What distinguished wine lovers are drinking now

Angelo Gaja, wine producer, Barbaresco (Piedmont)

1993 Kistler Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley, Kistler Vineyard ($40)

"Kistler has produced consistently excellent Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs for a long time. The 1993 Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay, which I recently tasted, is a beautifully balanced wine with a very good structure. It has not only a complexity of body and richness but at the same time a very good acidity. It's not at all oaky. A touch of wood is there, but perfectly integrated in the wine. A very, very nice wine.

The 1994 Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay is in stores now; the 1995 will be released in March.

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