MAINTENANCE : Covering Paint Flaws Before They Happen

Usually it’s the paint itself that gets the blame for paint problems on your home’s exterior. In most cases, the cause lies elsewhere. Here are some common problems and ways to prevent them.

Blistering is the earliest stage of peeling and is usually caused by moisture trapped under the new paint coat or by poor surface preparation. If it occurs within the first few weeks, it’s probably caused by trapped moisture.

While latex paint can usually be applied to damp surfaces without problem, alkyd and other oil-based paints form a moisture barrier that traps water inside. The water turns to vapor and forms blisters.

To avoid this, never paint with alkyds after rain, when the relative humidity is more than 85%, while dew is on the siding or too soon after you’ve washed the old surface. Also, never paint when the temperature is over 90.

If the blisters appear after a month or so, the problem is probably poor surface preparation. If you washed the surface with detergents, did you rinse completely? Unless such films are removed before painting, they can cause blistering.

Also, glossy surfaces must be given a light sanding so the new paint will grip well.

Peeling is the curling of large pieces of dried paint and is merely a later manifestation of blistering. Severe peeling may also indicate use of a poor primer or a heavy film of dirt, grease or dust. Prevention involves sanding or wiping the old finish with a deglossing liquid. Then follow the manufacturer’s directions as to what primer may be required before applying the top coat of paint.

Alligatoring is a cracking and flaking of the paint in a square pattern. It can result from applying paint over a previous coat that had a high gloss finish that was not sanded, use of the wrong primer or use of old paint, particularly paint that’s been stored in an unheated space and allowed to freeze.

To repair the condition, sand the surface smooth and apply the proper primer before applying a new top coat.

Checking is a series of long lines, with shorter check marks crossing between, usually caused by the wood underneath expanding and contracting. This can be a problem with exposed plywood siding regardless of the kind of paint used. Sanding and then applying a new coat of wood primer will usually solve the problem. But if the new paint shows signs of coming loose, complete removal of the old paint is required.

Wrinkling results in a crinkled surface that is caused by interfering with required drying time. Contributing factors are too-thick finish coat, buildup of too many layers, undercoat that was not completely dry, wrong solvent or improperly stirred paint. Repair by sanding smooth and applying proper primer before painting top coat.

Chalking or powdering characteristics are designed into some paints to keep the surface looking new. Chalking of old paint can interfere with proper bonding of a new coat, so scrub off as much as possible beforehand. In severe cases, you may have to apply a bonding primer or sealer.

Mildew manifests itself as patches of black spots. Though most exterior paints contain mildew-inhibiting ingredients, none work under all circumstances.

Remove mildew by washing down the affected area with a bleach solution. Use one-third cup powdered laundry detergent, two-thirds cup of household cleaner containing trisodium phosphate (not ammonia!) and one quart of household bleach.

Wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, gloves, goggles and a respirator or face mask to avoid breathing the fumes.

Stains that bleed through the paint are often the result of sap from knots in the wood seeping through the surface. But they can also be caused by rust from nails and hardware.

Many discolorations bleed through coat after coat of paint, so repainting alone is not the answer. Instead, apply a primary coat of stain-killer, such as pigmented shellac-base sealer, and then apply paint.