Cooking From an Italian Garden

When you live in the Tuscan countryside, it is very simple to go downstairs to the vegetable garden and be inspired by the selection of ripe produce available for the menu of the day. Our vegetable garden is in the middle of the main garden, like a jewel in a setting of flowers.

Exposed to this abundance, we have all learned that the secret of successful cooking lies in choosing fresh ingredients and letting the flavors speak for themselves.

The real secret of Italian cooking is simplicity. Ingredients demand the utmost respect for their natural flavor and texture, and they should never be covered up with too many elements or sauces. Fruits and vegetables invariably taste better if they are ripened in the sunshine and are as fresh from the soil as possible.

And produce in season that is grown locally is always preferable to that imported from a distance. Ideally, buy direct from a farmer who grows organically, using natural methods to combat weeds and pests.

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Of course, not everyone has access to vegetables of this quality. And organic produce costs considerably more than vegetables grown by modern farming methods. Fortunately, more and more farmers are adopting methods of cultivation that, while significantly more labor-intensive, produce better-quality produce with a positive effect on the earth from which they came.

SWISS CHARD PIE (Torta Di Bietole)

3 1/4 pounds Swiss chard

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 serrano chile, sliced

1/4 cup ricotta cheese

1/3 cup raisins, soaked to soften, then drained

2/3 cup pine nuts

1 egg

Salt

Pie Crust Dough

Remove white stalks and ribs from Swiss chard and discard. In pan simmer leaves in small amount salted water 1 to 2 minutes. Drain. Squeeze chard dry and chop into small pieces.

Heat oil in large skillet over moderate heat. Add garlic and chile. Saute several minutes. Add chard. Continue to cook over high heat to evaporate excess liquid, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Mix together ricotta, raisins, pine nuts and egg in bowl. Add Swiss chard mixture. Season to taste with salt. Mix well.

Generously grease 8-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Place Pie Crust Dough in center and spread out with fingertips, covering bottom and sides evenly. Pierce pastry shell all over with fork. Bake at 350 degrees about 15 minutes.

Remove from oven and fill with chard mixture, spreading evenly. Bake 30 minutes longer. Allow to cool 10 minutes. Remove pie from pan and serve while still warm. Makes 4 servings.

Pie Crust Dough

1 1/4 cups flour, plus few tablespoons extra

6 tablespoons butter, softened and cut into little pieces

3 tablespoons water

Salt

Place flour and butter in bowl. Using fingertips, work mixture together until crumb-like. Add water and dash salt. Mix until smooth, soft ball of dough is formed.

Turn dough out onto working surface. Sprinkle with bit of flour. Cover with kitchen towel. Let stand 30 minutes.

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This is a very elegant and refreshing dessert, perfect for special occasions.

RICOTTA AND PEAR SEMIFREDDO WITH THYME (Semifreddo di Ricotta e Pere al Timo)

3 pears, peeled, cored and quartered

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 cup ricotta cheese

1/4 cup honey

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons rum

2 egg whites

Sprig fresh thyme, leaves only

Process pears with lemon juice in food processor until smooth. Mix with ricotta, honey, cinnamon and rum.

Beat egg whites in bowl until stiff. Fold into pear mixture. Divide among 4 freezer-proof cups. Sprinkle with thyme leaves. Cover and freeze 2 hours. Makes 4 servings.

Note : According to the United States Department of Agriculture, egg whites must be heated to 160 degrees to kill possible salmonella contamination. As a substitute, the department suggests using either pasteurized egg whites, or meringue powder, available in grocery stores. The substitution for 1 egg white is 1 teaspoon of meringue powder mixed with 2 teaspoons of water.

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This very tasty soup was fashionable during those times when nothing edible was ever wasted. Instead of peas with their pods, you could use fava beans.

GREEN PEA SOUP (Passato di Bucce di Piselli)

2 pounds 2 ounces green peas, unshelled

1 quart vegetable stock

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 onion, sliced

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

Water

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 thick slices coarse-textured country bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Salt, pepper

Shell peas and set aside. Rinse pods well and soak in fresh water 2 hours. Drain. Place pods in saucepan with vegetable stock and simmer until tender, 20 minutes. In blender, puree with stock. Set aside.

Melt butter in saucepan over moderate heat. Add onion and parsley. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Add shelled peas and little water. Cover and cook about 20 minutes, stirring and moistening with few tablespoons water every so often, until peas are tender.

Heat oil in skillet over high heat. Add bread cubes and fry until browned, stirring often. Drain on paper towels. Set aside in warm place.

Add puree of pea pods to prepared peas. Simmer together few minutes until heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve, accompanied by croutons. Makes 4 servings.