SPECIAL SKI ISSUE: California : Places to Slide and Glide Around the State

A great escape for the stressed-out, out-of-shape or out-of-patience is the stride-and-glide of cross-country skiing.

It’s a romantic, low-key world. You can marvel at the white-on-white of naked aspen trees looking like a Japanese brush painting, or feel the packed powder crunch like cornstarch underfoot, or sniff the wood smoke and watch warm steam rise from a hot pool like a whisper.

Cross-country skiing, easy enough for anyone to learn the basics in one day, is popular with fitness fans as a full aerobic workout. Budget-conscious families also like it better every year as they watch downhill lift tickets soar to $50 a day.

Here are some of the major California cross-country ski areas with groomed trails, equipment rental and instruction. At several, you’ll also find secluded mountain lodges in the forests of the High Sierra or a tiny log cabin in the snowy woods.

Sorensen’s Resort, Hope Valley: For pure whimsical charm, Sorensen’s, near the junction of California 88 and 89 in Alpine County south of Lake Tahoe, is one of our favorite year-round hideaways. The food is fresh, the supply of boutique beers and wines is bottomless, and the welcome is warm from owners John and Patty Brissenden.

The Hope Valley Cross-Country Ski Center at Sorensen’s, in its ninth season, can provide lessons and rentals for both skiers and snowshoers, 10 miles of groomed trails, 50 miles of marked trails and no trail fees. Rentals for skis, boots and polls range from $8 for kids to $16 for adults.

* Learn-to-Ski weekends are scheduled for Jan. 20 and 21 and Feb. 3 and 4.

* A back-country skills program taught by Ken LaRussa, who has skied 200 miles of the Sierra Crest Trail from Mt. Whitney to Yosemite, is set for Jan. 27 and 28 and Feb. 10 and 11 ($25 fee, half a day, in addition to rental costs).

* Family ski weekends, scheduled Feb. 24 and 25 and March 2 and 3, start for kids in a special area called Troll Tracks, with painted cutout Norwegian trolls spotted along the way.

* Wildlife ski tours are scheduled for Dec. 17, Jan. 7 and March 10 ($35, in addition to rentals). Some of Sorensen’s cluster of log cabins are rustic, some sophisticated. A hand-hewn replica of a 13th century Norwegian house that holds up to eight in sleeping bags shares billing with suite-like cabins and country cottages warmed by wood-burning stoves. Rates this winter range from $75 to $350 for units that house two to six people.

Reservations and information: telephone (800) 423-9949.

Royal Gorge, Soda Springs: North America’s largest cross-country ski resort is located off Interstate 80 near Donner Summit, just north of Lake Tahoe. To get to the Wilderness Lodge, you have two options--ride an open sleigh across the meadows and through the woods, or ski in.

Guests sleep in private rooms, dine on French cuisine by a big stone fireplace, simmer in a sauna and soak in a hot tub for prices beginning at $535 for an all-inclusive five-day, Sunday-to-Friday package. Rentals are $17.50 a day.

You can drive to Royal’s Rainbow Lodge, converted from a 1920s log-and-granite mountain lodge, which costs $79 to $109 a night for two, including full breakfast; the lower-priced rooms share bath facilities.

Skiers will find nearly 200 miles of groomed track and 88 trails: 28 for novices, 44 intermediate, 16 advanced. Adult and children’s ski schools, including a telemark clinic, operate daily; an all-day trail pass, 1 1/2-hour lesson and rental package costs $42 for adults, $25 for children.

Information: Royal Gorge Central Reservations; tel. (916) 426-3871 or (800) 500-3871.

Kirkwood Cross-Country Center, Kirkwood: One of California’s better downhill ski resorts is also an outstanding cross-country area. Kirkwood has a Cross Country Day Lodge with ski school and ski shop, as well as a rental shop that stocks both standard and telemark gear. Around 50 miles of groomed trails handle all levels of ability. Full- day trail passes are $14 for adults, $5 for children 7-12, and free to kids 6 and under. Seniors ski for $10. Equipment rental is $14 a day for adults, $8 for children; snowshoes rent for $12.

An adult beginner’s package with trail pass, lesson and equipment costs $30 for a full-day, $28 for a half a day; children pay $20 a full day, $17 a half a day. Private and family lessons, telemark instruction and skating lessons are also offered.

Condo, studio and hotel lodging are available at Kirkwood Village Center. The most convenient for cross-country skiers are the Edelweiss and Thimblewood condos adjacent to the Nordic trails; a one-bedroom unit sleeping up to four ranges from $165-$197.50 a night, depending on the season.

Kirkwood is west of the junction of California 88 and 89 south of Lake Tahoe, and can be reached from I-5 via California 88 from Stockton. It’s 90 minutes by car from the Reno Airport, 35 minutes from the Lake Tahoe Airport.

Information: Kirkwood Associates, P.O. Box 1, Kirkwood, CA 95646; tel. (209) 258-6000.

Diamond Peak, Incline Village, Nevada: On the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe at Incline Village, Diamond Peak has upgraded its cross-country program this year. With elevations of 8,500 to 9,200 feet, it promises superior snowpack and 35 miles of groomed track and skating lanes, many with sensational views of Lake Tahoe. The center is five miles above Incline Village on Nevada Highway 431, and operates from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.

A $32 First Time Beginner Package includes a 1 1/2-hour group lesson, full rental package and a full-day trail pass. If you already have equipment, the trail pass and lesson cost $22, the trail pass alone is $13 for adults, $8 for kids and seniors. People under 5 and over 70 ski free at all times. Information: tel. (702) 832-1177.

There’s plenty of lodging around Incline Village. The classic old Cal-Neva Resort, for instance, has rates from $69-$209, per person, double occupancy, depending on night of the week or the holiday season; tel. (800) 225-6382. Hyatt Regency Resort, charges from $99-$245, per person, double occupancy, depending on night of the week or the holiday season; tel. (800) 553-3288.

Montecito-Sequoia, Sequoia National Forest: This low-key family camp is in the Sequoia National Forest off highway 180 about halfway between General Grant Grove and Sequoia National Park. Montecito-Sequoia sits by its own lake, which freezes over in winter to allow ice skating. Besides 54 miles of private groomed cross-country trails at the 7,500-foot level, Montecito-Sequoia has access to the 8,000-foot Big Meadows area across the road.

It’s comfortable, if not fancy. Meals are served buffet-style in the big central lodge. There are 36 motel-type rooms with private baths that sleep two to six. Prices range from $71 to $114 per person, double occupancy, including meals.

Ski rentals are $16 a day for adults, $10 for kids up to 12; snowshoe rentals are $14. Information: tel. (800) 227-9900.

Other cross-country areas around Mammoth:

Tamarack Cross Country Ski Center: Provides 25 miles of groomed trails for track and skate-skiing through woods and meadows. There’s a rustic lodge with cabins and restaurant, lessons and rental equipment available; tel. (619) 934-2442.

Sierra Meadows Ranch: Provides groomed trails in a complete ski touring center, with rentals, instruction and restaurant at the site; tel. (619) 934-6161.

The U.S. Forest Service Cross Country Skiing and Snowmobiling Center: Maintains marked trails with blue diamonds for cross country skiers; there is terrain for all ability levels; tel. (619) 924-5500.

California’s Sno-Parks (operated by the State Department of Parks and Recreation): Offers 19 facilities in the state with Nordic skiing, snowmobiling and family snow play. For maps and more information: Sno-Park Program Manager, P.O. Box 942896, Sacramento, CA 94296; tel. (916) 653-8569.