A Dunes-Day Escape

In the mid-eastern Colorado Desert is a slice of the Sahara, miles of sand dunes that rise out of the desert floor like a mirage.

California’s largest mass of dunes, known variously as the Imperial Dunes, Sand Hills, Algodones National Natural Landmark and Glamis Dunes, extends 45 miles northeast from the Mexican border along the eastern edge of the Imperial Valley.

Passage of the landmark California Desert Protection Act in October, 1994, gave wilderness designation to about 22,000 acres of dunes, formerly known as the Algodones Outstanding Natural Area. Off-highway vehicles will continue to be allowed to swarm over the southern two-thirds of the dune system, while nature-lovers may walk in peace through the new wilderness.

Dune-walking over the breathtakingly beautiful sand-scape is a joy, particularly in spring when the dunes are festooned with desert wildflowers.

The dunes emerged long ago when a series of lakes existed in the Salton Sea basin. When these Colorado River-fed lakes dried up during drought years, winds carried their shoreline and bottom sands southeastward and deposited them as dunes.

While constant movement of sand, summer temperatures reaching above 110 degrees Fahrenheit, and annual rainfall of less than two inches are not environmental conditions that would seem to encourage life, a splendid diversity of plants and animals have adapted in the harsh dune ecosystem.

The ubiquitous creosote bushes on the edge of the dunes are accompanied by smaller, more unusual flora extending into the heart of the dunes: desert buckwheat, witch grass, sandpaper plant and the silver-leafed dune sunflower.

What little water reaches the dunes--the scant rainfall and some flash-flood runoff from the nearby Chocolate Mountains--gives rise to often stunning spring wildflower displays. Evening primrose, purple sand verbena and orange mallow splash color on the sand.

Spring is when the desert lilies bloom. Clusters of the large, white funnel-shaped flowers adorn plants nearly six feet tall. Desert lilies can usually be found growing in large numbers on the north side of California 78, across the road from the ranger station.

Some unusual creatures call the dunes home. The banded gecko, a small lizard, has notched, interlocking eyelids that keep sand out of its eyes; if sand does manage to land on its eyeballs, its extremely long tongue can lick them clean. Geckos are mostly nocturnal and are thus rarely seen; however they’re sometimes heard. One of the few lizards with a voice, they can be heard calling on spring evenings--presumably for a mate.

The spade-foot toad, which uses its shovel-like hind feet to burrow in the sand, dwells on the east side of the dunes. These toads may hibernate 10 months, then emerge by the thousands after a rain to lay their eggs in shallow pools of water.

No trails cross the dunes. The best hiking is in the wilderness area north of California 78. Begin at the ranger station and hike north into the dunes or hike west into the dunes from Niland Road.

Directions to trail head: From Interstate 10 in Indio, exit on California 111. Head southeast past the Salton Sea to Brawley. Drive east on California 78 about 20 miles to the western edge of the dunes and the Cahuilla Ranger Station and Visitors Information Center. You can park at the visitors center, cross California 78 and walk north into the dunes.

To really get away from it all, continue east on California 78 six miles past the visitors center to the hamlet of Glamis. Turn left on unsigned Niland Road, the well-graded dirt road just west of the railroad tracks, and drive five or six miles. No developed parking exists; leave your vehicle in the sandy area between the road and the railroad tracks.

From Niland Road, you’ll walk 1 1/2 miles west to reach the main part of the dunes. Because few prominent landmarks (natural or built) exist in the area, pay attention to the route you take. It’s easy navigating toward the prominent dunes, but much more difficult finding your way back to your vehicle.

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Imperial Sand Dunes Where: Algodones National Natural Landmark, El Centro, Calif. Distance: 3 to 6 miles round trip. Terrain: 200- to 300- foot- high sand hills. Highlights: California’s most extensive dune system, spring wildflowers. Degree of Difficulty: Easy to moderate. Precautions: No trail; difficult to navigate back from dunes. For More Information: U.S. Bureau of Land Management, El Centro Resource Area, 1661 S. 4th St. , El Centro, Calif. 92243; tel. (619) 337- 4400.