Best of the Birds

Conventional wisdom says that the Thanksgiving turkey is sacred. You stuff it and roast it, and you don’t do anything out of the ordinary with it. But when we put out the call last year for recipes that went beyond the basic bird, readers responded with numerous unusual and delicious turkey recipes that some of us have adopted for our own holiday tables. There’s a lot of creative cooking going on here in Southern California.

This year, to go with our collection of new reader side dish recipes (see H2), we decided to reprint some of our favorite reader turkey recipes. Proof that there’s more than one way to cook a big bird.

The Banana Wrap

Venice cookbook author Nancy Zaslavsky, coincidentally one of our side dish contributors this year, responded to our search with a recipe from the Yucatan, where turkey is as common as chicken. One of the most delicious ways of cooking turkey there is in a backyard pib or pit, smeared with seasoning paste and wrapped in banana leaves. Of course, a pit is not strictly necessary. We love the red tinge of the bird from the achiote paste and the tender meat that results from the banana-leaf wrap. The recipe is adapted from one Zaslavsky got from her friend Rosario Chavez, who is originally from Espita, Yucatan. Banana leaves, the herb epazote and achiote paste (made of annatto seeds and often sold in small blocks) are available in most Southern California Latino markets.

YUCATAN TURKEY PIBIL

1 cup achiote paste

1 tablespoon salt

1/2 cup lime juice (about 6 limes)

1/2 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons oil

1 (10-pound) turkey, giblets removed, thawed if frozen

2 large or 3 small banana leaves, center ribs torn away

Salt, pepper

3 large white onions, sliced

4 large tomatoes, sliced

3 sprigs fresh epazote or 6 sprigs cilantro

1 fresh habanero chile or 6 serrano chiles

Combine achiote paste, salt, lime juice, orange juice and oil in small bowl. Spread mixture over entire turkey. Line Dutch oven or roasting pan with banana leaves (leaves can hang over side), reserving enough to cover top.

Place turkey, breast-side up, over leaves. Spread sliced onions and tomatoes over top of turkey. Scatter epazote over top. Nestle chile on top of turkey. Cover turkey with more banana leaves, tucking them in to seal. Cover pan tightly with lid or foil. Roast at 325 degrees, basting often, until nicely browned and thermometer inserted into deepest part of thigh reads 175 degrees, about 15 minutes per pound.

Remove turkey from oven and let rest, uncovered, 15 to 30 minutes. Remove and discard banana leaves and chile. Place turkey on platter. Puree cooked onions and tomatoes with hand blender in cooking juices to thicken sauce.

Makes 10 servings.

Each serving contains about:

521 calories; 913 mg sodium; 171 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 56 grams protein; 0.86 gram fiber.

Proud Picadillo

Reader Julie Miranda of Sylmar sent us this picadillo-stuffed turkey recipe, which comes from “Rice and Beans and Tasty Things: A Cookbook” by Dora Romano. Some of the tasters liked the picadillo so much they completely ignored the turkey.

PICADILLO-STUFFED TURKEY PICADILLO STUFFING

PICADILLO STUFFING

1/4 cup oil

1 1/2 pounds lean ground pork

1 tablespoon salt

1 cup fine-chopped onion

6 pimiento-stuffed green olives

2 tablespoons capers, minced

1 (4-ounce) jar chopped pimentos with liquid

1/2 cup seedless raisins

2 cups applesauce

3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped

TURKEY

2 quarts water

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons vinegar

1 (12-pound) turkey

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup salt

Butter, softened

12 small cloves garlic, pureed

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons ground oregano

1/2 teaspoon poultry seasoning

1/4 cup olive oil

6 1/2 cups Picadillo Stuffing

Oil or melted butter

2 cups giblet stock or water

1 onion, chopped

PICADILLO STUFFING

Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown pork lightly and add salt. Remove to separate bowl and set aside.

Discard all but 1 tablespoon browning oil. Reduce heat to medium-low, add onion and saute 5 minutes.

Add olives, capers, pimentos and their liquid and cook 5 minutes.

Add raisins and reserved pork. Cook, uncovered, 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove pan from heat. Add applesauce and eggs. Mix well. Stuffing may be made day ahead. Refrigerate or freeze if not using immediately. Do not stuff turkey until just before roasting.

TURKEY

Combine 1 quart water with 1/2 cup vinegar. Rinse turkey in vinegar mixture, drain well and soak in remaining quart water mixed with lemon juice. Drain well and pat dry.

Loosen skin over turkey breast with fingers, starting at neck opening and moving toward tail. Be careful not to tear skin.

Rub salt into bird cavity, over skin and between skin and flesh. Put softened butter under skin covering breast.

Combine garlic, pepper, oregano, poultry seasoning and olive oil in bowl. Place bird in nonreactive container. Rub skin all over with garlic marinade and dribble with remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Next day, remove bird from refrigerator 1 hour before roasting. Just before roasting, stuff bird partly through neck opening with Picadillo Stuffing. Sew shut with cotton thread or secure with skewers. Stuff bird through tail 3/4 full to allow for expansion. Sew or skewer shut.

Truss bird. Rub turkey all over with oil or melted butter. Place turkey breast-side down on rack in roasting pan. Pour stock and chopped onion into pan.

