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INSIDE & OUT : Installing New Door, Tile May Be Best Way to Take Care of a Leaking Shower

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Q. Our upstairs shower has a leak, and we’d like to learn how to locate the source, whether it’s a leaking pan, a hole in one of the pipes or if water is getting past the caulking or grout in the shower tile. Any ideas?

S.M., Fountain Valley

A. Finding the source of a leak in a shower is always difficult, says Scott Blanke of Central Plumbing & Heating in La Habra. One telltale sign is dark stains around the shower area that are visible through a vinyl floor. There could also be dampness or deterioration of the drywall outside the tile threshold into the shower stall.

In most cases, the leak is caused by a faulty shower door, cracked shower pan or water that is getting through the grout and into the floor.

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Since it’s an upstairs shower, you could cut a hole in the downstairs ceiling just below the shower and try to see if you can find the leak.

But in most cases, it’s best to redo the shower with a new pan, door and tile or a re-grouting of the tile. The problem with trying to replace or fix one thing is that often in older homes there’s not simply one source of the leak.

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Q. Since turning on my furnace when the nights have gotten cold, I’ve noticed that my windows fog up on the inside. What can be done to keep them clear?

F.F., Buena Park

A. As the temperature dips down, it’s normal to have some condensation on your standard pane window, since the warmer air inside is reacting to the cold glass surface, says Steve Guardamondo of College Glass & Mirror in Anaheim.

On more expensive double-paned windows, this doesn’t occur because a gap separates the inside pane from the cold outside pane. If the fogging is excessive, check for any cracks in the window insulation and correct them.

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Q. We’re planning on replacing the carpeting in our den with a wood floor, but I’m a little concerned about the large brick fireplace hearth we have in the corner of the room. I imagine we’ll be putting molding around the room, but how will we attach the molding to the brick?

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D.W., Westminster

A. You’re probably going to have to use some type of construction adhesive, says Eric Prochnow of House of Moulding in Santa Ana. The trick will be propping it up until the adhesive sets and dries. You can hold it in place until it sets and then try to keep it firm overnight with tape. Attaching molding to brick, however, isn’t always a great choice, since the mortar joints leave gaps that won’t give you a “clean” look.

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Q. When decorating our house last year for the holidays, we used about 10 strands of battery-powered miniature lights to decorate mantels, wreaths, etc., and it looked great, except the batteries wore out so quickly. Are there any kind of light sets out there that will last longer?

M.K., Huntington Beach

A. The battery-powered light sets are pretty much all the same, says electrician Dave England of Mission Viejo. Your best bet is to get some rechargeable batteries. They cost much more than standard alkalines, and you need to buy a recharging unit.

“However, I know from experience that you can go through a couple of C or AA batteries every eight hours using those types of lights. If you’re committed to using them, it might be worth the investment,” he says.

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Q. I’d like to paint my pine kitchen cabinets, and I know there’s a trick to covering dark knots, but I can’t remember what it is. Do you know?

N.E., Tustin

A. Use a shellac primer or an oil-based primer designed for covering up tough stains, says painter Greg Hull of Santa Ana. Using a simple latex primer generally won’t give you the right coverage, especially if you’re planning on painting the cabinets a light color.

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