Enjoying a Little Cabin Fever

Save for the sounds of whizzing traffic and bright lights outside, the Stir Crazy cafe on Melrose Avenue could easily be mistaken for a cozy cabin in the woods. Inside the painted log walls of the cafe, clusters of wood tables and shaker chairs are filled with patrons engaged in games of backgammon, chess and intense study. A Jacquard-patterned couch dominates Stir Crazy’s large single room; cushioned seats in front of the coffee house’s two bay windows create delicious nooks for sipping lattes and chatting.

If glaring, fast-paced establishments are the rule in Los Angeles, the relaxed, down-home atmosphere of Stir Crazy is a welcome exception for neighborhood regulars and visitors alike.

“I came here one night because I drink coffee a lot,” says 23-year-old Conrad Starr.

“I love it. The decor has an eye for the traditional. The first time I came here, I had to feel the walls to see what they were made of.”

The cafe was started by Dino Trucco and wife Tara Timpone two years ago. A native of Manhattan’s Greenwich Village, Trucco came to the West Coast with the intention of opening a cafe, but was initially discouraged by what he heard in business seminars. So he became a casino dealer instead, putting his dream on the back burner temporarily.

“It was tough for me to work in the casinos because I’m always playing,” Trucco explains in a thick New York accent. “So, I said, ‘Let me open up a business.’ ”

The site Trucco selected for Stir Crazy had been a coffee house in previous--and very different--incarnations, first as the Kickback and then as Java Man. “The whole place was white, black and Formica when I got it,” he says.

Trucco called in artist Michael Thomas to re-create the atmosphere of the space, putting an emphasis on the comfort of a home.

The faux log walls are complemented by work from local artists. Instead of a plain counter, an antique porcelain stove holds creamers and condiments.

The furniture is sturdy and traditional. The music, from early Sinatra to jazz, is gentle.

“I was surprised to find myself enjoying a Willie Nelson song once,” says a coffee-sipping patron. “There are some interesting musical mixes on the CD changer here.”

Interesting too are some of Stir Crazy’s beverage selections--from classic New York egg creams to cherry lime rickeys (cherry and lime juice over soda and ice) and a full range of coffees and teas. At the cafe’s main counter, a glass cooler displays sweet fare--cakes, strudels and pies. Hot sandwiches--goat cheese with red roasted peppers and basil on baguette and brie melted on a croissant--are prepared on site.

You won’t find poetry readings, performance artists or live music at Stir Crazy, but there is a wealth of magazines stacked on tables and in racks.

A television set, usually off, hangs benignly in the corner. It is turned on for important sports events. Will the TV be on for the Super Bowl?

“You bet,” says Trucco.

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Where: Stir Crazy, 6917 Melrose Ave. (213) 934-4656.

When: 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily.

Cost: Coffees, teas and other beverages, $1.25-$3.25; sandwiches, $4.25-$4.95; cakes and pastries, $2.75-$3.25.