WALLS : Right Techniques Help Make Task of Installing Coverings Wrinkle-Free

Professional-looking wallpaper installation first requires preparing the walls and then using proper layout technique. Here’s an outline of the serious part of the job--pasting up the paper itself:

If you’re using pre-pasted wall covering, use an inexpensive plastic container called a water box or trough. Fill this about half-full with warm water and place it on a plastic garbage bag covered by old towels to blot up spilled water. Let the strips of paper soak for the amount of time specified by its manufacturer (usually less than a minute). Keep the paper rolled loosely from bottom to top and rotate it in the water.

Follow the manufacturer’s advice for wallpaper that requires adhesive. A vinyl paste is usually a good choice because it resists mildew. If you have a mildew problem in the room, buy a mildewcide additive and mix it in the paste.

Smooth the paste onto the paper’s back with a paint roller or wallpaper brush. Spread the paste evenly, including the edges. To keep the paste from getting over everything, fold the pasted side of the paper back on itself. This also prevents the adhesive from drying out. Work ahead and paste up a couple of strips so one strip can soak while you work with the other.

Wait at least five minutes after brushing adhesive onto a strip of wallpaper for it to set, or “wet out” as it’s called, before you hang it. Wallpaper expands when you wet it and contracts as it dries, so this wetting out lets it reach its maximum expansion and prevent bubbles from forming behind the paper once it’s hung.

Have your ladder in place and your tools at hand before bringing the folded and pasted strip to your starting point. Unfold the top section and position the strip so it lines up with the plumb line.

Don’t forget that you allowed for an extra two inches at the top of the piece. Hold the top in place and unfold the pasted bottom section so it drops to the floor. Work your way down the strip checking alignment with the plumb line.

Press the strip firmly against the wall. Work out the center of the strip using a brush or sponge to push air bubbles or wrinkles to the edges.

If you are very careful, you can use a broad knife (a six-inch-wide scraper, also called a flat knife) to do this also. Wipe off excess glue that oozes out of the edge of the strip. Hang the next strip and align the pattern by eye or with a level. Use a seam roller to press the edge in place and again after each strip is hung to prevent the seams from opening.

Trim the paper at the top and bottom after you’ve hung several strips. This is best done using a broad knife and a razor knife. Press the knife into the corner where the wall meets the ceiling, and draw the razor along it. Move the knife over as the razor reaches its end, then repeat the cut. Trim the paper at the floor the same way.

You have to negotiate around doors, windows, cabinets and other projections. To get the paper to lie flat next to these protrusions, use a pair of small pointed scissors or a razor to make relief cuts.

We’ll use a window frame as an example. Carefully align the strip so it’s plumb and the pattern matches the piece next to it. Smooth out the paper as much as possible. Make a 45-degree relief cut starting at the corner of the window trim, extending into the waste paper. Then, finish smoothing the paper and work out remaining wrinkles and air bubbles. Trim the paper flush against the edge of the opening the same way you trimmed up against the ceiling.