Roast turkey at 325 degrees, basting often, until nicely browned and thermometer inserted into deepest part of thigh reads 175 degrees, about 15 minutes per pound. Halfway through, turn bird over and continue roasting. Remove from oven and let stand 30 minutes before carving.

Makes 12 to 15 servings.

Each of 12 servings contains about:

920 calories; 3,637 mg sodium; 361 mg cholesterol; 66 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 67 grams protein; 0.59 gram fiber.

Hot Tamale

This simple, clever recipe comes from Barbara Lee of Glendora. In effect, it’s a corn bread stuffing combined with a spicy sausage-type stuffing, and you don’t actually have to make either one. The drippings produce a particularly flavorful gravy.

TAMALE-STUFFED TURKEY

1 (10-pound) turkey

Salt, pepper

4 tamales, mild, hot or combination

CUMIN-GARLIC BUTTER

3 to 4 tablespoons butter

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

TAMALE-STUFFED TURKEY

Remove neck and giblets from turkey. Wash turkey well, then pat dry and season inside and out with salt and pepper.

Remove tamales from corn husk wrappers and break into several pieces. Insert into turkey cavity as stuffing.

Roast turkey at 325 degrees, basting often, until nicely browned and thermometer inserted into deepest part of thigh reads 180 degrees, about 15 minutes per pound. Every 30 minutes baste with Cumin-Garlic Butter.

When turkey is done, remove from oven and let rest 30 minutes before serving.

CUMIN-GARLIC BUTTER

Melt butter in small pan and remove from heat. Crush garlic into butter. Stir in salt and cumin.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Each of 10 servings contains about:

745 calories; 1,205 mg sodium; 240 mg cholesterol; 42 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 61 grams protein; 2.85 grams fiber.

In a Garlic Haze

This recipe from Los Angeles’ Jan Ricca was one of the staff’s favorites, particularly because of the roasted onions and garlic. Think of the famous French dish of chicken with 40 cloves of garlic and then multiply it to turkey-size. You’ll be grateful you got a big bird. That’s no coincidence. Ricca says the recipe came about when she “defrosted a bird I had bought at Easter and had some friends over. I did something I had only done with chickens before--but on a larger scale. The results were fabulous. The skin was nice and dark and was eaten before the bird even made it over to the table.”

ROAST TURKEY WITH GARLIC, MAUI ONIONS AND LEMONS

1 (14- to 15-pound) turkey

Salt, pepper

5 to 6 Maui onions, cut into large chunks

6 heads garlic, separated into cloves but not peeled

2 large bunches fresh rosemary

5 to 6 lemons, cut in half

1/4 cup butter, softened

1/4 cup olive oil

Remove neck and giblets from turkey. Wash turkey well, then pat dry and season inside and out with salt and pepper.

Fill body cavity with 4 onions, 5 heads garlic, 1 1/2 bunches rosemary, 4 lemons and salt and pepper.

Place turkey in roasting pan, truss legs and surround with remaining onions, garlic, rosemary and lemons. Rub turkey with butter and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle olive oil over vegetables in pan and season with salt and pepper. Roast turkey at 325 degrees, basting often, until nicely browned and thermometer inserted into deepest part of thigh reads 175 degrees, 15 minutes per pound.

Makes 14 to 16 servings.

Each of 14 servings contains about:

514 calories; 243 mg sodium; 202 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 56 grams protein; 0.64 gram fiber.

Big Red

You wouldn’t want to call turkey bland, but it does have a flavor that adapts well to different ingredients. Times Test Kitchen assistant Mayi Brady was in an Indian mood when she created this turkey recipe. The real trick is drizzling the bird with a little lime juice before serving. It’s great when served with a garlicky raita of yogurt and cucumbers.

BIG RED TURKEY

BASMATI AND LENTIL STUFFING

1 onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup lentils

1 cup basmati rice

3 cups water

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup chopped pistachios

TANDOORI TURKEY

1 (12-pound) turkey

Salt and pepper

3/4 cup bottled tandoori paste

3/4 cup plain yogurt

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon chili powder

4 cloves garlic, minced

BASMATI AND LENTIL STUFFING

In skillet, cook onion and garlic in butter until soft. Add cumin, turmeric, coriander and salt. Cook another 5 minutes and set aside.

Cook lentils and rice in water 15 minutes. Add onion-garlic mixture to rice and lentils and cook 10 more minutes. Stir in raisins and pistachios. Set aside to cool. Use to stuff body cavity and neck cavity of bird.

TANDOORI TURKEY

Remove neck and giblets from turkey. Wash turkey well, then pat dry and season inside and out with salt and pepper.

Spoon stuffing into turkey neck and body cavities. In large mixing bowl, combine tandoori paste, yogurt, cumin, chili powder and garlic until smooth. Spread 1/4 of mixture under turkey skin, then spread remainder over turkey, saving little to baste turkey with.

Place on roasting rack in pan and roast at 325 degrees, basting often, until nicely browned and thermometer inserted into deepest part of thigh reads 175 degrees, about 15 minutes per pound.

Makes 12 to 14 servings.

Each of 12 servings contains about:

630 calories; 1,030 mg sodium; 200 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 63 grams protein; 2.22 grams fiber.