Cook Your Greens

Greens are user-friendly vegetables. They cook quickly and they are extremely nutritious. Numerous varieties--common and exotic--are available in the market these days, and new ones appear all the time. Common ones include escarole, kale, dandelion greens, collards and broccoli rabe. The exotics include red and green chard, mizuna , tat-soi and Savoy spinach.

Some greens are considered “wellness foods.” These are foods that belong to a family of vegetables called crucifers-- specifically kale, mustard greens and collards (other vegetables such as broccoli and Brussels sprouts are also good sources). Cruciferous vegetables contain certain compounds called indoles that are believed to act as detoxifying agents, removing carcinogens from the body.

Greens are also rich in beta-carotene and Vitamin C, full of potassium, calcium, fiber and, in many cases, iron. Beta-carotene has also been mentioned in numerous medical studies as a cancer-controlling agent.

And cooks are fortunate. The fresh-produce network has become so well-organized in our country that we always have a good supply of fresh greens throughout the year, with the peak season being fall through spring.

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You need to use common sense when shopping for greens. Because of their perishable nature and inherent delicacy, it is painfully obvious when they are past the peak of freshness. Produce departments that regularly mist greens with water usually offer the best product.

When shopping for greens, look for a crisp, shiny appearance. Always buy greens with whole, untorn and fully formed leaves. Beware of small holes and dark blemishes, which can indicate insect infestation. Always check the cut stem end to see when the greens were trimmed and placed on the produce stand.

Leave the greens uncut until ready to cook, as they will keep longer. Although I recommend using fresh greens within three days of purchase, an effective way to store them is in a perforated plastic food bag.

Depending on the type of greens, trim away the tough stem end and discard any tough or discolored leaves. All greens, regardless of variety, should be well rinsed before cooking. Most greens are fairly delicate and should be handled gently.

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To rinse them, I usually fill a large bowl or clean sink with cold water and shake the leaves gently in the water to release the dirt, then I drain the leaves in a colander. With some greens, this process must be repeated several times. Do not soak greens for any length of time, or valuable water-soluble vitamins will be lost.

Even today, many people still overcook greens and flavor them with fatty ingredients such as bacon, fatback or ham hocks. That is the worst of all worlds: unhealthful inconvenience food. There are better ways of preparing them for those who want quick, healthful, tasty dishes.

In spite of their different characteristics, most greens can be treated the same way culinarily. To appreciate their delicate flavor, keep the recipe simple. Greens are delicious when merely “water-sauteed” (cooked just with the water left clinging to the leaves after rinsing). All those trying to avoid additional fat in their diet will appreciate this.

A popular way to prepare most greens is to add a small amount of extra-virgin olive oil to a hot saute pan. Add one sliced garlic clove and lightly brown with a sprinkling of hot red pepper flakes. As soon as the garlic browns, add the well-rinsed greens and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, three to five minutes in most cases. Finish with a splash of fresh lemon juice and a little salt to taste.

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The mild flavor of greens allows for a wide array of ethnic flavor influences. Adding a sprinkling of chili powder and chopped cilantro with a squeeze of lime instead of lemon achieves a Southwestern flavor. When you add some basil, mint and fish sauce, a Thai flavor is the result.

Greens create an elegant presentation. Entrees served over a bed of greens peeking out from under are attractive. Then again, greens add a rustic tone to soups, stews and soul-warming pasta preparations.

EMERALD SESAME GREENS

Although I normally use kale for this recipe because of its bright green color, any of the greens mentioned in this article will work. Greens prepared in this fashion are excellent served hot or chilled. If kale is used, rinse very well, as curly leaves easily trap fine particles of soil in small crevices around the edges.

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1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon minced ginger root

2 bunches kale, well rinsed and coarsely chopped

1/2 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce (low-sodium)

1/2 teaspoon each brown and black sesame seeds

1/4 teaspoon ground Sichuan peppercorns, or black pepper

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* Heat nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Add olive and sesame oils and heat. Add garlic and ginger root. Saute, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes.

