Fans of chunky peanut butter have no...

Fans of chunky peanut butter have no trouble finding what they want at the supermarket, but if it’s chunky-style applesauce you’re after, good luck.

Most companies make their applesauce as smooth as possible. And even if you can find a brand with the texture you like, it may not be prepared with the type of apples or degree of sweetness you prefer.

Make applesauce yourself, however, and you can control these aspects and add any spices you want, blend in other pureed fruits and omit preservatives.

Any cooking variety of apples makes good sauce: Granny Smith, Jonathan, McIntosh, Winesap, Cortland, Gravenstein. Each has a unique flavor, which will be imparted to the finished sauce.

If you shop at roadside stands or other places that sell local varieties, ask the proprietors’ advice on which make the best applesauce. Buy one apple of the type suggested and try it for flavor before investing in the two pounds you’ll need for a batch of sauce.

You may want to make only enough applesauce for one meal; if any is left over, it will store well in the refrigerator for a couple of days. It can also be frozen.

Once pared and cut, the apples should be cooked gently over low heat. Add a small amount of water to prevent them from sticking and keep the pan covered.

One reference book we checked claimed that applesauce texture--whether you get smooth or chunky--depends on when you add the sugar. Add it before the apples are cooked for chunky, after for smooth. We tested both methods but didn’t see any difference. The most important factors we found were the amount of cooking and implement used for mashing.

It’s hard to improve upon freshly made applesauce, served either warm or chilled, but you can vary the flavor by adding a little ground cinnamon, nutmeg or lemon juice. The applesauce may also be blended with apricot or seedless raspberry puree, crushed pineapple or cranberry sauce.

APPLESAUCE

6 medium cooking apples (about 2 pounds)

Water

Lemon juice

1/4 cup sugar, optional

Ground cinnamon or nutmeg, optional

Peel, core and cut apples into eighths. To prevent browning, drop pieces into 1 quart water combined with 1 tablespoon lemon juice.

Drain apples and place in 2-quart saucepan with sugar and 1/4 cup water.

Bring water to boil. Cover pan, reduce heat and cook, stirring occasionally, 15 to 20 minutes or until apples are tender.

Drain off excess liquid. Mash apples with fork or potato masher, press through food mill or process in blender or food processor, depending on consistency desired.

Or, to cook with microwave: Cut peeled and cored apples into 1-inch chunks. Place in 2-quart microwave-safe casserole. Add sugar and water. Cook on HIGH (100% power) 7 to 9 minutes or until tender, stirring once about halfway through cooking time. Drain off excess liquid and mash to desired consistency.

Season applesauce with lemon juice, cinnamon or nutmeg to taste. Serve warm or chilled.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

87 calories; 0 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 0 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams protein; 0.80 grams fiber.