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* * * Various artists, “MOM: Music for Our Mother Ocean,” Surf Dog/Interscope. Pearl Jam is the Big Kahuna of this benefit for clean waters, puncturing its serious image with an unadulterated novelty, the hyper-obscure ‘60s surf song “Gremmie Out of Control.” None of the other acts doing surf-related songs--from Brian Setzer to the Ramones to No Doubt--catches as cool a wave.
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