Find Studs to Secure a Bathtub Grab Bar
QUESTION: I had a company out to install a bathtub grab bar, but they could not successfully locate the studs. They recommend some other methods of installing a grab bar instead of attaching it to studs. What method do you recommend?
ANSWER: The only method that I recommend for securing a grab bar is to fasten it to the studs. A person can exert considerable force on a grab bar, and if the bar is not adequately fastened, it will probably pull right out of the wall, rather than being loosened.
Many people mistake the washcloth rail on a ceramic soap dish as a grab bar. It is not designed for this. In our opinion, the only grab bar suitable for a bathtub is one made of stainless steel and secured to the studs. There are instruments that can be used to locate studs.
How to Repair Older Garage Door Opener
Q: My daughter has a 10-year-old garage door opener that needs repair, but the repairman says the manufacturer told him replacement parts are no longer available. Can you help?
A: Even if the parts were available, the repairman might not want to install them, because the door does not meet current safety standards. The garage door opener does not comply with recent guidelines established by Underwriters Laboratory (UL Standard 235). This is important because between 1982 and 1988, 48 children between the ages of 2 and 14 died from being trapped under garage doors operated by automatic openers.
Federal law mandated that as of Jan. 1, 1993, all new residential garage doors must comply with UL 235. This requires that garage door opener assemblies include a photo electric sensor or other device that will reverse the door if it comes in contact with someone or something as it is closing. It also requires apparatus to automatically disable the opener should the sensor malfunction.
There are no federal restrictions on repairing older residential garage door openers, but several states require these older devices be brought into compliance with UL 235 at the time repairs are made to them.
What’s Best Cleaner for Aluminum Siding?
Q: We have been unable to find anything that will clean the accumulation of dirt and other particles on our aluminum siding. It seems the siding is clean from about 4 to 5 feet down from the eaves. Above that, the siding seems to have a rough or granular surface which will not wash off with a sponge and laundry detergent. What is the best way to handle this problem?
A: Stubborn soils start at the bottom and work up. This keeps hard-to-remove dirty streaks from running down the wall below the dirty under-eave area. After cleaning and washing, it’s important that the siding be thoroughly flushed with water.
Special siding cleaners, available at your local hardware store can help. Mildew, which appears as black spots, usually shows up in areas isolated from rainfall. Try using a solution of one quart Clorox, one-third cup of non-abrasive detergent and two-thirds cup of trisodium phosphate. Rinse the area with your garden hose after washing it.