* Add kale and continue to cook, adding sprinkle of water for moisture and to prevent burning. Continue to cook 5 to 7 minutes longer, stirring often, until kale is almost tender. Stir in tamari, sesame seeds and peppercorns.

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Makes 4 to 6 servings.

LIME-SEARED SCALLOPS OVER SAVOY SPINACH

This is my favorite scallop dish. The plump, white scallops nesting on a bed of bright green, barely cooked spinach is a visual delight and taste treat. If you cannot find scallops, shrimp are a good substitute. Although the savoy spinach is normally sold pre-cleaned, I recommend rinsing lightly before using.

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SCALLOPS AND MARINADE 1 teaspoon grated lime zest

2 teaspoons olive or canola oil

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon minced shallot

Freshly ground pepper

2 pounds sea scallops

Oil

Limes

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SPINACH

1/2 tablespoon virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 1/2 pounds savoy spinach leaves

Salt, pepper

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GARNISH

1/4 cup walnut pieces

1 teaspoon sugar

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SCALLOPS AND MARINADE

* Combine zest, oil, garlic, mustard, shallot and pepper to taste in bowl. Mix well. Add scallops. Marinate about 1 hour.

* Heat heavy-bottom cast-iron pan over moderate heat until fairly hot. Brush pan with small amount of oil. Remove scallops from marinade. Drain on paper towels.

* Add scallops gently to hot pan trying not to crowd. Do not move or stir as searing process will be more difficult. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, then turn scallops over and continue to brown other side, 2 to 3 minutes longer.

* When cooked through, deglaze pan by squeezing lime juice over scallops. Remove scallops and accumulated juices from pan and place in plate. Cover and keep warm.

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SPINACH

* Heat olive oil in heated pan. Add garlic and lightly brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately add spinach leaves and cook briefly, 2 to 3 minutes, until leaves are wilted. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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GARNISH

* Combine walnuts and sugar in dry nonstick pan. Cook, stirring, until shiny, golden brown and caramelized, 5 to 8 minutes. Reserve for garnish.

* Form sauteed spinach into nest on each plate. Place portion of cooked scallops on top. Spoon some of pan juices onto scallops and top with caramelized walnuts.

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Makes 4 to 6 servings.

GREENS WITH PENNE PASTA AND SPICY TOMATO BROTH

My green of choice in this rustic dish is broccoli rabe, but Swiss chard or tat-soi may be used. Penne rigati pasta or “little quills” are easy to eat and combine well with rabe; however, ziti, rigatoni or fusilli can also be used for this entree. The spicy tomato broth is an excellent outlet for vegetable trimmings. Almost any vegetable trimmings with the exception of cabbage, broccoli or cauliflower can be used for the broth. Because I enjoy spicy foods, extra chiles always end up in my broth base. If you prefer, the broth can also be prepared with chicken or fish bones. If desired, add some white miso paste as seasoning instead of salt. Miso, a soy product made from fermented bean paste, has a sweet, earthy and aromatic flavor. It is available in most natural-food stores and Asian groceries.

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BROTH

1 cup chopped onions

1 cup chopped tomatoes

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped carrot

1 cup tomato juice

Water

Sprigs of fresh thyme, rosemary, basil and oregano, or dashes dried herbs

Trimmings from any vegetables on hand, with exceptions noted above

1 fresh chile, halved (jalapeno or your favorite chile), or 1 teaspoon dried hot chile flakes

Salt, pepper

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PASTA AND VEGETABLES

1 bunch broccoli rabe, trimmed, ends discarded

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup sliced red onions

1 (16-ounce) can white cannelini beans, rinsed and drained, or fresh

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 pound penne pasta, cooked and drained

1/2 bunch basil, chopped coarsely

1/2 tablespoon black olive paste, optional

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BROTH

* Combine onions, tomatoes, celery and carrot in large saucepan. Add tomato juice and water to cover. Bring to boil. Immediately reduce to simmer. Slow simmer must be maintained, otherwise stock will be cloudy.

