Turkey Is Leaner, But Still Exotic

Turkey is still relatively easy for those on tight budgets. “It’s still possible for backpackers to travel on $15 to $20 per day,” says Tom Brosnahan, whose “Turkey: A Travel Survival Kit” (Lonely Planet, $19.95) is available through retail bookstores.

Turkey draws curious travelers who want to explore the excavations of Troy, the well-preserved classical city of Ephesus or the halls of Topkapi Palace, where sultans for three centuries would wander through their harems in silver-soled slippers.

Brosnahan was introduced to Turkey during a two-year term there as a U.S. Peace Corps volunteer. He learned to speak the language fluently and went on to an eight-year study of Middle Eastern history and the Ottoman Turkish language.

If you’re going to travel extensively, consider buying a map before you go. Brosnahan has discovered that “most of the maps sold in North America would serve travelers better than most of the maps sold in Turkey.”

He warns that it’s better to exchange your money every few days. “The Turkish lira does fluctuate, but it’s mostly down. I’ve stood behind people at exchange places where they’ll get off the boat and change $600 and have it for the whole trip . . . at the end they could get a lot more.” He also suggests using a bank or credit card in an ATM machine in major tourist areas or major cities.

One of the best aspects of travel in this area is the hospitality, although one may find the customs curious. There’s a standard Turkish hospitality for a visitor in a home. “In a village house you will take off your shoes and be given slippers. They’ll welcome you in and give you a place of honor in the living room and then everyone in the house will come in and shake your hand. Then, because you are a traveler and will have had a dusty trip, they will bring in some lemon cologne and splash some in your hands. You rub your hands and rub your face . . . then they’ll offer you candy, cigarettes and tea.”

One of the best bargains in the country, about $2 to $2.50 per 60 miles, is bus travel, and the hospitality has been extended to this service.

“Virtually everyone who comes back from Turkey raves about how friendly the Turks are.” Yet he concedes, “There are Turks who realize that Turkish hospitality is so open that it can be used as a lever to rip you off.”

A new scam involves visitors who have been set up by another foreigner (it can be an American or European, etc.) who shows them the city and buys them food and drinks over a few days. Eventually, if they express an interest in buying a carpet, their new friend suggests they go where he or she made a good purchase. The traveler spends, say $400, and arranges to have the carpet shipped. When they get home they find the carpet they’ve been sent is of lesser quality, worth about $150.