bubbles. Top with reserved bacon slices, arranged in single layer. Cover tightly with foil. Put terrine in pan slightly larger than terrine dish. Set on oven rack. Carefully pour in hot water to reach half way up sides of dish.

Bake at 350 degrees 2 1/2 hours. Remove from water bath. Cool on rack, weighting pate down (brick or large stone wrapped in foil works well). Chill (still weighting down until well chilled) at least 2 days, before serving. Can be made 4 days ahead and refrigerated, or can be frozen 3 months. Serve chilled, thinly sliced, with mustard, cornichons and thinly sliced bread. Makes 1 (7-inch) loaf, about 8 to 10 servings.

Each serving contains about: 250 calories; 408 mg sodium; 85 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

*

This cake bakes into a thin, dense and moist layer. It slices neatly into small portions for guests who just want a taste.

MOIST TRUFFLE CAKE 1/2 cup unsalted butter 3 ounces semisweet chocolate 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa (preferably Dutch-processed) 4 large eggs, separated 3/4 cup sugar 1 1/2 tablespoons water Dash salt 2 teaspoons vanilla 1/4 cup cake flour 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 tablespoon powdered sugar

Melt butter with chocolate and cocoa in microwave oven or stove top in double boiler. Transfer to mixing bowl to cool slightly.

Use mixer to whip egg yolks, sugar, water, salt and vanilla on high speed 2 minutes. Add chocolate mixture on low speed, then flour.

Whip egg whites and cream of tartar in clean mixing bowl until they hold soft, moist peaks. Thoroughly mix in 1/4 of egg whites into cake batter. Gently fold in remaining whites. Transfer to greased (8-inch) springform pan, bottom lined with greased foil and floured. Wrap outside of springform with foil to eliminate any leakage.

Bake at 300 degrees until wood pick inserted in center comes out moist (but not with wet crumbs), about 40 minutes. Do not overbake. Cool 1 hour in pan. Carefully remove from pan. Can be held overnight at room temperature, well covered, or frozen as long as 2 months. Serve at room temperature with powdered sugar pressed through fine sieve to coat top. Makes about 8 servings.

Each serving contains about: 284 calories; 70 mg sodium; 137 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.