* Cook 1 hour, adding fresh herb sprigs, trimmings and chile during last 20 minutes of cooking. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Strain broth and reserve. Discard solids.

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PASTA AND VEGETABLES * In pot lightly steam or blanch broccoli rabe. Rinse with ice-cold water. Set aside.

* Heat large nonstick pan and add olive oil. Add onions and saute 3 to 4 minutes. Add broccoli rabe and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add beans, garlic and cooked pasta. Stir to combine. Add basil and olive paste and about 3/4 cups of spicy tomato broth.

Serve in large bowl, topping with some additional tomato broth.

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Makes 4 to 6 servings.

The Greens Stuff

Escarole: Typically thought of as a salad green, escarole has long, slender, loosely packed leaves that appear yellow toward the center of each head. Escarole is a traditional ingredient in many regional Italian stews and soups. You can achieve a pleasant, earthy and slightly bitter flavor by adding escarole toward the end of the cooking time.

Kale: This under-used green most often serves as a garnish, and many people just walk past bunches of fresh kale every day as they shop in markets. It has rounded, curly edged leaves of a frosted emerald-green color. Also called Scotch kale or Savoy salad, this green has an earthy flavor that resembles broccoli. Kale takes longer to cook and retains its distinct character better than many of the more delicate greens.

Dandelions: If I’d known about dandelions as food when I was a child, there would have been a lot fewer of them growing in my family’s yard. This familiar weed has bright-green leaves, toothed and strap-like in shape. The leaves should be harvested before the plant flowers. Dandelion greens may be eaten raw in salads--or made into wine. This plant has a characteristic bitter but pleasant flavor.

Collards: These, the classic “boiled greens” of traditional Southern cuisine, help ring in the New Year in many Southern homes. The plant is the tallest of the kale family, with large, flat, dark-green leaves. Collards are relatively mild in flavor and take on the flavoring of any ingredient they are coupled with. On their own, these greens taste much like spinach.

Broccoli rabe: Also known as raab and rapini , broccoli rabe is actually a member of the turnip family grown for its leaves. It resembles broccoli somewhat, having small, scattered florets and leafy green stalks--the stalks are crunchy and the florets are soft and almost creamy. The flavor, being both sweet and pleasantly bitter, arouses your taste buds.

Chard: This ancient member of the beet family is raised for its leaves, which are large, broad and fan-shaped. Green chard has a white rib running down the center and leaves that vary somewhat from light to dark-green. Red chard has a bright-red ribbing that resembles rhubarb. Because of its inherent tartness, chard (also known as Swiss chard) is often combined with sweet ingredients, such as dried fruit or honey, and is an excellent substitute for spinach in sautes, soups and stir-fries.

Mizuna: This green, relatively new to the market, comes from a Japanese mustard plant and actually has a mild mustard flavor. The leaves--narrow, angular and pointy--range in color from pale to yellow green. Young mizuna leaves are often incorporated into “mesclun” or baby mixed salad greens.

Tat-soi: Only the tender, young leaves of this Asian cabbage are harvested. They have a pleasant, mild bitterness that lends itself well to Asian foods. The tiny, rounded leaves are emerald green with a very thin, white ribbing, almost resembling baby chard. This green can often be purchased as part of a mixture called “Asian mix,” which contains other young greens such as mustard greens, baby kale, red Russian kale and beet greens that are delicious when cooked together.

Savoy spinach: The small, ruffled leaves of Savoy spinach appear to resemble a cross between spinach and Savoy cabbage. The color is dark-green, with almost no visible veins. The flavor is really unlike any spinach I have cooked before, because of the pleasant, spicy aftertaste. Savoy spinach can be eaten raw in salads. When cooked lightly, it makes an excellent bedding for grilled poultry, seafood or lamb.